[Kaj Hallstrom]

Starting this little project this winter. I have replaced brake pads in the past. Maybe 25 years ago or so. Thought I would save myself some money by doing it myself. The pads arrived a few days ago (thanks Matt) and I am prepping myself for the job. Yes, I watched you tube videos, listened to advise. Today I cleaned up the pads and I am ready to go. Will keep you updated on my experience.

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[flash]

first off, do not just replace the brake pads.  replace, or at a minimum make sure you surface the rotors.  brake pads leave behind deposits on the rotors.  unless you use exactly the same chemical makeup of the pads (same brand - same model) AND you get lucky, you will result in judder and vibration, and possibly "skipping".  then you get to do it all over again, including tossing and buying all over again your new brake pads.

 

further, these rotors are one surfacing from minimum thickness when new.  if there is any "ridge" on the edge of the rotor, they are done.

 

see the stoptech website on this.  it does a very good job of explaining this

 

also, when done, make sure you bleed the system, using the motive power bleeder.  if the system has not been flushed in the last 3 years, do it.

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[Spokayman]

Hi Kaj,

I just finished doing pads and rotors on my 968 myself.

My last experience had been on a 996 a few years back, and I found the 968 to be very similar, perhaps just a small degree more difficult.

YouTube videos were very helpful along with Clark’s and other sites.

I failed to take very many photos of the process as I went along. Maybe you can post some?

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[Waylander]

Do a nice how to and I will host it

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[flash]

the DIY library (where this thread was originally posted) is a great spot here for such things too.  this thread has been moved to the technical discussion area.  once the DIY is written, it can go up into the DIY Library

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

Stuck for now. Unable to remove lug nuts......any help out there?

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[MCL968]

Longer breaker bar and an impact socket.

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[flash]

you are going to need a torque wrench too.

 

are you sure you want to do this?  it doesn't sound like you are really set up for it.  i'm all for guys doing their own work, but doing it without the proper tools is a very bad idea.

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[az968]

You'll need to check the rotors, as Flash mentioned, to make sure they aren't too worn. When I did brakes last year I replaced the rotors as well as the pads. You'll also want to look at the brake lines, they are probably original and now 25 years old. You can't tell visually but they deteriorate internally. Probably should replace them, not expensive and replacement is pretty straightforward. There's a special wrench you can pick up at the parts store, a flare wrench, to loosen the lines. I installed SS lines, just need to make sure they are DOT approved for street. Much better feel than rubber lines.


The brake wear sensors might need to be replaced at the same time, inexpensive and just plug in. Again, probably 25 years old.


Surprised you can't get the lug nuts loose, they should be at 94 ft lbs. So a breaker bar, maybe with an extension for leverage. But, an impact gun might make it easier. Just don't install lug nuts with a gun, have to be hand tightened.


Take your time, don't rush anything. I replaced the caliper pins and bolts, not expensive and I like to use new parts when reinstalling parts.


Brakes are sorta important so must be done right.

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

For starters I am just going to get the wheels off for a complete inspection of the brake area. Nothing will be rushed. The rotor and lines thoroughly inspected. I do have the brake pads and a set of sensors. Again there might be more I have to so sit tight for my next report........oh yes, I will need to flush the system after. That will be an outside job.

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[ds968]

Brakes are for wimps, anyone with a manual shift car should never use the brakes except to come to a full stop from 5 mph to 0 mph. IMHO.

;-) :-)

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[Cloud9...68]

Brakes are for wimps, anyone with a manual shift car should never use the brakes except to come to a full stop from 5 mph to 0 mph. IMHO.

;-) :-)

Yes, clutches are SO much easier and cheaper to replace than brakes, lol

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[ds968]

Yes, clutches are SO much easier and cheaper to replace than brakes, lol

Dang it, I knew someone would say that , lol. :-) ;-) . But seriously, I downshift so regularly / frequently to slow down the car instead of using the brakes, it's shocking to me that I haven't destroyed the clutch yet ( 120,000 miles so far on it ) . And no doubt why my brakes last for what seems like an eternity ..

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[flash]

brakes are arguably the single most important job on a car.  they are all that prevent you from crashing.  air bubbles are dangerous.  contamination in the lines is bad.  while most owners can do this job themselves, you have to have the right tools and such.

 

a visual inspection of the brake lines will likely show nothing  they fail from the inside out.  by the time you see any damage or wear on the outside, they are already long overdue for changing.

 

if you see any "bluing" grooves, or wear on the rotors, replace them.  if there is no bluing, and only minimal grooving or wear (less than 0.4mm) you may be able to surface them.

 

i cannot stress this enough, but if you are installing different pads than what the rotors have already been mated to, you will also need to replace the rotors.  the chemical bonding that occurs between pads and rotors is an immutable process.  mixing pads of one type with rotors that have had other pads used on them, frequently results in judder, vibration, and/or skipping.

 

do not drive the car before bleeding the brakes.  this can mess up the ABS, and cause you to go through a much more difficult process, and even could cause dangerous uneven braking.

 

if you do not have a motive power bleeder, get one.  tools are everything on this job.  you will need:

 

breaker bar or impact gun to remove the lugs

thin wall impact socket

torque wrench to reinstall the lugs to 96 lb/ft - do not do this by hand or feel

motive power bleeder

at least a liter of brake fluid

can of brakleen

a handful of shop rags

length of hose to go from bleed screw to waste can/bottle

fitting wrench or combination wrench for bleed screw

 

if you have to change brake lines, you will also need fitting wrenches, or at least a good set of combination wrenches.

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[Waylander]

Other than that get someone who knows what they are doing to lend you some experience and a hand


Or better still book it in somewhere,

 

I am not trying to be rude but with brakes its not just your own life thats in the balance, its who else you mow down when you cant stop.

 

So far the description of the works is a little worrying

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

Brake project is on hold over Christmas. I might have to replace rotors as well......To be continued.

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[az968]

Maybe Santa will bring you some new rotors and SS brake lines. Be nice, not naughty :-)


Or be very naughty :-)

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

Anyone can be nice........that's no fun.

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[Cloud9...68]

Dang it, I knew someone would say that , lol. :-) ;-) . But seriously, I downshift so regularly / frequently to slow down the car instead of using the brakes, it's shocking to me that I haven't destroyed the clutch yet ( 120,000 miles so far on it ) . And no doubt why my brakes last for what seems like an eternity ..

Wow, if you're actually using the process of downshifting to slow you down, I'm amazed you haven't fried your clutch years ago.  I don't want to sound preachy, because this is totally up to you, but downshifting of course only slows the car down via the rear wheels, and as such isn't all that effective. Although for street driving, given plenty of time to plan your stop, I suppose it does the job.  I would recommend you learn to heal-and-tow downshift, if you haven't already - once you get the hang of it, it's a fun, satisfying, and very involving process.  It takes the load of slowing the car off of your clutch, transferring it to the brakes.  But hey, if your method has kept your clutch alive for 120K miles, who am I to recommend any changes, lol?

 

Speaking of brakes, and I say this somewhat tongue in cheek, and of course recognize how vitally important they are, but after driving for 43 years, the number of "panic stops" I've made from any significant speed comes to a grand total of, uh, zero.  Of course, it only takes once.  I had a Fiat 850 for a short time when I was a teenager, and one day, the charging system died.  I was about five miles from home, and knew I couldn't use anything that would consume any electricity, since I was on battery power only.  That of course included the brake lights, so I made it the entire way, on suburban streets, through traffic lights, without once touching the brakes.

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[ds968]

I never used the downshifting method to save the brakes, I'm using it simply because I think it's a lot of of fun doing that. That's how I drove my 944s and the clutch lasted over 200 K miles in that one. More like 220 K miles, IIRC, when I sold the car. I'm also doing the same thing with my Maserati, although that's a paddle shift so maybe a different wear and tear on components since there is no clutch pedal to push .


As for changing rotors every time you change pads because of a " bonding " process between the two , I call b.s.. That's just an extreme philosophy and unnecessary practice. After 45 + years of driving more cars than I can count, I have never changed rotors any more frequently than with the second set of pads replacements, and more often than not the third set of pads change.. Also never experienced any vibration, skipping, noisy brakes or anything of the sort . Having said that, I have always used OE pads with the same composite, so maybe that's what makes a difference in how the friction and bonding between rotors and pads works out ; different aftermarket pads may be an upgrade but could wear out the rotors at a quicker rate . Otherwise, the rotors only need to be changed when the thickness measures near or at their minimum, or if they're warped , or the lip and grooves are fairly pronounced. I just replaced the front rotors on my MBZ last month, for the first time, at just about 185 K miles. The shop said the rear rotors are still fine, and will last at least another set of pads which they put on also.

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