[Fox944]

This is my current suspension set-up.

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-Koni Adjustables Front & Rear (set to stiffest setting)

-H&R Springs up Front

-OEM Rear ride hieght adjustment (Lowest Setting)

-Design 1 Lower Chassis Brace (Front)

-KLA Upper Strut Brace

-Weltmeister Rear Harness/Chassis Brace



Currently im running Michelin Pilot Sport 225.40 18 front & 285.35 18 in the rear. I'm buying new tires. Michelin Pilot Cup sizes 225.40 18 & 265.35 18. The car is going to be re aligned and corned balanced again. The struts/shocks are too stiff to i'm going to soften them 1 turn, as per Flash's suggestion.



I'm also ordering performance pulleys and having them installed, repainting my front bumper due to stone chips.



In any event. I still feel the car has more sway then i'd like. I want to upgrade the sway bars (the car still has the oem 26.8MM & 16MM bars). Is it worth upgrading just one sway bar? My front end is already really stiff and i'm spending a nice chunk of change on the car already. I was thinking about just getting a Rear 19MM Adjustable bar, and setting it to the stiffest setting. Would this work fine with my current/planned set-up?



And 2nd question. Would it be better to go with an OEM 19MM rear bar which has 3 settings or buy a Lindsey Racing 19MM rear bar which has 5 settings. They claim you can adjust it to be either 7% stiffer or 7% softer then the OEM MO30 rear bar.



Hopefully flash can chime in, as i know he has tons of experiance in regards to suspension settings.

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[PorscheDude]

IIRC, rear sway bar changes effect the front of the car and front effects the rear. The sways should be matched as a set, and then use the rear bar for tuning.

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[flash]

it isn't so much that "this one does this and that one does that" as much as it is how a bar changes the weight shift in a roll



sway bars do work together - while, on certain cars, it may be better to mix and match, if you are not going to radically change the car, weight distribution, spring rates, etc, sticking with a matched set is a better bet to insure a balanced setup and less tuning time



as to the lindsey bar and whether or not it is a better choice, again, it depends on whether or not you need that extra adjustment - given that the bar is the same diameter, the way they got the extra 7% was to have a hole farther inboard on the lever arm, and one farther out - that's fine, and certainly no harm - will you ever use it? likely not - however, if the price is similar (or if price is no object) i see no harm in having that flexibility - 7% isn't much though, and could just barely outside the acceptable production tolerance of the factory bars - lol - in fact, at the high end of the rate, if the lindsey went low and the M030 went high, you could have an overlap, and they could end up the same - so, that one is up to you, but i don't see a big advantage, but i don't see any harm either

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[Fox944]

ahhh, decisions decisions.



I think i'm going to go with the lindsey racing 19MM rear sway bar and try stiffening up the rear. With both braces, springs & struts, the front end of the car feels really stiff as is. The rear of my car i feel has too much chassis flex and sway in comparisson which is why i was thinking, i may be fine with just a rear bar. Once i soften the struts/shocks a tad, get new tires and alignment...with the new rear sway bar i think the cars handling/feel may be where i'd like it to be. On the flip side, i could be totally wrong....and maybe i should just get an Mo30 front bar to compliment the lindsey racing rear bar.



BTW, the Linsdey Racing 19MM bar & MO30 19MM bar are the exact same price. So i'm thinking the Linsdey Racing bar is a no brainer.

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[flash]

yeah, pretty sure you'll want the front M030 bar



very cool that the linsey bar is so cheap - definitely a no brainer

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[Duckman]

My car is riding on 235/40-18 fronts and 275/35-18 rears on 8.5 and 10 inch wheels, respectively. It has Koni Sport Yellows at the corners, set to the middle setting front and rear, with M030 sway bars front and rear. The rear bar is set the the middle, too. My car has the original non-M030 springs.



I like the ride. It's not too stiff for the street and the few times I've tracked it, it performed extemely well IMHO.



As for having a rear bar with five setting, rather than three, I'm not sure how much real value there'd be. In this situation, as Flash wrote, they price is right so why not go for it.

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[Fox944]

the Lindsey racing bar seems to be cheaper actually. They have the MO30 Rear bar priced @ $167.99 including 2 new bushings. The Lindsey Racing 19MM bar is priced at $129.95 with no bushings. The bushings cost $4.25 each. So the total is $138.45 for the LR 19MM Bar. I went by their description for the product which said "It has 5 adjustment positions versus the 3 on the 968 bar. This means it can be adjusted 7% stiffer and 7% softer then the 968 bar. More adjustment for the same price!" So i figured it was the same price.



Now i just need to figure out wether or not to buy just the rear bar, at the risk that i will need to get the front bar anyway, or if i should just go ahead and get both.

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[Fox944]

Well i made my decision to go with both front & rear sway bars. I think i'd likely regret not matching the front up if i went with only the rear. Ordered the set including new bishings today. MO30 Front bar, LR Rear bar. Also ordered the power pulleys & new belts. Now all i need to do is order tires. Sent my car in to get the front bumper & lip repainted as well as a full detail. Early X-Mas present to myself. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Thank you for the feedback guys.

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[flash]

you don't commute this car do you? if you run the full set of the power pulleys, you will not have enough current at idle if you are running ANY accessory with the stock alternator



i was able to mitigate most of the deficit issue by switching to a large optima battery for a large reserve capacity, and changing out to an adjustable regulator and bumping the voltage up, but it is still in deficit mode if i am at idle with lights and heat on - if i were to drive in stop and go traffic for long, i'd eventually kill the battery



to do this right, i need a bigger alternator

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[Fox944]

[quote name='flash' post='63723' date='Dec 2 2008, 05:01 PM']you don't commute this car do you? if you run the full set of the power pulleys, you will not have enough current at idle if you are running ANY accessory with the stock alternator



i was able to mitigate most of the deficit issue by switching to a large optima battery for a large reserve capacity, and changing out to an adjustable regulator and bumping the voltage up, but it is still in deficit mode if i am at idle with lights and heat on - if i were to drive in stop and go traffic for long, i'd eventually kill the battery



to do this right, i need a bigger alternator[/quote]





This car isnt my daily driver. But i do drive it on the street. It mostly comes out on nice days.....in the 38 Months i've owned the car i've logged right under 9000 miles on it. So i average about 2,800-2,900 miles annually. It does not idle much, although i do drive it in the city. But again, its usually during day light and i hardly ever run the a.c. Without doing any of the upgrades you've done, do you think i would be fine while driving on the freeway at night with the headlights/fog lights & heater on?

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[flash]

yeah, though it will be close with everything on (including wipers) - no room for big stereos on top of that, but a deck is ok - really the only big problem is at idle - it drops down to about 10 volts pretty easily - once you pop up to 1100 rpm, you're fine - you'll figure it out quickly enough, and learn to watch the gauge, and give yourself a few minutes of charge before shutting down if you've been in deficit mode for long

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[Fox944]

[quote name='flash' post='63725' date='Dec 2 2008, 07:20 PM']yeah, though it will be close with everything on (including wipers) - no room for big stereos on top of that, but a deck is ok - really the only big problem is at idle - it drops down to about 10 volts pretty easily - once you pop up to 1100 rpm, you're fine - you'll figure it out quickly enough, and learn to watch the gauge, and give yourself a few minutes of charge before shutting down if you've been in deficit mode for long[/quote]





ok, works for me. I can live with that. Thanks for the insight...as usual.

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