[james taylor]

Previous owner had Porsche repair shop in Hendersonville, NC turn the front rotors. Within the first 200 miles I started feeling a slight juddering from the front brakes. Needless to say that when I went through the "Tail of the Dragon" I worked them to the max. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



They now need to be replaced - "Dragon" killed them. Audi TT's and lots of others not making it through as fast though, so I deem it worth it. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Mine is none M030 so I understand both rotors are the same. I have seen some of the performance drilled rotors as a kit with pads/sensors/etc. One such is on Ebay regularly @ $250 purchase price (Zimmerman's I think). Both rotors are drilled in the same pattern though. If internal venting of the rotor is straight and not curved this should not matter (except it just does not look right).



Anyone running these?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Anchorman]

About 8 months ago I installed Zimmerman cross-drilled rotors with MetalMaster pads. I'm very pleased with the combination - and 30-minute sessions around Watkins Glen have been without both incident and fade.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mech]

The ebay set is not a bad deal, I got mine from paragon. You might want to get some of the anti-squeal pucks that go into the caliper pistons, you can reuse the old ones with some glue.



The zimmermans are a good value.



I'm running zimmermans with mintex pads right now, they are not bad, a little light on the first stop, but after hard driving they remain very predictable, more so than the EBC pads, which are pretty good.



Metal masters are pretty popular here, although I have not tried them. They are more abrasive than some of the other choices...



All of them will work pretty well, just be nice for a hundred or so miles after you get them on.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

i have the cross-drilled zimmermans - they work well, and i have no real complaints, but i will probably go slotted next time (if i don't go ceramic - yes, i'm serious) - after about 15k miles, i can see the patterns of rings in the front rotors - no problems, but i'd rather see them smooth

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mech]

Ceramic ehh? My mechanic who auto-xs looks at me funny when I say I want to upgrade the stock brakes on my coupe, he thinks the current setup is very sufficient. On the otherhand, the ups box carring my 4 rotors was destroyed from the weight. Those rotors are heavy, it would do wonders for the car to get rid of a couple of lbs at each corner...



These german style rotors are pretty soft, I believe the purpose is to avid warping.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

and that's the primary reason for me doing it - i picked up a ceramic rotor the other day and nearly threw it threw the roof - that's something i just HAVE to look seriously at - looking at 30k for the entire setup - i'm actually thinking of having them made to fit these calipers though - seems on the surface like i can get it done for a whole lot less

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SANDOVAL]

I would do more research Bob most guys are dumping the rotors from the PCCB package for Steal rotors. They tend to warp. Do a search on rennlist for PCCB.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

i've heard that too - it's not the ceramic though that warps - it's the hat - lots more to look into first - like i said "on the surface" - we'll see how it goes



anyway, if not that, then likely the slotted ones next time

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mech]

It would be nice if we could get a set of lighter rotors run for these cars, a floating design like stoptech's would nice, I have emailed them, but I will probably have to call since they haven't replied via email. Rotora can make a set for a little under $500 a corner which a little over the top, I could get 4 sets of zimermans for that. Even loosing 2 lbs at each corner would result in a perceptible difference in suspension efficiency, acceleration and braking, so its work looking into.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[SANDOVAL]

Check out http://www.frozenrotors.com/ they slotted and Froze the Calipers on my Cayenne.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

you bought into that hype? i see a lot of guys falling for it - i'm realy surprised this has hung around so long - so far though, i've seen absolutely no empirical data to indicate that it works - i would think the only thing it could possibly do is make the material more brittle - freezing and then superheating cast iron is not generally a good idea as metallurgy goes - the material may be harder, but it will also be more inclined to form cellular cleavage breaks

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Greimann]

Here is a paper that documents strength improvements in cast iron from cryo treating.

cryotreat.pdf Size: 71 KB  Downloads: 17

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Anchorman]

Thanks, Dave. Not that I've considered cryotreated discs, but I was sceptical of the value. It does seem, though, that there are some real benefits - the question then is whether they're worth the cost.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

i'll be reading it to see what they found after extended use - thanks dave

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Greimann]

Here is some more info from a seemingly reputable source.



http://www.cryogenicsofindiana.com/IFD/May...ressRelease.htm

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

interesting - in the first article, there is some stuff there about it actually WEAKENING the cast iron, which would be what i would suspect - it would harden the surface of the material, but also make it more brittle - it shows increased abrasion resistance, but nothing about heat disapation or cycling changes



looking forward to more info here - anything that really works is cool with me (pardon the pun)

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Jim Child]

I've run frozen rotors, and they didn't last any longer than non treated rotors for me. In fact the most severe crack I've ever had was in a frozen rotor. A friend of mine has recently had similar experience with frozen rotors. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that the money you would spend to freeze your rotors would be far better spent on your next set of rotors.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Josho]

I've been using Zimmerman cross-drilled for ~2months now with Hawk pads, no noise little dust and stops well IMO. I have no racing experience on them, my car is a daily driver. Being a daily driver I used High temp gloss black paint on the Hat to keep them looking clean, simple extra step for a better appearance.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[james taylor]

Sorry to be off line all day after asking question. Thanks for the feedback on the Zimmerman's - I am going to give them a shot.



Anything unique about swapping out all the brake fluid having ABS on board? Not knowing if any show as fully replenished the system - I want to be sure to get all the moisture out. Normally try to do this every two years.



Thanks!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Bart]

[quote name='james taylor' date='May 6 2005, 10:05 PM']Sorry to be off line all day after asking question.  Thanks for the feedback on the Zimmerman's - I am going to give them a shot.



Anything unique about swapping out all the brake fluid having ABS on board?  Not knowing if any show as fully replenished the system - I want to be sure to get all the moisture out.  Normally try to do this every two years.



Thanks!

[right][post="4427"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

Nothing special. Remember that the clutch slave uses the same holding tank as the brakes. I use a Motive Power bleeder when bleeding the brakes and it makes the job go faster and a one man job. I will be flushing all the fluid in my car this weekend because the master cylinder is leaking. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Good Luck!!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.