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Engine rebuild

i would change it at 500. then put in the amsoil 10-40 synthetic. then change that at 3000. after that, you are good for regular changes at 5-7k on full synthetic.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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No break in time with conventional oil for the first 3000…?

And is 10-40 best for these engines?
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Speedy...know what you mean about the difference between the S and the 968 motor. With the S you have to drive it like you stole it to go fast and the mid-range was just not there much. The 968 has such a wide power band in comparison. I have both to compare.



I know your going to enjoy this new engine in such a lighter car. Now you have a "sleeper".
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[quote name='speedysprocket' timestamp='1389353380' post='154269']And is 10-40 best for these engines?[/quote]



The POs used Mobil 1 10-40, I ran Amsoil 5-30 in it for ten years and when I had the engine apart for the head job ( timing belt break ) at 100 k miles all the components looked as new as if they were just manufactured. Not even the bottom variocam pads had any more than mere hairline traces on them. And to put things in perspective I drove that car constantly above 5k rpm. 90% of the time it was above 4k, even when cruising. So I think 5-30 is perfectly fine for these engine, based on my experience, though I now run 10-40 since I was advised with a supercharger that would be the ideal oil weight. Amsoil, of course..
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I think I'm going to be quite happy with this setup. My dad has an 86 turbo, and he used to walk away from my S, but that car won't have much on me now! I also loved the way my car handled so much better. His turbo just felt so much softer with way more body roll and such. Getting an alignment this afternoon then time to drive!
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the break in oil is break in oil. if you seat the rings properly, there is no further need for conventional oil. sure, you can do it, but you shouldn't need to. wouldn't hurt either. your call. a quick test after 500 will tell you if the rings are seated or not.



dan has been lucky. 5-30 is too light for hard use. this is due to the heat issues. higher viscosity oils break down later than lighter oils. he also does not drive it as hard as he thinks he does. it's not just running at 4k. it's being on throttle hard a lot that generates heat. cruising doesn't generate a lot of heat, no matter what rpm. freeway driving is the easiest kind of driving on an engine. stop and go traffic, track, and canyons are the hardest. while an engine may look fine running on 5-30, this is purely anecdotal, and not a good idea for anybody planning on driving the car hard. that being said, if it gets really cold where you are, 10-40 may be too heavy for easy starts in the winter



the supercharger generates even more heat, and therefore increases the need for a heavier oil.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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I usually ran 10-30, but switch to mostly 20-50 as the old engine leaked more and more... I'll try some 10-40.
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i found my operating temps actually dropped when i went from 20-50 to 10-40. i don't track the car though, so it was ok. if i were tracking it, i'd run 20-50.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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Well, I went with 5-30 all that time because that's what Amsoil recommends to be the best weight for " high performance European car engines " , in their literature. And in fact, that's the only weight on which that specific designation was printed on the quart containers label, when I used it. Now they have a few other weights with " for European cars " designation. However, what they might consider European high performance engines and what the 968 engine is could be entirely different things,. My mechanic also agrees with flash re 10-40 being probably the safest bet, though he is a strong believer that anything Porsche recommends in their maintenance booklet or bulletins, etc is always best..and I think there are a couple of different weights sanctioned for the 968 ..
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yeah - it's not like i'm afraid of 5-30 or anything. for the record, i ran 5-30 in the denali it's whole life. remember, we all used to use straight 30 in everything but our hotrods.



the issue with our engine is the piston size and compression ratio, and the pounding the bearings take as a result. 5-30 is just fine for daily drivers. it will start easiest, jump to pressure quickest, and will provide adequate protection for normal driving. however, if you are going to run the car hard, a heavier oil will do a better job under those conditions.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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Occasionally I have mixed weights, poured in half 5 - 30 and half 10 - 40 ( does that mean I was running 7.5 - 35 , lol ) . Yes, I also run with scissors !!
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Do you run the high zinc synthetics, like amsoil's hotrod line of oil?
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I run Amsoil 10w40 Premium which is high zddp. In my 928 I run there 15w50 which is also high zddp.
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Current:
2016 Cayman S
Former:
94 968 Cab 6 Spd. Black/Cashmere D1R SC
86.5 928 Garnet Red Metallic
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Alright, so I'll get 10w-40 premium.

New thought- Check Engine Light. 944S doesn't have one. I have identified the pin in the 14 pin plug in the passenger's foot well that feeds that light. Is it as simple as hooking a light to that pin and getting ground to the other side of the bulb?
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