[flash]

ryan - yeah, i've done that, and it gets you pretty close - definitely close enough for city driving - the problem is that the car weight transfers differently at track speeds, and requires more dialing in to really get it - what puts you in a 4 wheel drift at 30mph in a parking lot is not the same as what happens at 100 mph on a track - found that one out the hard way - got a new paint job for the learning experience



sam - finally figured out what was going on with the "glitch" in the prototype, and am moving forward on production model of the hose - waiting for confirmation of a new fitting that will make for easier installation - will follow up on that today - thanks for the reminder

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[Ryan]

Maybe Flash, but he states in his first post that it is mainly a weekend car not a track car.

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[flash]

lol - i guess that's up to personal interpretation, huh? for me, a weekend car is a track car - lol - during the week, drive the commuter - on the weekend go like a bat out of hell in the toy either on the track, or a canyon like i was on a track - that's why i'm having sway bars made - for most others, a weekend car is pretty much the same as if it were a daily driver with a bit of sporty upgrade - i don't think either interpretation is wrong



no worries - anyway, whether or not he can get it right is really up to his abilities and such, so i'm not saying it isn't the right thing to do, just that it takes more time and knowledge than the plug and play bars



then there's the discussion about whether or not the driver's skills are up to being able to take advantage of any difference - but, that's another chat for another day

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[mrorange49]

I'm leaning towards the M030 sways (mainly cost) and really looking at the KW coil-overs. I could use the money I save for camber plates or bushings.

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[333pg333]

[quote name='flash' post='29791' date='Jan 11 2007, 08:15 AM']i removed the torsion bars completely - this was a ride height thing, and not because i wanted full coilovers - i couldn't get the car low enough without reindexing, and that just seemed like a waste of time for me



it's working for me, but not without its compromises - i do not recommend this for a street car - it requires that the full coilovers have spherical bearing ends instead of rubber bushings - the rubber just can't handle the whole load - this adds noise to the cabin that most people would not tolerate - not sure about the long term effects on the shock mounts either - a street car sees a lot more time than a track car, and reinforcing may well be needed - my car sees maybe 1000 miles a year, so it will be a long time before i see any issues, but the average driver will see them a lot sooner



not sure i made the right choice, as i am still sorting it out, but i think i'll get there in the end - the car would have been more civilized as a street car though, had i left the bars in there[/quote]

But the noise transmitted would be exacerbated in the Cab would it not Bob?

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[flash]

no - actually it's quieter in the cab than it would be in the hardtop - the hardtop, with its larger air space, and bowl shaped hatchback, closes the bonks and rattles in, and focuses them to the front of the car - the cab top allows it to escape a bit, and is also mitigated by the increased inherant noise all cabs have - further, the cab has more things between the source and the cabin to further reduce the sound (storage boxes, extra floor panel, division of space from passenger compartment to trunk, additional left-right bracing)



i'm not saying cabs are quiter than hardtops - quite the contrary - i'm only saying that rear suspension noise like this is less in a cab than a hardtop

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