[speedysprocket]

Well it runs! Got it fired up this afternoon…!

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[Cloud9...68]

Congrats! How long did it take for the lifter rattle to go away? And how long did the rebuild take you beginning to end? Was it totally stock, or did you add any "goodies"?

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[speedysprocket]

Lifters still make noise, don't know just how quiet they should get anyways.

Car blew up in October. The head had already been rebuilt over the summer, so parts gathering started in October, with most of the assembly in November, finishing up around Thanksgiving. I lost 4 weeks due to travel, so all in all, a couple months, which was much longer than I wanted...

I was getting pretty nervous when it wound't build oil pressure turning it over without plugs… But I took a chance and put the plugs in, hooked up the computer, and she fired right up and oil pressure came up quickly.

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[speedysprocket]

The little plastic neck on the water pump seems to be leaking though. Should I just get rid of the crazy hoses that warm the throttle body and just run the cooling as the stock 944S, which blocks off that water neck…?

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[speedysprocket]

And sorry Cloud9, performance stuff is a crank scraper, the valve pockets were opened up, and I think I asked for a competition valve job.

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[Cloud9...68]

I added a crank scraper as well, but in addition, I added true 11:1 compression lightweight Wossner pistons (after measuring the volume of the combustion chambers and piston tops and finding the actual CR was about 10.5, which David Lindsey from Lindsey Racing told me was very common) which were custom-fitted to the cylinder bore diameters I had measured at the machine shop, Pauter lightweight forged rods, Lindsey Racing hinged oil pan baffle, cross-drilled crank, ceramic coated piston tops, combustion chambers, valve faces, exhaust ports, and exhaust manifolds, had all rotating components balanced individually, and as a unit, and had the oil pick-up tube reinforced. All that machine work took forever to complete - literally months - which stretched my rebuild to well over a year. It went very smoothly overall, and the seat-of-the-pants meter says the car is very strong, although the 200+ pounds I took out of it is probably playing a role in that impression.

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[speedysprocket]

I wish I could have done all that, but just didn't have the time, or even all that knowledge before hand. It's in a 944, so lighter than stock 968s, but with turbo/968 brakes, heavier front springs and 968 torsion bars, 26.8 and 18mm sway bars, camber plates, 968 caster blocks, derlin a-arm bushings, and the replacement a-arm steering pin kit with bronze bushings... So I expect the car to be plenty quick enough and handle tightly for me. Engine also has an aluminum flywheel..

Did you remove your throttle body heating stuff?

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[flash]

i hope you did the modification to the flywheel so that it doesn't come apart, like so many we have seen. there is a thread on this.



you will not like the delrin a-arm bushings. they will make a racket, and wear out, creating geometrical complications. been there done that. spherical bearings would have been better, but even those wear out. i am on my second set now. i should have stayed rubber.



as for the throttle body warming hose bypass, if this is a street car, and you plan on driving in areas where the air temp is below 40 degrees, do not bypass that passage. it is there to warm the air a bit so you don't get icing in the dual resonant intake. unlike the earlier manifold, the 968 manifold is unique, and the nature of how air moves in there lends itself to icing. even if it isn't icing, the mixture gets messed up, which can cause other issues.



if the air temp stays above 40, you can bypass it, though at the lower temps you will likely find some cold running issues. above 50 should be fine.

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[flash]

this is the flywheel thread:



http://www.968forums...__fromsearch__1

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[speedysprocket]

Wow, thanks for the heads up, just found the write up on the Fidanza. Are they the only aluminum flywheel? If not, how do I know which I have? The only marks were some hand engraved numbers...

A-arm bushings are Racer's Edge. They have to be better than the weltmeisters I had that fell apart...

And I'll keep the throttle body heater- was just looking for a reason to block off the plastic water neck on the water pump that's leaking...

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[flash]

spec makes one, but i don't know anything about it.



the other two out there are both made by fidanza, and both exhibit the problem. one is out there everywhere (12lb unit). one is sold exclusively by rs barn (18lb unit)



the bushings will work for a while. they have to be lubed, even though delrin is supposed to be self-lubricating. otherwise, they start making noise very early. then they will wear out in an oval pattern, leaving gaps which make even more noise, and allow the control arm to move where it shouldn't. the problem is that the suspension was designed for a car that weighed almost 800 lbs less than it does. they never beefed it up to handle the extra load. then nuts like us start putting on bigger stickier tires, bigger suspensions, and start pushing the car harder than was designed. then, parts fail. it is what it is.



good call on the throttle body heater. i'm installing a supercharger on a car right now, and we're keeping that, as it's a street car, even though it doesn't get that cold here. the cold start issues and such are enough to make it too much of a pain to put up with for a daily driver. i live in a very warm climate, and have the bypass, and even i have issues on cold mornings. if i weren't running as much boost as i am, and am worries about adding any intake heat whatsoever, i'd probably reconnect everything.

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[Cloud9...68]

Speedy,

It'c common for that little plastic fitting on the water pump to leak, especially if the wafer pump has been off the car for awhile and not getting lubricated with anti-freeze. You just need to replace the o-ring that seals the fitting to the pump.

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[speedysprocket]

Just came back from Bap-Geon; I'll have a new housing tomorrow for $8. Hope it comes with the o-ring, which I suspected was the only problem as it was...

Also, the air-oil separator has the PCV tube that goes to the intake coming from it. There's a T-fitting half way between the two that points at the engine. Is that just a relief valve or was something supposed to connect to that T?

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[flash]

should not have a T fitting. hose goes directly from AOS to throttle body.

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[speedysprocket]

Well it does. Looks like it's meant to fit into a grommet, but it points directly at the block. Looked like there was a valve of some sort inside the T.

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[flash]

the very early cars had a check valve there. they deleted it later

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[speedysprocket]

Ok, thanks. Is there a reason to get rid of it?

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[flash]

messy - not needed. doesn't hurt anything though, as long as you aren't running forced induction. even then, i'm not sure it hurts anything, but i'll know that shortly, as the early 93 (which is really a 92) that is here has it.



my car does not have it. never did. it's only on very early cars. AOS and throttle body are the same, so i think they figured it wasn't necessary, and since emissions regulations prohibit venting to the atmosphere, they deleted it.

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[speedysprocket]

Got it, thanks!

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[speedysprocket]

Got it on the road a little today, finally, and wow! So much more power than the old S engine, and I wasn't going hard on it yet! Should I change the Amsoil break in oil at 500 miles or can I get some more out of it? I have 6 quarts of the, plus half a quart of valvoline VR1, and I'm going to pick up another quart of VR1 to throw in it, since even with 6 1/2 quarts, level is at the bottom of the stick. Also, do you guys drain the oil cooler with oil changes…?

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