[MB968]

[quote name='tamathumper' timestamp='1384100064' post='152026']



Unfortunately, a given brand and weight of oil might be reformulated at any time, so Mobil 1 15W-50 from a few years ago might not be the same today! Argh!



[/quote]



TRUE. The lubricants lab at Cincinnati Milacron was part of my organization until we finally closed it with resale of the company. The lab produced the Cincinnati Milacron Lubricants Manual (you can still find used copies on line). It was the bible for the machinery industry. We did a whole series of ASTM tests that were important to the use of general equipment. The list of approved lubes for a wide variety of purposes on machinery was published in this manual.



It wasn't uncommon that a lube that had been on the approved list for many years, when retested (I think we required this on an every other year basis as a minimum) would fail a specific test. The failure could be traced to a change in the base stock (where in the earth the actual base oil came from), or reformulation of an additive, or... Reformulation to get approval and listing in the Manual could sometimes be a long process just to regain the properties that an earlier product of the same name possessed.

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[flash]

it is not hard to find DATA on mobil 1, if you know where to look. there have been a number of independent tests that show where it falls down, as formulated at the time of the test.



it is also not hard to find information on lifter failure on 968 engines using mobil 1 as formulated with the reduced zddp. some of that is here.



i'm not saying mobil 1 sucks. i still use it, just not on the 968. i'm not even saying that it isn't a good oil for our engines. i'm just saying that it isn't the magic brew that many think it is, and that there are better oils the will protect better, especially if you track the car, or see higher temps. the mobil 1 that most people use breaks down at a lower temp that some others, and has less zddp, which has been shown to result in wear on our engines earlier than some other oils.



it would be foolish to make a claim of being 100% sure of anything, and making any sort of guarantee, especially when many of us, who have been dealing with these cars for a long time, have all seen and heard of things to the contrary.



i don't ever buy oil in large containers. no particular reason, other than i don't want to store it like that, and it's harder to handle. however, i won't go into a walmart. i rarely go into a costco. i used the per quart price as an apples to apples comparison. if you buy amsoil in large containers, it's less expensive that way too (as low as $7.91 per quart).

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[tamathumper]

The market price isn't determined by your shopping preferences, and good Lord man, don't be silly. You make absolute, emphatic statements all the time. I'm reminded of a recent thread about the supercharger where you said something to the effect of "You'll just have to trust me that I've thought of everything that could possibly go wrong and already solved it."

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[flash]

i have no comment on market price. i only commented that comparing an individual quart price to a the equivalent price of a quart from a larger container is inappropriate. it is only appropriate to compare apples and apples, not apples and oranges. if there is a place that i can get mobil 1, in quart containers, for less, i'm there. i continue to use that in the denali.



i did think of everything that could go wrong, including people who installed them who should probably not have tools. i don't see a problem with that statement. it is far from a guarantee of anything.



but now we are way off topic of the oil filter. discussion will now be returned to that of an oil filter.



on that subject, has anybody taken any shots of what the new canton lid looks like, when removed?

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[biosurfer1]

It would be foolish to claim one has thought of EVERYTHING that could go wrong...I'll make sure to pass this information along to my lawyers and send any future bills your way <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[flash]

lol - i did think of everything. i didn't say i could do anything about everything. i already sent everything to the lawyers, before i sold the first kit.



back on topic - again - i really don't want to have to go in and edit the off topic stuff.



i wonder if the new design of the canton uses the same o-ring as the previous one?

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[ds968]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1384181985' post='152053']

on that subject, has anybody taken any shots of what the new canton lid looks like, when removed?[/quote]



How could you have missed the opportunity to take a photo of mine ? Oh right..not too much spare time left for non mission-critical tasks, LOL . I was going to accuse you of getting old and forgetful, until I realized the reason you might have overlooked the aforementioned :-) .

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[Rap]

If we are contemplating starting a "Corrections" section for grammatical error abusers, would it be possible to start an " Off Thread" section for continual abusers? We need to keep this Forum "in line". Once again I would willingly volunteer to be its first participant.

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[flash]

yeah - i'm kicking myself for not taking the shots, or even taking it apart to see if anything changed. as you said, i was pushing. i couldn't do the oil change any earlier in the process, as the oil wasn't there until friday, and once i drained it, my garage was paralyzed. i needed to wrap up each day, and move the cars. that left no time for pictures.



hopefully somebody can get a shot. i don't even know what the torque spec is on the bolts, or how you achieve that with the filter in place.

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[MCL968]

Just went to install my Canton oil filter. An earlier poster suggested the 25-254 filter. This is incorrect for my 1992 with 20mm threads. The proper filter is 25-284



https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/pro...58-O-RING/



Does anyone out there know why some 968's would have 18mm and some would have 20mm threads?

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[parptarf]

'92 being different than the later models perhaps?





Anyways, I've never had an issue with my OEM oil filter. Easy to get to, take off and put back on.

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[flash]

lol - and spill oil all over the place

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[parptarf]

I haven't really had that issue. A few drops sure, but nothing I can't clean off with a piece of paper.

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[flash]

??? pretty much everybody gripes about the mess the OEM style filters make. they retain oil, which then dumps all over the place. not sure how you are avoiding that, but if there is a procedure, i'm sure everyone running an OEM type filter would love to hear it.

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[parptarf]

I used a rag once around the filter it soaked up all the oil coming out. The other 3 or 4 times I've just cleaned up the little spillage that comes out of the filter.

Usually I lift the font of the car up, I guess a lot of the trapped oil just goes into the system because of the angle.

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[MCL968]

I think time is the big variable, that and the integrity of the anti-backflow valve in the filter. If the valve is not sealing well, and you wait long enough, the filter will drain and the mess will be minimized.



With that said, I installed my Canton filter today. The proper unit for my 92 was the 20mm (M20) thread 25-284. Works like a charm!



Best price I found was through Summit, and they drop shipped it from Canton so the wait was minimal.

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[parptarf]

Just to be clear, all the Canton thing does is move the filter do a different spot?

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

[quote name='parptarf' timestamp='1411630835' post='162513']

Just to be clear, all the Canton thing does is move the filter do a different spot?

[/quote]

No the one most off them talk about screws right on like the Original filter .

The difference is it has a lid on top ,and the new style one has 4 bolts holding it on , so you can open the canister from the top and take out the filter element , and the replace it with a new filter .

This way there is no oil leaking down the engine bay .



The only draw back i have is that it takes a little longer to build oil pressure when starting , i have the canton filter on the shelf and am back to using the Original filter again .

With Original filter , when i start , the oilpressure comes up instant , as soon as it fires up there is indicated pressure .

With canton filter it takes a little longer , and i just don't like that , we are a still talking less than a second or just around a second .



There is a rubber flap in the filter retaining some oil , but it does not have the drain back valve as the Original style filter has .



There is a thread on it , and otherwise flash wil tell you why he thinks it is still better then the Original .

If your intrested let me know , if we can agree on a price i consider selling .

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[AJG]

I like Flash's idea of putting the oil in milk bottles, then straight in the fridge ready to go on your Kellogg's cornflakes! Mmmh yummy.



Andy

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[ds968]

[quote name='vliegwielolaf1234' timestamp='1411635303' post='162514']

The only draw back i have is that it takes a little longer to build oil pressure when starting , i have the canton filter on the shelf and am back to using the Original filter again .

With Original filter , when i start , the oilpressure comes up instant , as soon as it fires up there is indicated pressure .

With canton filter it takes a little longer , and i just don't like that , we are a still talking less than a second or just around a second .

.[/quote]



So that one second delay has some adverse affect on ..what specifically ? I'm not overly concerned since I've had the original Canton in the six speed for more than six or seven years now, and the new Canton in the tip for almost a year but curious if that one second pressure delay makes a bigger difference in an automatic than in a manual car...though I can't imagine why since it has nothing to do with the transmission, but just asking. Also, is that the design of the Canton filter itself that causes it to function in that manner, or is there any possibility there could have been a small flaw in the unit you had ? Not sure if anyone has paid particular attention to the oil pressure right at the turn of the key, it always takes about a second to notice the gauge anyway. ( unless you make a point of testing the diff between the filters and then your eyes are glued to the gauge from the first spark :--) )

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