[Cloud9...68]

I'm not sure if this adds a lot to the conversation, but what I did sounds similar to speedy's approach. My engine was out of the car, so here's what I did:



First, I bought a cheap 360 degree plastic protractor from Lowes, drilled a 5/8" hole in its exact center so it would fit over the front of the crankshaft, and secured it to the crank via the front pulley bolt. I then attached a pointer I had made to the block via one of the belt protector (can't think of the correct word for it) studs, so that it was pointing to the periphery of the protractor. I next determined the exact <acronym title='top dead center'>TDC</acronym> of piston #1 using a dial gauge contacting the top of the piston, and set the protractor so that the pointer was pointing exactly at the zero degree mark on the protractor. The told me exactly where <acronym title='top dead center'>TDC</acronym> was for the remainder of the procedure. I then followed the procedure in the WSM, using just a single dial gauge on piston #1's intake lifter. To rotate the engine, I built a handle that I could bolt to the flywheel threads, allowing me to turn the engine from the back.



At the time, however, I didn't know about the issue of compressed air blow-by in the variocam assembly, so I may not have extended the variocam fully - I don't remember how much hissing I heard. So, I'll check the valve timing again when I next change my belts, which will be sometime in 2014. Unfortunately, with the engine back in the car, I won't be able to use the method described above.



Speedy,



I'm impressed by how fast you completed your rebuild. Mine took well over a year, but I had quite a bit of machine work done (cross-drilled crank, installed new true 11:1 compression Wossner pistons and Pauter lightweight forged rods, had a flap-style oil pan baffle from Lindsey racing welded into the pan, ceramic coated the piston tops, combustion chambers, valve faces, exhaust ports, and exhaust manifold, had the oil pick-up tube reinforced, balanced all the components of the rotating assembly, etc., and the queue time at the machine shop I used was ridiculously long). It sounds like you've done this kind of thing before.

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[speedysprocket]

This may scare some, but it's my first engine build of this kind by myself. I've done two strokes and other stuff, but this was definitely advanced. I had the head done (valve job, new guides and seals, opened the pockets up) and the block honed over the summer. Once my S engine broke though, I had to get moving on this.

My adapter for the air pressure was simple. I had like a 3/8" plate of aluminum. Cut a piece roughly the size of the oil tube flange. Drilled the three holes, then drilled the oil/air passage hole out for a 1/8" NPT tap, not all the way through, then tapped it, but a 3/8" barb fitting in, and connected that to my air source. I know the vario cam was dry, I put some oil in it. Sounds like I'll check it again after some driving. Like I said though, my new cam location was very close to where the factory had set it. It should definitely get me down the road just fine for now.

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[speedysprocket]

Well got the engine into the car last night. Now to hook it all up… What's recommended break in oil and procedure for these engines?

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[speedysprocket]

I did search with little to no luck...

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[ds968]

IIRC, after my rebuilt ( it was only the head rebuilt, nothing done to the bottom half ) my mechanic suggested the first couple of hundred miles be driven at no higher than 3500 rpm, and then the oil changed after a thousand miles or so.. Again, not sure but I recall something along those lines, and just for the top so if you had the entire engine rebuilt I would think it requires even more TLC

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[flash]

break-in procedure varies from builder to builder.



some guys use cam lube and things like that when building. that requires a heavy detergent oil to flush it out.



some guys assemble with only oil. that requires less to flush it out, but you have to fire it up almost immediately after building. letting it sit even a few days can cause a LOT of damage on initial startup.



either way, DO NOT break in an engine with synthetic oil. the rings will not seat properly.



i would use a break in oil (not regular oil with additives you pour into it). run the engine for about 500 miles. then change the oil to a conventional oil for another 500 miles. then change the oil to the high zinc content synthetic oil that you will run from there on.



for break in, and getting a good ring seat, after a good warmup, we always put an easy 10 miles or so on it, and then take the car up a hill, in the tallest gear it can run, and lug the hell out of the motor. running up and down the hill a few times, getting things good and hot inside, and then letting them cool down evenly, really gets the rings to expand. the remaining bit of the first 500 miles is varying rpms, and varying loads, never getting past 70% of redline.

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[speedysprocket]

Cool, thanks! I did use assembly lube on all bearing surfaces cam lobes and oil in the lifters and on piston walls. What's a good weight oil for break in? Temps here varying from 30-70 degrees on a daily basis, but expect an average around 40 this time of year.

Also read somewhere else where flash recommended turning over the engine with no plugs for 30 second intervals about 5 times before attempting first start, so I plan on doing that as well.

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[banditsc]

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...e=BRKQT-EA

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[flash]

yup - that's what i use

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[speedysprocket]

Wow, I've forgotten a lot since I pulled the engine out of the 968 two years ago! But it's getting there, slowly...

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[Cloud9...68]

I had the same experience - I figure the rebuild would take a few months, tops, but, primarily due to incredibly long waits at the machine shop, it was nearly two years before I finally put the engine back in. Since I didn't expect it to take so long, I didn't take enough pictures or notes of things like where all the vacuum lines and connectors go. Took awhile to piece it all together, as usual with a lot of help from people on this forum.

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[ryker]

That's why you should always own at least two 968's...

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='ryker' timestamp='1387591533' post='153748']

That's why you should always own at least two 968's...

[/quote]

lol - yes, that would have been a huge help, actually.

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[speedysprocket]

Yeah, I took a lot of pictures, then hard drive crashed… Oh well. It's not too hard to figure out. Some other human designed and built it after all...

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[Bulti]

Yeah, a whole team of top-notch engineers having access to all the equipment they need. If you can put it all together without too much of a problem: my respect.

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[speedysprocket]

Oh I still messed up and had to take stuff apart and redo because I did something in the wrong order or such. Just can't wait to be done though!

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[speedysprocket]

Well it's never easy… So close to being done… Went to put the collector pipe onto the headers and the O2 sensor hits the bell housing. I can move it slightly forward and cant it to the right, or move it about two inches back and keep it upright. Does it matter? And if I can't find a wend in bung locally, would a nut welded on suffice…? Ultimately, I intend to get a 968 exhaust for it, so this may just be temporary.

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[flash]

a regular nut won't work well. bungs are readily available. your local exhaust shop should have them. you can certainly get them online easily enough



the sensor should be pointing up. not exactly sure why, other than condensation, but i know that every tuner i know is adamant about that. 2 inches back should not be an issue. a foot back might be.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1388792806' post='154108']



the sensor should be pointing up. not exactly sure why, other than condensation, but i know that every tuner i know is adamant about that.

[/quote]



That's correct - it's because of condensation.

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[speedysprocket]

Alright, thanks!

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