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Brake Pads & Rotors
#21

clearly this one is a lot more subjective and involved than anyone expected



turning rotors used to be a common practice - in fact, you had to do it before using them - not so much anymore



turning them does do one good thing though - it removes the deposits left there from the pads - this is extremely important - all pads leave deposits - they do this in specific ways - that is why the break in is so crucial - you should always start with clean metal - if you can't replace the rotors, then definitely at least turn them - it is not a good idea to do a "pad slap"



for most people i think a lot of the decision of which way to go is dependent on the type of car though (or at least its use) - what you would do to a toyota is not what you would do to a porsche (or at least shouldn't) - they are different animals - give the toyota kibble - sure - but give the porsche steak



to that point, within spec does not mean optimal capability - it means minimum acceptable capability - less material means less heat transfer - yes, the car will operate fine in commute traffic, and under nominal conditions - no, it will not do as well when pushed hard



i don't expect the kind of performance out of a toyota that i do out of a porsche - the car is driven harder purely because we can - the focus is performance - i think that parts should be chosen with that in mind - if you want a toyota, that's cool - buy one - it's kind of like tires - the tires i choose for the denali are different than the ones i choose for hte bimmer, adn different than the ones i choose for hte porsche - different cars - different uses - different needs



compared to other performance cars today, this car is big, heavy, sloshy, and slow - the only thing it really has going for it is its balance and its braking - do you really want to short change one of those by using less than perfect parts? i mean, why bother choosing performance pads if you're going to use less than perfect rotors?



as i said earlier in the thread, both porsche and bmw leave very little material for turning - i was quite stunned at this - i expected the rotors to be extra thick, so as to handle the heat better - what i found was that they are barely above spec brand new - i was used to being able to turn a rotor at least twice - that was the old days - the ones on the E30 bmw could not be turned at all, and the ones on the E46 just once, and it didn't take - neither had any grooves - the ones on the porsche are close, depending on how badly they are grooved



i don't think the recommendation porsche makes against turning is as macheavelian as it is liability driven - perhaps they indeed specced the part with very little extra material though, so as to insure replacement and not turning - wouldn't be the dumbest business decision i'd ever heard of



bottom line for me, i think of a car with thin rotors much like i think of a car on a spare - get me to where i can fix this right - until then, i will be careful about how i drive it, and not push it
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#22

If any given part is witin spec it can be driven as hard as the design was intended. This is why there's a minimum spec. Anything below that is risking a reliability issue. No one has suggested going below that point.



And, if you've ever turned a rotor, a skin cut only removes < .010" a side. So any difference to the heat discipation capability is negligible. Heck if anything you have less un-sprung weight, [again too minute to worry about]. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#23

lol - ooh - turn them all down to minimum - go faster



i guess then that they never intended this car to be driven fast - we've cooked the stock brakes plenty of times



yes, i'm aware that generally it is .010 on a skip - i have driven on rotors that have been turned, and not, on the same car - many times (not the 968) - i've also seen the results on the track - bad news for skipped rotors on the track, even staying above minimum spec - that 3-5% material removal seems to make all the difference in the world, especially when you consider that we are already looking to cool them off more in that application



i have a hard time grasping that porsche is any different than any other manufacturer when it comes to what they deem is "minimum spec", but i suppose it's possible that they have a higher standard



what does this mean to the avarage driver? more often than not, nothing - however, as an example, i was checking the route of the fun run in the denali last summer and i am danged glad i had the brakes i did - if i had the stock ones i would have stuffed a wall - as it was i had enough fade to make me pull over and let them cool down



on that same course, we frequently see people smoking their brakes, even 968s - i wish we hadn't have gotten stuck behind that mini suv that day or you would have seen the same thing - that road is a real test of brakes - lots of fun, but not for less than perfect brakes



and that is nowhere near the amount of heat you would see at your local club event



it's not all doom and gloom - as long as you aren't pushing the car, turned rotors will serve fine - at the extremes though, the limits show up, and you'd be wishing for that extra material



you know what they say though - if your brakes aren't smoking, you aren't driving fast enough
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#24

Wow, what a great discussion! Thanks everyone for all your input. I learned a lot through your comments and suggestions!!! There clearly are several different roads I can take on this, many of which would work just fine. I put this out there so I could weigh the pro's and con's of different approaches. Having a father with an airplane and lots of friends with boats, I've learned that if I have to ask how much it costs, I can't afford it!!! So I've put a lot more $$ into my little project car than I expected, justified just because I love the car and want her to look and feel and behave her best!



Although this started out as just a fun weekend car for not much $$ going in, two years later I've come to really appreciate our car and I'm with many of you who agree it's sacriledge to not keep them up. Since I'm not tracking the car, and she's in really excellent condition with somewhat low mileage, I'm trying to keep it as true to original as possible. She's getting a lot of presents this winter (new sound system, new top, new door panel tops, new tires, repainted wheels, removal of anything that reveals her true age like old stoneguards or minor scratches). Thanks to your comments, I'm going to do new rotors and brakes all around (pay now or pay later concept). If for no other reason than simplicity and to keep her true to Porsches' original design, I'm going ahead and giving her new rotors and brake pads all around, with Porsche products. (I wash the car frequently so will just live with the dust) Thanks for the suggestions on sourcing them at places other than the dealer, will do that to save some $$.



You'll all get to meet her in Hershey! Thanks again for all the great dialogue and hope to count on you all again for other topics in the future! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Hey, funny note: I happened to look up the 968 on Wikipedia and what a surprise! My VERY OWN CAR is the first photo at the top of the page! It was from a series shot by the PO in his Florida driveway, must have been from his eBay listing or some other public posting he made. Very cool to see my own car there, quite by surprise!!! hehehehe
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#25

cool stuff



please don't let the spirited chat here disuade you from availing yourself of every resource here - we get pretty deep into some of these conversations, as we frequently come from very different perspectives on things, but in the end, there is always a beer being hoisted



great bunch of people here, and in the end, it's all about the car
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#26

When the shop replaced my front pads last time (Last time being not too long ago, and I'm still on those pads), they must have put in something cheap, or whatever. I have so much dust coming out the front now, and the breaks squeal when cold. Bad enough that it sounds like it's metal on metal. I haven't gone to any DEs or done anything that would require me to push my breaks to the limit either, so I doubt they're fried.



Ideally I would like to get the big break kit from Paragon. You mention having good breaks, I guess big cross drilled are better than stock <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



My question is, what is the difference between those three pad options? Street? Orange? Black? I'm guessing it has something to do with the materials used, anyone want to elaborate? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#27

Well it sounds almost certainly as if you've got pretty race oriented pads. They squeal and throw lot's of dust. They may be a bit unresponsive when cold too, but they should pull you up well too when your nice and warm.

As for cross drilled or as some refer to them as 'Join the dots' there is varied opinions of them out there and you'll find a lot of the performance aftermarket rotor manufacturers use slotted ones instead.
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