[Waylander]

Thanks Kim

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Jmb]

Solved a luxury problem! 

Replaced the outside temperature gauge.  Relatively expensive in order to know the outside temperature, but no longer annoyance about something that does not work. 

Next on the list is to find a solution for the pixel failure in the display of the Blaupunkt Symphony...

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

The repair kit from part works.de is about $50, I have fitted a few kits and they work perfectly

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

The repair kit from part works.de is about $50, I have fitted a few kits and they work perfectly

+1 and from the same source, though I just replaced the screen.  I forget the price, but not a lot.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

Brake booster et al .... finally got around to changing the brake booster.... despite advice to the contrary I cannot see how the booster can be removed without first removing the intake manifold.  And on reflection I'm glad I did that for a number of reasons both technical and aesthetic. 

 

Aesthetic, that's easy, I got to clean the resulting space which is unreachable when the booster is in place.  So here's the before and after on that space.  I've not done the parts I'll be able to reach once all is back together.

   

 

   

 

There's a fair amount of paint exposed that were previously covered in a film of oil.  More importantly I discovered that the bung for the dipstick into the engine cast must have perished in the past and, true to form, the PO didn't replace it properly.  Instead there's plumber's PTFE tape (plumber's tape for everything ) wrapped around where the bung should be.  That, of course has deteriorated permitting oil to escape.

 

It's also going to be much easier to replace the dreaded alternator/starter harness ..... which you can see in the pics above has been replace by the PO using off-the-shelf wiring and no additional sleeve for protection  

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

More before and after ..... not powder-coated, but a lot better than when I removed it .....

 

   

 

   

 

I decided to change the brake MC as it was weeping from the front seal and that is probably the reason the booster failed.  I did consider replacing the rubbers and rebuilding the MC, but I was concerned about the quality of replacement kits and the resulting lack of warranty of the MC as a whole; if the MC piston is a little warn and leaks again, and takes out the new booster, I have no comeback.  So now all the parts are new and have a two year warranty .... fingers crossed.

 

I also decided to change the clutch MC.  It looks pretty manky so I suspect is original, but also there's the "while you're in there" syndrome .... if the clutch MC failed in the near future I'd be pretty ticked off that I'd not done it whilst the booster is out because that makes the access a whole lot easier.

 

So more fingers crossed I've not disturbed too much.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

Finally, removing the intake manifold was not tough at all, much easier than I expected.  It has allowed me to have a good look at various hoses otherwise hidden and I note that nearly all my plug/socket covers need changing, including all those going to the injectors.  So I have a bit more ordering and work to do before I put it ll back together again.

 

More later ....

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[ds968]

Nice clean up job on the manifold !   That’ll be good for at least 5 HP more 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

Nice clean up job on the manifold !   Thatll be good for at least 5 HP more 

The suspension lifted a couple of inches in anticipation of the weight loss .... but I also have to admit the smell of petrol, when I disconnected the injectior feed, brought the mind into focus!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Kaj Hallstrom]

Just a wash and detail, getting ready for the Sunday Morning Cars & Coffee show, my first return in a year. Temps will be in the sixties. Should be a nice morning.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

While your in there,


Replace the O rings on the air oil separator

Replace O ring on the dipstick tube into the sump

Clean both connectors and pins for the knock sensors,

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

While your in there,

Replace the O rings on the air oil separator

Replace O ring on the dipstick tube into the sump

Clean both connectors and pins for the knock sensors,

Thanks Waylander, I was going to do the sump O ring but not the others; good advice

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

Just a wash and detail, getting ready for the Sunday Morning Cars & Coffee show, my first return in a year. Temps will be in the sixties. Should be a nice morning.

Post a photo Kaj, after a year of no Porsche club meetings it would be good to see something positive.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[wswenton]

Nothing done on the cars this week but cleaned out the third spot in the garage for the new 968 arrival.  I plan on trailering it home next weekend. 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

Waylander, I'm struggling to find the part number for the support clip at the rear of the engine (white in the RH photo)

 

and the sleeves that cover the injector plugs (LH photo) ..... edit: found the repair kit from Partworks.de so no worries on that one.

 

 

I have the E-Katalog but it's not searchable, could you have a try with PET please. 

 

Thanks, Robo

 

   

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

The clip for the O2 sensor, Yes replaced mine as it was broken, I will look in the morning

 

999.651.210.40 @ $5.38

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

Thanks Waylander, I was going to do the sump O ring but not the others; good advice

AOS O Rings

Top 999.707.191.40

Bottom 999.707.192.4A

 

Dipstick Tube 900.174.044.40

Dipstick 900.331.013.40

 

Oil filler cap Seal 999.701.846.40

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

Many thanks Waylander  

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

Brittle plastic syndrome .......

 

So after a few days of doing other things I finally got back to the engine bay.  Thanks Waylander, the O2 sensor clip arrived but when I lifted the metal flange to which it is attached, the plug/socket arrangement quite literally disintegrated in my hand

 

   

 

So now I have ordered a dozen male/female replacements as all the injector plugs are shot, as is the varicam plug, and there's no doubt that other plug/sockets are likewise fragile.

 

 

 

In addition I looked into the inlet port which is quite obviously coked up as are the backs of the valves.  The temptation of course is "while you're in there", but I think I'm going to resist this time.  I now know that the inlet manifold is pretty easy to remove, so I think I'll put top-end overhaul on the list for the non-too-distant future.

 

 

   

 

 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

you need to fix that connector on there, thats the crankshaft sensor, if thats not 100% the car wont start.

 

I am afraid we will all suffer with those AMP / Junior timer plugs and sockets being age and heat degraded,

 

I have set of nice blue ones to go on my blue car with it blue hoses and blue ignition leads, and blue is not even my favorite colour!

 

removing that tiny bit of stuff out the ports an back of the valves will cost you about 3K ish

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.