05-19-2021, 07:34 AM
FINALLY!!!!! Exchanging the brake lines reached the top of the list. Not a tough job, though my body is presently disagreeing with that statement. As usual there was the opportunity to do a few other jobs "while I was down there" 
which in this case meant replacing/installing rubber guides for the ABS tubes.
So to tie all these jobs together .....
1. Needed to replace the booster as the diaphragm must have been shot (did all the tests to ensure it wasn't any of the vacuum valves/connectors)
2. Removed the master brake cylinder, found that it was leaking and the likely source of the booster failure.... replaced brake MC (look back at notes on MC compatibility).
3. Replaced clutch MC as the removal of the booster opens up all the necessary space... so "while you're in there" .... replaced clutch MC.
4. Decided to replace the brake lines with SS as the increased pressure from the new booster and MC may shortly expose rubber hose weaknesses. I was initially sold a set that didn't fit, but the supplier said everyone uses these with no problems ... eventually they agreed on the return and I ordered a new set from Probrake.de. Much better quality, and unlike the first set, these included the rubber donuts to stabilise the lines onto the chassis, copper washers, and gummy bears!
Notes:
1. Commit to removing the inlet manifold with fuel rails attached. Beware of injector gaskets falling into inlet ports. Order manifold gasket. I had read about removing the booster without removing the manifold but this turned out to be impossible, wasted a lot of time, and would have denied me opportunities for some preventative maintenance.
2. Remove driver's seat ... you will need the space in the foot well.
3. Order "Power Bleeder" if you don't have one .... it's cheap and makes this job, especially clutch bleeding, so much easier.
4. Have a think about replacing the various brittle plastic items which will become accessible once the inlet manifold is removed. In my case it was various electrical plugs/sockets as well as some of the vacuum pipes and joints. (you will need the pin extractor/inserter tools)
It took several days (spread out over many weeks) to work though all this for my first time. I doubt it is doable in a weekend unless you've done it all before and it goes without a glitch, and in any case I believe it is worth spending extra time examining and doing some preventative maintenance, jobs that won't become obvious until you are in there.
Good luck, I have to say that my brakes are now very sharp and the car is going well
PS Did I mention the Power Bleeder!!!!!
which in this case meant replacing/installing rubber guides for the ABS tubes.So to tie all these jobs together .....
1. Needed to replace the booster as the diaphragm must have been shot (did all the tests to ensure it wasn't any of the vacuum valves/connectors)
2. Removed the master brake cylinder, found that it was leaking and the likely source of the booster failure.... replaced brake MC (look back at notes on MC compatibility).
3. Replaced clutch MC as the removal of the booster opens up all the necessary space... so "while you're in there" .... replaced clutch MC.
4. Decided to replace the brake lines with SS as the increased pressure from the new booster and MC may shortly expose rubber hose weaknesses. I was initially sold a set that didn't fit, but the supplier said everyone uses these with no problems ... eventually they agreed on the return and I ordered a new set from Probrake.de. Much better quality, and unlike the first set, these included the rubber donuts to stabilise the lines onto the chassis, copper washers, and gummy bears!
Notes:
1. Commit to removing the inlet manifold with fuel rails attached. Beware of injector gaskets falling into inlet ports. Order manifold gasket. I had read about removing the booster without removing the manifold but this turned out to be impossible, wasted a lot of time, and would have denied me opportunities for some preventative maintenance.
2. Remove driver's seat ... you will need the space in the foot well.
3. Order "Power Bleeder" if you don't have one .... it's cheap and makes this job, especially clutch bleeding, so much easier.
4. Have a think about replacing the various brittle plastic items which will become accessible once the inlet manifold is removed. In my case it was various electrical plugs/sockets as well as some of the vacuum pipes and joints. (you will need the pin extractor/inserter tools)
It took several days (spread out over many weeks) to work though all this for my first time. I doubt it is doable in a weekend unless you've done it all before and it goes without a glitch, and in any case I believe it is worth spending extra time examining and doing some preventative maintenance, jobs that won't become obvious until you are in there.
Good luck, I have to say that my brakes are now very sharp and the car is going well
PS Did I mention the Power Bleeder!!!!!
