[Johannvb]

<!--quoteo(post=71995:date=May 16 2009, 01:15 AM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ May 16 2009, 01:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->yeah - unless you have a bunch of chassis bracing, that's how it goes<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I foresee all kinds of braces in my future...

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Johannvb]

Ok, I have the pressure plate etc off, but the flywheel is still on the car. I am afraid that the rear main seal that was sent to me is too small only about 5cm in diameter. I will check this with the Porsche Main Dealer tomorrow.

Since this is the first time I am doing a clutch I spend almost equal time under the car and the internet! I have two questions I hope you can help me with.

1) I have a lot of reddish brown dust in the bell housing It's all over the pressure plate and DMF as well as the inside walls. Is there anything I should be worried about? I think it might be rust.

2) Can someone please confirm the order of parts for assembling the Pressure plate and release bearing:
- release bearing
- thin shim(s)
- "Shim" with square teeth.
- pressure plate
- big shim
- circlip

I am having a great time doing this and thanks to you guys it is not nearly as daunting a task as I initially thought!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[jaap]

<!--quoteo(post=72043:date=May 17 2009, 02:59 PM:name=Johannvb)-->QUOTE (Johannvb @ May 17 2009, 02:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Ok, I have the pressure plate etc off, but the flywheel is still on the car. I am afraid that the rear main seal that was sent to me is too small only about 5cm in diameter. I will check this with the Porsche Main Dealer tomorrow.

Since this is the first time I am doing a clutch I spend almost equal time under the car and the internet! I have two questions I hope you can help me with.

1) I have a lot of reddish brown dust in the bell housing It's all over the pressure plate and DMF as well as the inside walls. Is there anything I should be worried about? I think it might be rust.

2) Can someone please confirm the order of parts for assembling the Pressure plate and release bearing:
- release bearing
- thin shim(s)
- "Shim" with square teeth.
- pressure plate
- big shim
- circlip

I am having a great time doing this and thanks to you guys it is not nearly as daunting a task as I initially thought!<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Hi Johann,

The seal should be larger than 5 cm (close to 10-12) so this is not the correct one. Don't know about the dust.

The order of the parts is correct and should be similar on your old pressure plate/bearing.

Jaap

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Johannvb]

Thanks for the info Jaap!

I will order the new seal today. I also have to order a new clutch fork shaft...mine has grooves pressed into it from the old needle bearings. Luckily there are still enough things for me to do until the new parts arrives.

Tonight I hope to remove the flywheel. I just wish the engine would crank by itself to the next bolt so that I don't have to get up and go around every time to turn the crank [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img] . Maybe I should get an apprentice.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[jaap]

<!--quoteo(post=72075:date=May 18 2009, 07:35 AM:name=Johannvb)-->QUOTE (Johannvb @ May 18 2009, 07:35 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Tonight I hope to remove the flywheel. I just wish the engine would crank by itself to the next bolt so that I don't have to get up and go around every time to turn the crank [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img] . Maybe I should get an apprentice.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I know the feeling although I had access to a lift which made it much easier. But don't get impatient and try to access 2 of those flywheel bolts at the same time because when you strip one you will be under the car for a much longer time. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img] Good luck

Jaap

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Johannvb]

I now have the old flywheel off and it actually seems to be in good condition. The pressure plate and thrust bearing however was totally shot. I am now busy trying the get the rear main seal out....not easy!! Following Erick_K's advice i have gone to the hardware store and bought two Looong screw drivers and also two very short ones. I'll see what works best.

I have also bought all the hardware to manufacture the "Special" tool required to push in the new seal. But since I am couldn't find steel plates I am using a 0.8cm think piece of MDF. I will let you know how it works out.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

mac, snap on, and matco all sell seal removal tools

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Johannvb]

<!--quoteo(post=72346:date=May 21 2009, 09:36 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ May 21 2009, 09:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->mac, snap on, and matco all sell seal removal tools<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


Thanks Flash, I'll go to the store tomorrow to see if I can find the proper tool. My seal is really stuck. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img] I have spent more than an hour trying to get it to move and no luck. I have punched a hole in it and have tried levering it out that way, but still it is stuck.

Now I have sprayed some penetrating spray all around the seal and hopefully all the greasy gunk from the oil leak and carbon deposits will loosen their grip by tomorrow morning.

Looking at my new seal as an example, I might also try cutting the seal all along the inside separating the soft rubber from the metal?

Any advice?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Johannvb]

Ok, I finally got the seal out...and of course I am now struggling with the next step

Having made a tool like Erick_K suggested but using MDF I managed to crack the MDF but the seal wouldn't budge....I now have the seal in the freezer hoping that it will shrink just enough so that I can slide it in. I have no idea if this will work, but I am trying all the options

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Eric_K]

I'm glad people are finding my clutch writeup at least a little useful. There must be other techniques for getting the rear seal installed. There is just not a lot of room to work in there and my seal refused to go on so I came up with the press. With Porsche's love of special tools, I'm surprised they don't have one for this.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

i've created tools for this before - basically a ring of wood so i could smack on the seal evenly

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Johannvb]

<!--quoteo(post=72384:date=May 22 2009, 06:19 PM:name=Eric_K)-->QUOTE (Eric_K @ May 22 2009, 06:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I'm glad people are finding my clutch writeup at least a little useful. There must be other techniques for getting the rear seal installed. There is just not a lot of room to work in there and my seal refused to go on so I came up with the press. With Porsche's love of special tools, I'm surprised they don't have one for this.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

I have found this tool, it seems to be exactly what I need...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...Flywheel%20Side

This is the tool needed to seat an oil seal and it is listed as being a 968 compatible tool. You can buy it from Porsche as special tool P234. An aftermarket version is made by SIR Tools and I believe this is the unit being sold by Pelican.

This articale shows how to use the tool. From what I can see it should fit inside the gap between the crank and guide sleeve mounting point.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=474358

I am going to try to make a copy of this tool and if that fails I will order the tool from Porsche. I really don't want to take the risk of installing the seal incorrectly.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[unknown4u]

Very nice tool!. simple and effective.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Eric_K]

Good find. That tool looks like it would work well. The problem with the usual tools is there is no room to hit them with anything. Of course, I did make mine for under $10. vs $125.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Johannvb]

I made a tool exactly like yours Eric (Except I used wood instead of steel), but for some reason the seal keeps going in skew [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img]

What I am going to try now is to copy the inside of the P234 tool and make a piece that I can screw onto the crank. Then I should be able to pull the piece with the PVC piping in stead of pushing it. Let's hope it works.

This clutch job is starting to hurt financially and I really don't want to spend another couple of hundred euros buying this tool from Porsche. I cannot find the aftermarket tool anywhere in europe. It seems like it is only sold in the US and that means at least 2 weeks for delivery to the Netherlands.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Eric_K]

<!--quoteo(post=72394:date=May 22 2009, 01:06 PM:name=Johannvb)-->QUOTE (Johannvb @ May 22 2009, 01:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I made a tool exactly like yours Eric (Except I used wood instead of steel), but for some reason the seal keeps going in skew [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/mad.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Does yours attach to the guide sleeve bracket? I used the two bolts that hold the guide sleeve to hold the press in the center position. There may be too much flex when using wood.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Johannvb]

<!--quoteo(post=72396:date=May 22 2009, 10:40 PM:name=Eric_K)-->QUOTE (Eric_K @ May 22 2009, 10:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Does yours attach to the guide sleeve bracket? I used the two bolts that hold the guide sleeve to hold the press in the center position. There may be too much flex when using wood.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Yes, I screwed the one side to the guide sleeve bracket, but I think you are right about the flexing of the wood.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[unknown4u]

If you choose the right wood there is no flex. What are the measurements of the tool?
Maybe I can help you out by making one out of a piece of " Dutch appelhout dried for 30 years"
PM me if help is wanted.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Johannvb]

<!--quoteo(post=72437:date=May 23 2009, 08:11 PM:name=unknown4u)-->QUOTE (unknown4u @ May 23 2009, 08:11 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->If you choose the right wood there is no flex. What are the measurements of the tool?
Maybe I can help you out by making one out of a piece of " Dutch appelhout dried for 30 years"
PM me if help is wanted.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


Thanks for the offer Ritchie, but after several attempts using several different methods and in the process damaging the new seal, I have ordered the special tool from Pelican Parts. Since I am a Porsche addict and this tool works on all Porsches from '79 to '94, I see the tool as a good investment.

And if one of the Dutch forum members ever needs to change a Rear Main Seal, you know where to borrow the tool from [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]

Now for a different question that has been asked and answered many times before, but I'll try again....

I am struggling to find a shop that can balance my Flywheel and Pressure Plate. They all claim that they need my crank, flywheel and pressure plate to do the balancing! Obviously this is never going to work....So I have done some research and I read on LUK's website that their DMFs are dynamically balanced before leaving the factory. I have sent an email to Sachs asking them if their pressure plates are balanced as well, but I am still waiting for an answer. My theory is that if they are both balanced any imbalance caused when screwing them together will be minor.

However if, Sachs tell me that their pressure plates are not balanced I might have a problem. Now my question is...how big is the risk that once I have the car all buttoned up that I will have vibration coming from the clutch? I know the DMF should absorb vibration, but I am worried it will fail prematurely.

In an attempt to ease my worries I also spoke to the chief mechanic at the Porsche Main Dealer and he says they never balance the two parts together. Not even on the 997 GT3RS. According to him they never have vibration issues.

Please help [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wacko.gif[/img]

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Johannvb]

At last I made progress!! Last night I installed the new oil seal with my special tool and that went really well. I really struggled to get the DMF onto the crank. I must have been strugling with it for over an hour when I got a great idea. I slided the driveshaft forward and got the flywheel to hang on it using the pilot bearing...I then got the flywheel in the correct position so that the pin and hole lines up and then I guided the flywheel onto the crank by sliding the driveshaft all the way forward. This might not be the correct way of doing it, but it worked really well for me.

But there is some bad news as well...I dinged the refernece sensor during my struggles with the DMF. I now have a few questions:

1) How hard is it to replace? I had a look in this post http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtop...ywheel&st=0 , but after looking in my engine bay, I cannot see the spot where the sensor should go in.
2) How likely is it that the ding in the sensor will cause it to malfunction?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.