[986boxster1998]

Guess my memory isn't serving me too well today; the one I used is the same one Pelican sells and I actually I got it from Auto Atlanta. I remembered it as straight because the part that comes off only houses the safety & switch and point up when installed on my vehicle. The oil comes out at an angile so at first I would only partly open the vavle, then fully open once the flow slowed.

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[flash]

i'm looking at these:



http://www.oildrainvalve.net/categories/...aped-Type/

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[biosurfer1]

Yep, those are the ones I was looking at too, or you can always get the one that has the built in nipple so you can attached a hose to it.

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[DaveN]

I didn't find grinding the side to impair the structure of the housing. With 2 washers I got it to tighten with about a 30 degree point to the rear. Problem with these kinds of things is you hope it starts to tighten just before the final position but you never really get a choice except for shimming with washers..

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[flash]

which is exactly why i like the one i found. you can place the spout where you want it.

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[Paul W]

So I changed my oil yesterday for the first time and pumped the oil out and then had to contend with that questionable filter location. However, all remains good in the universe.



Just had to get the tube down the dipstick and fish it past a baffle, then could pump it all out....took about 15 minutes with warm oil.







It pumped out about 6 quarts, that third line is just short of the 6 liter line.







Now how to deal with that pesky oil filter? I did what others said, put paper towels around it...I removed the airbox cover and primary wire from the coil to the cap. No oil filter wrench that I had would work, but could crack it by hand.....so wait....I have an idea....pop a hole in the top to vent it and it will drain.....nope, doesn't drain....wait, I have a vacuum pump....pump the oil out! That's what I did...I would say it got 3/4 of the oil out of the filter. Not a bad idea I thought.











I ended up adding 6.25 quarts of oil to get it to the top of the dipstick just below the "high" level mark. I will continue to use this process, and have one extra aluminum crush washer in my tool box. However, the filter you guys have been talking about looks nice. Since I have two more OEM oil filters, I'll just wait for now.



When looking at the air filter, it had a bulge on the right hand side, underneath it there is a bulge in the airbox.....does the OEM air filter have a cut out for this, or do all air filters just sit in the air box on the bump? I did have a little oil in there, mostly at the exit of the air box as it goes to the <acronym title='mass air flow'>MAF</acronym>.

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[flash]

that is one skinny hose. you had to pump it for 15 minutes with warm oil? that sounds like a workout, especially since i always change mine cold (all of the oil is in the pan then). hmmm.......... any way to add power to that?



i have to pull down an airbox, but i don't remember there being a hump there, and i've certainly never seen such a dent in the filter. small stuff, sure, but not that big. i have an almost new filter too, so i'll check that as well.

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[Paul W]

You just pump the bike pump on the device about 15 times, it creates a vacuum, and then you walk away and do other stuff. You might have to pump it a few times more. It works by itself.

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[flash]

still not liking the idea of having to clean that thing out each time (leaving oil in there would be disgusting and smell bad), nor do i like the idea of leaving the sludge in the bottom, but it would make for a quick and easy change. pretty sure i would never do it on anything i planned to rev high, but for a camry, it would be a no brainer.

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[Paul W]

Flash, it's either your way or the highway, I get it.



There is actually more than one way to skin a cat in this world.

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[flash]

no - there's a right way, and then there is the corner cutting way. leaving crap in there is a BAD idea. why bother with a filter or oil change at all, if you are going to leave that last 5% in there, which has 50% of the contaminants? dealerships do it because they can. they constantly cut corners. they get paid for warranty work, so they don't think they need to do it right the first time. they would often rather have the car come back, so they can make more money on it. in many cases, doing what they do is the worst possible recommendation.



i guess something is better than nothing, but with oil at $11 a quart, it seems really dumb to me to do a half job, when it really doesn't take any more time to do it right, and the clean up is essentially the same, assuming one cleans their tools after each use. i'm just not seeing the benefits to anybody but the guy selling those pumps, and the guy selling the oil. i think an oil analysis would show that you are leaving behind a lot more than you think you are, and that your oil changes are only about 60% as effective as a full change.



as a side note: on the race cars, we would also flush out the entire engine between changes. that is truly the "right" way. it's just not terribly practical though for an average street car. i still do a bit of a flush every other change on the blue car, because i rev it high. i don't want anything in there that isn't supposed to be in there.

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[Eric_Oz_S2]

$11 a quart! I just bought 5 quarts for $15. Bargain <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" />



.........Actually that was start up oil which ran for 15 mins after my engine rebuild which I am now dumping <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[tamathumper]

MCL968, apologies for not responding to you sooner, I've been away in India for the week. I did not opt for the Canton-style oil filter because I could not justify spending $135-$150 on an oil filter. I continue to use a K&N or Mahle filter and replace it with every oil change.



For those of us with a lift, the majority of the mess (or potential for mess) comes from the oil pan itself, not the filter, and having one of those long-necked oil funnels is priceless. The last time I changed my oil was what I would consider a minor catastrophe in the mess department, and I'll be doing it very differently the next time, which may be very soon as I will probably be installing an oil temp sender in the drain plug as part of my gauge project.

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[flash]

i've never had the oil pan contribute to the mess. i've goofed in trying to catch the plug, and tipped the drain pan, and made a mess though. that's why the petcock sounds great. the filter is a messy proposition though, unless you have the canton. the amount of brakekleen and rags i have saved has already made the canton pay for itself, many times over. i also like the better filtration.

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[flash]

regarding cost of oil: i realize there are less expensive oils out there, and i certainly have no love for paying $11 a quart, but i have less love for paying $20k on a new engine. over the years, especially when i was young and didn't know any better, i've cheaped out on oil, or stretched oil changes too, just like anybody else. when i had the shop, i saw plenty of evidence of what that does. it isn't pretty. it's also a lot more expensive than using good oil, and changing it when it's dirty. rebuilding an engine is not cheap. wear on parts like valves, bearings, and rings increases dramatically with dirty oil. performance goes down when rings and valves wear. so does fuel economy.



i've tried less expensive oils in the 968, but i've seen what happens when they get hot. the amsoil seems to hold viscosity better at temp than anything else i've tried. that will tend to provide protection longer. it's cheap insurance to me.



like they say: "pay me now, or pay me later"

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[biosurfer1]

I'm 100% sure there is no risk whatsoever to the engine if I change the oil regularly with Mobil 1 which is no where near $11/quart ($4.85 to be exact). I guarantee there is no data anyone can show that would prove otherwise.

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[flash]

not true. there is actually quite a bit of data out there, specifically with regard to our engines. i think there are even pictures here on this site. there is a whole thing about the reduced zddp levels, and what that does to the lifters. our flat lifters are subject to wear that the higher zddp levels help prevent.



that being said, i know plenty of people running mobil 1, and have not yet seen any issues. not sure where you can get it for $4.85 though. it's $7.95 on sale here, and the last time i bought it, i had to pay $9.99.



lol - but as long as you are 100% sure, and are willing to guarantee it, i'll send this along to the attorneys so that people can send you their engine bills.

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[flash]

by the way, i'm not biased against mobil 1. that's what i run in the denali. i would love to be able to get it for less too.

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[tamathumper]

Not quite as easy as that. Mobil 1 has different levels of ZDDP depending on weight, and 15W-50 supposedly has enough ZDDP for our engines, and is $5 per quart or less, especially when purchased in a 5-quart size.



http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-15W-50...t/20713647



Unfortunately, a given brand and weight of oil might be reformulated at any time, so Mobil 1 15W-50 from a few years ago might not be the same today! Argh!



http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html



Not to get too technical (well, OK this is too technical), but regarding data, there is a great deal of it out there, but you can find any data you want to support any story you want when it comes to lubricants. In actuality, data is not what is important, because data is universal, discrete, raw facts. What really matters is information, which is data that is accurate, relevant and timely, and which has meaning and relation. The Wall Street Journal's list of all stocks in the market is data. A list of the most recent prices of the stocks in your own portfolio is information.

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[biosurfer1]

I guaranteed no one could show any data and no one has, not sure why you would be sending anyone an engine bill.



Drop into any Walmart and their 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 are $24.25 everyday, not on sale.

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