[J.Elenbaas]

Roboman, remember in case off you also have a handbrake...although not as good as the normal brakes.

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[Roboman]

Roboman, remember in case off you also have a handbrake...although not as good as the normal brakes.

And I've been meaning to ask about that ..... Often I read e-brake, is that what is also known as hand brake?

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[Kim]

an e-brake is a mechanical brake that is actuated by an electrical current, typically by pulling a small switch. An on or off thing. Does the same thing as the hand brake  in terms of keeping the car still when parked. Purists probably don't like them.

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[Roboman]

Thanks Kim, so this must be a feature on the tip and/or auto models, as it's not on my 6-speed?

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[Waylander]

Its a bit of a strange one


Electric hand brakes are a thing of cars post 2000, the hand brake gets referred to by some countries as an E brake, ( emergency brake) mechanical type


The 924-968 are notorious for rubbish mechanical rear drum parking brakes, every year it gets a mention at test time


My 2008 Audi had a normal handbrake, my 2013 A4 has an electric hand brake


In America no one uses a handbrake, they just stick it in park


The big issue with electric handbrake is, no women pulling handbrake turns, have to come up with a new winner now

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[Kim]

not on any 968. All have hand brakes.

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[Waylander]

I have heard more than once, the normal 968 handbrake referred to an e-brake, where do these stupid terminology things come from


Might be because some of Bubbas trucks have foot handbrakes must be a step to far for some

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[ds968]

You guys are too young     and in tune with the times where E seemingly must translate to electronic something or another ..

The 968 has an  E(mergency)-brake , aka , a hand brake .  :unsure:

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[Waylander]

Whats too young?

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[ds968]

Haha, not sure,  just a tongue in cheek comment about the everything is electronic era, and the bygone analog, and mechanically operated systems era .. 

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[Roboman]

OKAY E-mergency! Never heard it called that, one must really be in trouble, last resort I guess Come to think of it I have used that brake in an emergency, but I was the passenger

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[ds968]

Off on a tangent for this master cylinder thread’s main topic, but those of you who might have taken driving courses, part of which included evasive maneuvers in an emergency, will know how the hand brake is used when putting the car in reverse and then making it face in a 180 degree direction so you can drive it forward out of there .. James Bond-ish move,  but it’s a fun maneuver to practice .  So for me E-brake will always stand for “emergency” , or. “ “evasive” utilization  B)

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[Waylander]

Good luck trying that in a 968

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[J.Elenbaas]

Even with the electronic handbrake you can make the woman pulling handbrake turn, at least in the VW Golf i use as daily driver.

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[ds968]

I recall reading here ( and also “ Flash “ talking about it  ) that our 968s handbrakes have a weak point , I believe it’s associated with the spring of the brake shoes which has a tendency to break and then you’re stuck, having to get the car up, and take apart the assembly to get it going again.  So since then I’ve been paranoid about using that hand brake, and haven’t even once for more than ten years , I just leave the car in gear when I park it .   So definitely not trying any crazy maneuvers with that “ e-brake”  :wacko:

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[Roboman]

Back to topic, regarding blanking off the extra port on the brake MC ..... need torque suggestions ..... and others may well need this in the future ....

 

The bleed nipple I ordered has gone AWOL in the post, so I've decided to use an M10x1 blanking plug instead and to keep the bleed nipple (if it ever arrives) as a spare for "whenever".  I have an unused M10 copper "squash washer" so should be able to create a good seal.

 

With a bleed nipple the standard approach is "nip tight" and then one flat more to securely push the holes onto the tapered base of the hole.  Should I take the same approach with the blanking plug, where that extra flat squashes the copper washer, or is there some sort of standard torque for M10x1 into aluminium??

 

I have the old MC so I can practice torque settings with an ordinary washer, and I can use the torque settings for the M10 head bolts as a guide, but I'm hoping someone has a definitive number because that extra "flat turn" is for a steel nipple into a steel caliper, and not for a steel nut into the body of the MC .....  torque settings anyone?

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[J.Elenbaas]

Roboman,

 

I think i would just make it handtight with a short spanner, otherwise maybe start at a torque of 10 or 15 Nm.

It probably can have more, but since the copper washer will make the seal you don't want it to get over stretched (pushed out) too.

 

You can always use some Loctite 243 or something similar on the threat as extra precausion.

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[Velocity]

I recall reading here ( and also “ Flash “ talking about it  ) that our 968s handbrakes have a weak point , I believe it’s associated with the spring of the brake shoes which has a tendency to break and then you’re stuck, having to get the car up, and take apart the assembly to get it going again.  So since then I’ve been paranoid about using that hand brake, and haven’t even once for more than ten years , I just leave the car in gear when I park it .   So definitely not trying any crazy maneuvers with that “ e-brake”  :wacko:

 

 

I can confirm the spring on the rear "ebrake" assembly can and does fail - although in my specific case, the car was still drivable.   See Squealing at low speeds - What is that noise? - 968 Forums for details.    I definitely never used the "evasive" method of the hand brake in my 968, although who knows what the prior owners may have done over the years.

 

I'd never heard the term "electronic brake" and always had a manual one (some hand operated, some foot operated) until my 2016 Cayenne - it does have the "electronic" brake switch.    

 

It's always been the "emergency" brake (or even "parking brake") to me.

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[Roboman]

Still struggling with this one, though I've had a few days doing other stuff so it's not been a consistent effort.


The bleed nipple arrived so I decided to use it along with lock tight, so that was straightforward. I back filled the brake lines and primed the MC so the brakes are good enough to get me to the garage to have the SS lines installed and the bleeding done properly.


The clutch is a different matter if I jack up the front I can reach the bleed nipple but the clutch fluid pipe from the reservoir is too high, if I jack up the back the fluid pipe is okay but I cannot reach the bleed nipple ..... Oh for a 2-post lift!


So today I may try reverse pumping (thanks for that idea Waylander) I've never done that before so may well try it just for novelty, and if that doesn't work then I'll drop off the slave. I suspect it is air trapped in the slave that is the main issue. Like I said, oh for a 2-post!

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[Waylander]

I used a Big Syringe 50ML one and the bleed hose, just go steady,

 

the LHD cars are connected to the brake master cylinder for fluid feed, so make sure you have space in there, if it over fills while you are under the car you might get wet!

 

RHD cars have their own fluid tank for the clutch, thats why the fluid never gets changed and the slave rots from the inside out.

 

like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Syringe...121&sr=8-9

 

did not pay anything like those prices, got it from my local chemist shop, and 50 ML is plenty to back flush the clutch, the whole braking system only has 700ML in it

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