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m030 rear roll bar settings
#1

Hi guys



Installed the m030 rear roll bar today with new poly bushes very happy with the way it went.



I set the bar on the first hole is this the stiffest setting or should i go for the one at the end of the bar as i want the stiffest setting, sorry if this is a daft question but i did a search and couldn't find an answer so sorry if this has been asked before.



cheers
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#2

Droplinks mounted in the holes closest to the ends of the bar is the softest setting. If you're running staggered wheels and tires I'd recommend either the middle or stiffest setting, depending on how much different your front and rear tire sizes are.



I'm running 225/40-18 up front and 285/30-18 in the rear (a pretty big difference in contact patch) - my rear bar is on the stiffest setting to help counter the understeer that staggered tires tend to cause.
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#3

Thanks bud i have it set on the stiffest then, i.e the hole which is furthest from the end of the bar. Loved the way it felt on the drive home just more neutral and did not lurch when on the limit.



Thanks again
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#4

Yep, the 19mm M030 rear bar could stand to be a couple millimeters thicker IMHO. I might be happier with it once I switch to delrin bushings and solid drop links tho. I made the switch to delrin on my 30mm front bar and was immediately happy with the results.
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#5

Wow - I have always found the softest setting to be the best on the track (with 30mm front bar). I suppose if you were running a bigger stagger then the middle setting would be best. Perhaps my preference is based on the combination of having stiffer suspension than stock and only a 20mm stagger. I suspect the stiffest setting would be entirely bad though at the limit.
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#6

At low speeds I like the stiff setting, but not for every track. It really depends on your suspension settings, tires, alignment... There is no one answer. Your driving style will dictate how you like your bars set as well.
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#7

sway bar settings are completely dependent on a number of other factors. in reality they are torsion springs. they add rate to both corners, in opposite directions (lifting on one side and pushing down on the other). you have to factor in your spring rates and damping mechanisms, and then add in the torsional loading of the sway bar, in order to determine the final spring rate, and then the setting for the sway bar.



then there are other things that can mislead you in regard to those settings too. tire pressures and compounds can easily make you "think" that the bar is too soft or too stiff.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#8

Bob is absolutely right on the money with the comment about the type of tires and amount of stagger... I still cannot believe the difference going to 17's and big sticky Dunlop Z1's made in regard to how the suspension now feels...

With the stock factory suspension (not M030), the original 16" C2 Turbo (C2 Turbo (Cup 1))'s with the Goodyear Eagle ZR's provided an easy rider with a nice toss about feel, but not particulary "buttoned down"...

Switched to the 7.5 x 17 front and 9 x 17 Cup4's, with 225/45's front and 255/40's rear in the Dunlop Z1's, and OMG!!!! It's like I went all the way to firm settings with M030 coilovers all around!!! Tight, tight, tight! Now I don't throw it anywhere! If I turn in, it happens RIGHT NOW!!! Everything seems so "connected", and only the tire and wheel change to credit... I am still going to go with the M030 antiroll bars, but not sure I will be able to really appreciate the nuances of the new bars! Let you all know more next Spring!
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#9

I installed my M030 bars early in 2010 and set them at the hardest setting, mostly because I was under there and not paying attention. I looked last year and realized that I had gone full stiff. The back end with my Proxes 4's breaks free and is a bit jumpy all the time. I don't like the Toyo's as the rubber seems hard and really sucks in the wet. I know they are hard because I could get a full 7 years out of them before the wear bars will show. I'm on year 4 at only 50% wear <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> Forgestar F14's and Khumo's next year to cure that - another story.

I think I will back off the sways to the middle hole, put in the new Koni's and see if that cleans up the back end a bit.
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#10

I have a 60mm stagger so I need all the stiffness I can get in the rear.



Wait, that didn't come out right...
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#11

LOL
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