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Timing Belt Problem
#1

<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> I just had my timing belt checked and my mechanic says he has adjusted it to the limit and it still is loose. It has only about 5000 miles on it. Any ideas?
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#2

I'm confused. What is your mechanic doing adjusting the timing belt? It has an automatic adjustment with the hydraulic tensioner...



If you're referring to the balance shaft belt, is he tensioning it in the correct direction? I've never heard of a belt stretching so far as to not be tensionable. I guess it could happen. Replace it with a Continental belt or a Porsche belt from the dealer (I'm not sure who they're using right now.)
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#3

Okay, I didn't state it correct. He says the tensioner is not keeping tension on the belt. They checked it and the bushing etc and everything seems to be okay, but the belt is loose.
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#4

call pete - he just went through this on another car - the tensioner was shot
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#5

That makes more sense. Sounds like a failed tensioner to me too.



Does anyone have any data on how often these tensioners fail? Should we be replacing these on a mileage or age schedule?
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#6

well, it's hydraulic, which means yet another rubber seal that is now very old



as each month goes by, this gets closer and closer to being the same experience as i've had with every other old car - we tend to think of these cars as current, but they at least 12 years old, and as old as 15 - that's a long time for rubber anything to hold up



i'm expecting to have to tear down my 45k mile motor soon for this very reason - leaks are bound to start soon, and the minute they do, the whole thing is coming apart
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#7

I think at my next belt change I'll be doing a tensioner, new rollers, the waterpump, and all the front engine seals. Sounds like fun, he said dripping with sarcasm.



I should probably do the rod bearings too since I am beginning to see some seepage around the pan gasket, and I want to do some track work.
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#8

The tensioner movement is about 13.2 mm. Is that okay?
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#9

It may have full movement with no load being applied. FYI, mine was seized when I replaced it at 95k.
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#10

This is the reason that I replaced the tensioner when I did my belts and H2O pump. Remember the big box of parts Bob?
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#11

It was the tensioner and I also replaced the belt. But, the bad news is that the air bag light was on when I picked it up. My mechanic did not offer to get it turned off for me. I feel he should handle getting it turned off since it happened while he was working on the car. He is very aware of the things that will turn it on from servicing my car for several years. I'm in the market for a new shop!
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#12

cool - that's what i figured it was - glad it got fixed



absolutely he should take care of that light - that kind of thing drives me nuts
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#13

The tensioner should not move once released against the belt. If it moves - especially with the engine running - it's shot.



Mine was shot and made a noise like a heat shield rattling. I ran the engine with the timing cover off and saw the problem: the tensioner was so soft it was acting like a pogo stick and the tensioner lever was hammering against it, making the noise. After I replaced the tensioner it held the tensioner lever rock steady.
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