[Roboman]

Thanks again Waylander ..... everything I can search out points to 944 355 023 11 as the (ATE 300083) booster for my 968

 

Unfortunately the sticker on my booster indicates 951 355 025 14 which on some sites suggests 944 Turbo, but when I put it into PelicanParts it's a no-no.

 

So now I'm faced with if it is 025-14, what is the correct master cylinder??  Or do I get the ATE300083, and if the MC doesn't fit then I change that too; at least then my car will be correct again instead of some 944/968 hybrid (forget my cruise control, they are all the same parts for both except for the mounting, and are easy (!) to take off if necessary)

 

If you have some database that can sort some numbers out I'd be very happy.

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[Waylander]

ok so the 951 number is a complete bust, not listed for any porsche at all, and i can search them all.

 

the 944 355 023 11 was used on

924S, 944 Early, 9442 85-88, 9442 89-91, and 968

 

there is no distinction for LHD or RHD they use the same part.

 

I have just looked through every 944 and 944S2 and they are all the same part except the few that had Girling Servos, 944 355 023 10

 

so what that servo is from is a mystery,

 

I can check out the part number with Porsche UK if you like, might not be till monday, but i would assume the servo I linked to will fit, as I would doubt the master cylinder has been changed

 

ok so with a bit of research, the Girling one was used on a few cars, but the physical dimensions should be the same, and as there is no girling master cylinder listed then you should be good to go, on checking further, all cars that had Girling Brakes, the master cylinder has been superseeded by the ATE one, not requiring a servo change

 

so its just a name on the label,

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[Roboman]

Brilliant! I shall get the 023 11, and if for some reason the MC is different then I get the ATE MC too, no worries at least everything will be matching again. What can I say? Spectacular work Sherlock, we'll need to change your avatar


Many thanks,


Robert

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[MCL968]

Brilliant! I shall get the 023 11, and if for some reason the MC is different then I get the ATE MC too, no worries at least everything will be matching again. What can I say? Spectacular work Sherlock, we'll need to change your avatar


Many thanks,


Robert

Martin is "The Man" when it comes to this stuff. If he doesn't already know it (which is rare) he knows where to find it.

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[Roboman]

Certainly is! As I said, new avatar needed .......

 

   

 

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[Roboman]

G,day Martin et al, this is a pretty short thread with only a couple of posts prior to my revival on Aug 7th 2020. So I think it is worth me continuing to ask questions/clarification as most of us have 25 year old brake boosters which may well require changing in the non-too-distant future. So this could be a good reference......

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[Roboman]

An earlier post by jjvflihy (Jan 2008) indicated it was possible to remove the booster without removing the inlet manifold .... 

 

HAS ANYONE MANAGED TO DO THIS???

 

Granted the next post by Rutger said he needed to demount the inlet, but his firewall was deformed and needed welding, so that may have been the reason why there was not enough space.  So, anyone done this job without removing the inlet manifold?

 

And if not, is it a matter of lifting the manifold up on its studs to permit the extraction of the booster, or does the manifold (with fuel rail attached) need to be completely removed??

 

Cheers all.

 

Oh, and to you guys in California suffering the wild fires, I wish you and yours all the best. 

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[Waylander]

Yes right off, you will need to replace the gasket anyway after disturbing it all

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[Roboman]

Ugh! Easy job turns into difficult one   thanks for the warning ......

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[Waylander]

Oh and don’t drop anything down the holes, might be a bit difficult to recover anything from the piston crown

 

a word of advice, insert Allen bit in the top of the bolt on and extension, then give the end of the extension a couple of solid whacks with a hammer before undoing, to break the heat lock on the bolts, you really do not need to snap one 

 

I don’t use Allen keys as such, I have snap-on 3/8 drive Allen Bits, just sooo much better, owned them 40 years and they still work like they are brand new

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[Roboman]

Okay, thanks, "petit a petit", as they say here. I've ordered the booster and inlet gasket, just need the MC seal and firewall gasket...

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[Roboman]

I've seen various threads on various forums/sites, some indicating one must remove the the manifold and others say not necessary. So I shall initially remove the driver's seat and see if it is possible for me to remove the booster without removing the manifold. It certainly looks tight so I'm not hopeful, but there's no harm or waste of effort in trying, so why not?

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[Roboman]

Brake booster and inlet manifold removal ......

 

I have to say that contrary to any advice indicating the booster can be removed without removing the inlet manifold ..... I don't believe it is so.  And even if you can by heaving and bending, putting the new one back in will be impossible.

 

In addition to the job in hand, removing the intake manifold is not difficult and gives a great view of what is going on with the left side on the engine.  A number of inexpensive O-rings and gaskets can be replaced, the alternator/starter harness inspected etc etc. suddenly there is space to work!

 

So make the decision early .... remove the manifold with fuel rail attached.  Don't waste time fiddling around, trying to lever the booster around the various tubes and cables, in the end the job will be easier and by renewing some of those O-rings etc you will save time in the long run.

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