[flash]

lol - you'll buy it when you have to rebuild your motor. seriously though, oils today are much better than they used to be. the 3k change interval was back when everybody ran straight weight dino oil. nowadays 10k is normal for a synthetic.



the important thing is to keep foreign matter out of there, and to keep fuel out of there.



now that you have supercharged your engine, you will be putting a lot more fuel into your oil (assuming you are using boost). the more miles on a motor, the more fuel will get past the rings and valves. when it gets dirty, you will be able to see and smell it on a paper towel when you wipe your dipstick. you will also be putting more load on the bearings, which means it is all that more important to have clean oil. i would not go beyond 5k-7k miles on your oil.



if you don't believe me, send a sample to blackstone. they will tell you exactly what is in your oil.

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[Cloud9...68]

I bought my Canton filter assembly (the newer 4-bolt type) from Summit Racing, and I also bought a 6-cartridge replacement set. I've always been very happy with Summit - usually the lowest price around, great customer service, speedy shipping, easy return policy, etc.

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[tamathumper]

Sorry, I still don't get it - those look like regular oil filters, albeit billet-cased ones with "aggressive aesthetics". <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> How do they help to avoid any kind of mess, do they have an internal check valve, or do they mount on some other piece that is not shown so they're upside down when installed?



At $120-150 for the filter alone, plus filter elements (I'm assuming), and changing the oil every 7,500 miles on average (per above), it would be about 100,000 more miles before I'd see any kind of break even...?

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[MLB]

C'mon guys! It's ALL ball bearings these days!

(favorite line from a Fletch movie, sorry. :0)

But seriously, the canton opens at the top and you just replace cartridges from the top. I'm interested in getting this rig too

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[Inkedupfatboy]

All my vehicle (4 wheeled ones) get oil changed and tires rotated every 3K. When i was running the bike up north, It gor a change every spring after sitting all winter and every fall before I put it away. Now, since I rarely ride it I put synthetic in it just for the fact it sits way more than it runs.

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[Cloud9...68]

Flash is right - 3K oil changes these days are WAY overkill. Between improved metallurgy, better oil, and probably most significantly, vastly more accurate control of fuel delivery and spark timing, which allows only a fraction as much exhaust product to get into the oil as in the old days, 7500 - 10K mile intervals are more than adequate. On their new models, Porsche recommends something like 25K miles!

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[Inkedupfatboy]

That's cool. 3K works for me so I will probably be sticking with it.

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[hot968]

I changed the oil today for the 1st time not to bad but alot of preparation. Wore old clothes long sleeves, plastic gloves, put a plastic drop cloth on floor and drain pan. Was well worth $290.00 which I paid for my last oil change and filter.

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[ds968]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1370533349' post='143730']

now that you have supercharged your engine, you will be putting a lot more fuel into your oil (assuming you are using boost). the more miles on a motor, the more fuel will get past the rings and valves. when it gets dirty, you will be able to see and smell it on a paper towel when you wipe your dipstick. you will also be putting more load on the bearings, which means it is all that more important to have clean oil.[/quote]



Did not know the SC would make s difference, so good info, thanks -



" assuming you are using boost " he says... Seriously ?! LOL, nah..I had no plans whatsoever to womp on that thing, just bought the SC so I can take photos of it and add to my gallery :-)

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[DaveN]

You may laugh but it is hard to make boost when your car commutes all summer 10k to work at a top speed of 70 kicks. :-( Ah, and small towns where everyone knows the guy in the blue Porsche who tries to make boost in the school zone!

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[tamathumper]

My commute from the new house has become equally frustrating <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Scott Collins]

I have the Canton, but the darn thing usually spun off all the way anyway. Lives in the parts bin now.



So I just went with a K&N that has a bolt pattern right

on top and you just get a socket on that the spin it off. Here's a link:



http://www.knfilters.com/oil_filter/porsche_968.aspx



I also use the K&N air filter.

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[tamathumper]

That's what is on mine now.

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[flash]

it won't spin off if you use a tool to tighten the base, and then don't over-tighten the lid, and remember to oil the o-ring first. it's only supposed to be a touch more than hand tight. i've had mine for years, and it NEVER comes off at the bottom unless i use a tool.

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[rxter]

Canton is now selling a 3.4" unit. https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi...mmerce.cgi



Any advantage to this shorter one? From the pics I would assume that shorter will just make it harder to get at the top for removal.



Thanks

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[flash]

not sure i like the lower flow rate

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[MCL968]

Flash, Tamathumper, et al. which of these is the best choice?



http://www.jegs.com/i/Canton-Racing-Prod...4/10002/-1

or

http://www.jegs.com/i/Canton-Racing-Prod...Id=1995272



Since I have no experience with these filters, the longer one seems to have better filtration due to the larger element, but I am not sure about clearance.



Any thoughts?

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[Paul W]

Don't any of you guys use a vacuum pump to pump the oil out vs. the drain plug? I have been doing this for a while....it's a great way to change the oil. Once you get 95% of the oil out, you can still take the drain plug out if you'd like.







And because my cars have either 8 + quarts (2.0 liter Alfa Romeo) or 10 + quarts (5.2 Audi), I purchase a bucket and lid and just dump it in there to bring it back vs. filling up the quart bottles....really has cut down on the mess.

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[flash]

no, i don't do that, and won't. i don't want the particulates that are in the sump to get back up into the engine. i want them to go through the filter first. because out fill tube is connected to the AOS, there is too great a chance of gunk getting into the intake. as for the "mess", i don't have that problem. i use the canton filter, so no mess there, and i use a drain pan with a good spout. i then pour it into 1 gallon milk jugs. clean and easy to deal with.

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[DaveN]

Patience is a virtue as well. I just did an oil change and left the oil drain valve open for 30 minutes. I put almost 6 L back in so only really leaving .5 L behind - I think 6.5 is a full fill.

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