[Roboman]

Thanks for the advice Waylander but in the end I decided to drop the slave cylinder, my reasoning being I felt the angle of the slave was probably trapping air and so I needed to get the bleed nipple as the highest point. Instant progress. Previously I couldn't get the pedal to return property even though the system appeared bubble free. As soon as I tipped the slave and pumped again a flood of bubbles appeared. So now the clutch pedal returns easily and sits at the same height as the brake. My only comment on removing the slave cylinder is that it was unbelievably difficult loosening the top nut ... either I could get on it with a spanner, but no space to turn, or the access from behind was blocked by the slave casting. Fortunately I have a socket spanner with articulating head so I came at from the front with the socket bent at 180', else I would have found the job impossible.

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[Waylander]

think I did suggest to you on whatsapp to remove the slave and rotate it so you could get the air out, bleeding the clutch on our cars is a royal pain

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[Roboman]

think I did suggest to you on whatsapp to remove the slave and rotate it so you could get the air out, bleeding the clutch on our cars is a royal pain

 Yes you did, thanks, as well as suggesting reverse bleeding.  I must admit the appeal of reverse bleeding was really strong .... good to do things that go against the norm, but in this case I went with plan B ... drop the slave cylinder; worked a treat once it was loosened off.

 

NB to anyone tackling this job ..... I recommend tools that I don't have ..... knuckle sockets .... I'll let Waylander fill in the details ... but they will let you get onto the top slave cylinder nut, which for me and my amateur tool kit was truly painful.

 

Note to self: buy some knuckle sockets soon!!!

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[J.Elenbaas]

Birthday present, or else christmas if that comes sooner 

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[ds968]

Sounds like “bleeding” takes on two different meanings associated with this job.. 

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[Waylander]

Not wrong there DS, it can be a real pain

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[Roboman]

Sounds like bleeding takes on two different meanings associated with this job..

Certainly, unlike bleeding the brakes, the clutch bleeding process is not a challenge on your own, the challenge was dealing with the position and design of loosening off the slave cylinder. "This tool should fit .... nope, maybe this ... nope, maybe this combination .... nope, nope, NOPE, etc etc" you get the picture and when you don't have a lift you cannot just bend down and pick up another tool, so each iteration required scrabbling out and back under the car.


Enough of my bleating, I was working in the dry and with no pressure to get the job done, so no worries.


   


For anyone planning on doing this job you can see that the cast for the fluid line nicely lines up with the hole for the top nut, so obstructing access. Also the slave itself is wedged in between the clutch bell housing and transmission tunnel giving no space to swing a spanner. The best tool is something that approaches at an angle and then straightens onto the nut at the last inch or so ... and so knuckle sockets were born!


Jack, if you send me a set of knuckle sockets for my birthday I shall be very grateful , though seriously, I plan on doing the slave and rubber fluid line, so knuckle sockets will be my next purchase; better late than never.

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[J.Elenbaas]

Roboman, i will see what i can find on Ali E.

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[Roboman]

No worries Jack I ordered a set yesterday 5mm to 15mm, can't wait to try them out.


Do we have a section on "must have tools" for 968 repairs

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[Waylander]

Please don’t buy tools from Ali express, they are cheap for a reason, if you wish to hurt your hands possibly badly go ahead

 

the cheapest tools I will use are Lazer or Silverline, the rest of mine are of better quality 

having smashed my hands more than once many years ago, then the pain of rounded off nuts and bolts

 

buy quality, buy once

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[J.Elenbaas]

I was only joking to Roboman, but as a present it could do okay. . hahaha.

Actually i only buy well known german tools for myself, so no worries there Waylander 

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[MCL968]

Please don’t buy tools from Ali express, they are cheap for a reason, if you wish to hurt your hands possibly badly go ahead

 

the cheapest tools I will use are Lazer or Silverline, the rest of mine are of better quality 

having smashed my hands more than once many years ago, then the pain of rounded off nuts and bolts

 

buy quality, buy once

We have Harbor Freight here that sells stuff that will make your hands bleed. I admit, I have some tools from there, but they are in my bike toolbox where the tools don't get the same kind of abuse. I rarely bust a socket working on a road or mountain bike, but I have trashed lots of cheap sockets working on cars.

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[Waylander]

I have a lot of 40 year old snap-on tools, from my days as a full time motor technician

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[Roboman]

The saga continues, nearly there but not quite.

 

I took my car to the garage to get it up in the are, swap over the brake lines for stainless ones, and to bleed the system.

 

So the SS hoses were not correct; the label said "non-sports chassis", which is me, but the nut end was too short .... so they need to go back.

 

   

 

I was also unhappy with the bleeding process (no pun intended) he seemed to be going short to long instead of vice verse, and also just jettisoned the fluid onto the garage floor so was unable so see if there were bubbles in the fluid.

 

So not a great success.  I had a good look around so now think I have a small leak from the sump, but nothing to worry about as I have seen no spots on my garage floor, and of course it was far easier to reattach the bat wing etc.

 

QUESTIONS ... I'm going to bleed the brakes myself, but it's a while since I've done it so just want some confirmation .....

 

1. The brake system is essentially in two parts, so I should be able to do each axel separately ... true?? (I only have two axel stands)

2. The twin bleed nipples on each calliper ..... bleed them separately or at the same time??

 

Thanks,  Robert

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[Waylander]

You start at the furthest from the master cylinder, this is where a gunson ezibleed comes in handy,

 

so from the rear of the car,  RH rear Inner-outer, LH Rear Inner-Outer, RH Front Inner-Outer, LH Inner-Outer,

 

don't run the tank dry or you will have to do it all again, and not sure what hoses you got but our forum owner in the UK is a Goodridge Dealer, so we get a discount

 

I try to use different coloured brake fluid so I now when its pumped right through.

 

I think the whole system is a about 70-80CL capacity

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[Roboman]

Okay so long to short, axel by axel, and one nipple at a time, all good thanks Waylander. I thought this was common knowledge and then someone who should know better does it the opposite way around .... sort of bizarre, so it makes one question?


I'm going to look this up for myself tomorrow, but for forum information about different colors ..... is dot4 a different colour to 5.1 or are there different dyes in dot4 and/or 5.1? ie can you get off the shelf dot4 green, or dot4 blue, or dot4 red?


My intention is to buy a liter of 5.1 and refresh all the fluid.... for such small change why leave old fluid in there?


Thanks again.

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[MCL968]

Robo, I went with synthetic and a power bleeder. I never had an easier time bleeding brakes! Pumped it up, broke each bleeder free and let it run until it was clean new fluid, and went to the next wheel. I replaced the rotors, pads, and lines when I did the shocks and strut inserts, and it was so much easier than it was in the past using two people and the "pump it up and hold it until I tell you to let it up" method.

 

Best 50 bucks on a new tool I ever spent!

 

M-

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[Waylander]

5.1 is synthetic fluid, dot 4 is the standard stuff

 

i use Dot 4 clear, then ATE Blue DOT 4, just makes it easier to see, same stuff just blue

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[Roboman]

Thanks M & M I must get myself a power bleeder, I keep reading about them but have been too much of a dinosaur to evolve! And colours are off the shelf, great news. I'm keen to get this project over the finishing line and enjoy some Summer driving.


Martin is that 968forumUK/GB? Because you can see from the photo that the brake union is not long enough, but I'm getting "we've never had any problems in the past" from the drop shipper over here. It would be useful to be in contact with a source supplier, maybe get a photo of the correct part.

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[Waylander]

I will WhatsApp you contact details for K300 Performance

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