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Engine rebuild
#21

And the block is stamped M44/43. So I guess it's just an early engine? Should I leave them out or put them in?
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#22

Speedy. You are fine. These plates definitely belong in a 968 block. Here is a picture of my very late '94 virgin motor that I opened up. (It's an M44/43 motor s/n 42R01037 to be specific). They were also in the '93 motor I have rebuilt. Some things that are on the block are not in the PET for some reason.

The engine designers must not have wanted oil splashing up in the cavities around the cylinder walls. The screws holding these plates in place are loctited in place.

The arrow in the picture points to one of the oil squirters.
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#23

hmmm - i just don't remember seeing those, but then, i probably haven't stared at the inside of a 968 block as many times as lear has - lol. makes sense they would be there though. it's also odd that there are no instructions for those in the 968 manual. but, there are other things that are presumed to carry forward, so..............



that's ok - if you look in the 968 manual, they also give you the wrong size pistons
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#24

Wow, wrong size of pistons? Where should one look for the right size then?
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#25

lol - it's just a misprint in the shop manual. they put the 944 size in there, instead of the S2 or 968 size. the suppliers will list the correct piston size, as i'm sure does the PET.



i wonder though, what you are supposed to do if you lose or damage one of those covers?
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#26

There are studs on the block that aren't in the PET either. What's German for "tough luck"?
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#27

lol - true enough. i find it really odd that an engine that remained essentially unchanged for 10 years, does not have a complete parts list. so much for the german attention to detail
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#28

Thanks for clarifying the plates! And yes, I have those squirters too.
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#29

Well got the block all clean. Looks like somewhere along the line I lost one of the two bushings to center the main caps, number 24 in this diagram, part number 928 101 195 03. I don't suppose anyone has one laying around I could buy…?

Next question is assembly lube. Do the cylinders/pistons/rings get oiled or not? If so, engine oil or…? And should I use assembly lube on the cam? Should I soak the lifters in anything to help free them up? They were a bit noisy last time the engine ran.

Thanks!

[Image: ScreenShot2013-11-15at85800PM_zpsbef29e1d.png]
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#30

If you can rebuild this engine without at least one order to Sunset, you're a much better man than I. If you buy a bottom end gasket set, you do not get everything that should be replaced in a major overhaul. There are a few o-rings you need to order individually. You really need to clean out the main oil gallery, which means you need a couple of item 26. So why not just get a couple of new item 24 in that order.

I liberally coated piston walls, as well as the piston sides with engine oil before sliding them into the bores. Put a bunch of oil on the sides of your piston ring compressor so the pistons slide in nice and easy. Yes, lots of assembly lube on the cam lobes and lifter tops.

I flushed the inside of my lifters liberally with brake clean.

Lot of work putting these motors together. Best to do it right.
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#31

Cylinders, pistons and rings get oiled (with engine oil). I dipped each ring into engine oil prior to assembling it on the piston. Wipe down the cylinder with a thin film of oil.



To install the pistons into the bore I sprayed the bores with WD40 for installation, then later wiped with engine oil.



Assembly lube can be used on the cam bearings only. The cams and lifters should be oiled with engine oil only.
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#32

I thought the primary areas assembly lube should be used is on the main and connecting rod bearings.
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#33

Yes - use assembly lube on main and rod bearings (and also balance shaft bearings). I was only responding to the question which was specific to cams.
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#34

Thanks guys!
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#35

Anyone know off hand what orings the rebuild kits are missing? My top end, bottom end, and front end seal kit arrived today…!
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#36

[quote name='Lear35A' timestamp='1384033827' post='151988']

There are studs on the block that aren't in the PET either. What's German for "tough luck"?

[/quote]



Pech gehabt
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#37

So balance shaft bearings… One of the front bearings I have is tapered. Is this normal? It's very tight on the last 1/8" of the balance shaft. My second bearing isn't hear yet, so can't compare. And it is a standard size, Porsche bearing.
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#38

The front bearing is an interference fit and needs to be pressed on. I just left mine as they weren't noticeably worn.
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#39

I pressed the bearing into the housing. I'm talking about the balance shaft being tight going into the bearing...
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#40

Well mine wasn't tight. It should turn freely, if it doesn't then there my be a problem.
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