[SILVY968]

I was just ready a post on another site that said that one of the easiest things to do for a DIY is brake pad replacement.

The only info that I could find was on Clark's Garage.

For me, as she is my DD, I would feel better if I had pictures to look at as well as a procedure written specifically for our cars. I do not want to break or make a mistake in such an important area.

Anyone have pics on file or a link to somewhere with some visual help?

Maybe the information that I want can be found in a document associated with caliper changes?

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[Dave]

Pretty good pictures in this link to the Caliper Rebuild process. I would be happy to provide some dialog around this if needed...



http://vista.pca.org/sch/tech_articles/cal...per_rebuild.htm

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[Brian]

that's the one i used, too.

very helpful.

it really is easy to do.



make sure you torque the caliper retaining bolts to their spec. you really have to crank them.



also, if you're removing pistons, a little silicone o ring sealer on the seals helps a ton when you're re-installing your pistons. the seals tore pretty easily on mine.

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[Eric_K]

It is a pretty straight forward job. With a race car, I get to do it alot. I'm also in the Seattle area, so let me know if you need any help.



Eric

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[flash]

i'd recommend picking up new sensors and those clippy things - than, if you screw the old ones up and can't reuse them, your'e covered - if you can reuse them, you can return the new ones - at least then, since it's a DD, you're not down waiting for some dumb part



if you haven't done it already, this would be a great time to change your brake lines and/or flush the system with the power bleeder

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[Dave]

Good point, forgot about the wear sensors. Like Eric, I change them so often that wear sensors are just another item to burn up.



I think you were just looking to change pads, right? If so, just a few of the instructions in the link apply, along with handy pictures.



DO make sure the pad retaining spring is hooked on and closed when you're done. I am embarrassed to admit that I had one spring open on me at a track event. DOH! Makes for very interesting pad wear, as you can imagine.

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[flash]

another thought - while i am not an advocate of just changing pads, and prefer to at least turn the rotors, i know plenty of guys that do it - check the rotors carefully for flatness and such - doing just a pad slap can result in premature wear and uneven braking if the rotors had any issues



this would also be a good time to check your front bearings

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[Dave]

I just change pads, never turn rotors. If they need turning, they're likely cheaper than the pads <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Silvy968 - We've given you too much info, I am sure. What pads are you putting in? OEM, MetalMasters, exotic performance pads? Just curious.

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[flash]

there's an upside to not turning - you have more material to disapate heat



but, rotors cheaper than the pads? either you have a fantastic source on rotors, and you need to turn me on to that, or i need to turn you on to my pad source - i think even the porterfields were only 80 bucks for the fronts, and the best rotor price i can find is 90 each



as long as the rotors are flat and smooth, i don't see a big deal - i'm not real confortable with putting new pads on rotors with grooves though - the uneven heating has always resulted in uneven and premature wear any time i've tried it, not to mention the hundred miles or so not having the best braking, because it has to wear back into the old rotor pattern first



i get mine turned for 20 bucks each (because they are drilled - 10 for standard ones)



the big downside is the extra day of running the stuff around, leaving the car up in the air and out of commission



pads are cheap, so dave could have the best answer for a DD, since the cost of turning and down time could easily outweigh any cost of brake life lost



anyway, as dave points out, we've given you a lot more than you probably needed - back to the original question, the job itself is pretty straight forward and normal

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[Dave]

Pagid Blacks here. They are way more expensive than the rotors, unfortunately...



But they stop like stink, time and again, charging down into T5 at Road America <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[flash]

oof - lol - well alrighty then - yes, that's a whole different world of hurt

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[SILVY968]

Dave,



That link is just what I wanted. thanks.



I am running D951 MTX pads now and I am considering going to MetalMasters. The dust on chrome wheels is a chore that I would like to avoid.



ERIC,

thanks for the offer, if I get in trouble I'll PM you. I work in lower Queen Anne and live in Sammamish on the plateau.



Flash,

Rotors are recent OEM units, so no worries there. Good idea to get new clips, just in case. Flush done last year, big surprise when clutch was done to see that clutch fluid was black.



Thanks for all of the help.

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[flash]

cool - watch those sensors - fragile - you can save yourself some decent dough if you can save them (if the light already came on, at least one is toast)

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[SILVY968]

New sensors went in on the last brake job, so I'm probably cool. Old ones are brittle.

No red lights, just dust.

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[rxter]

My local mech won't turn rotors. Says that the "german" cars have think rotors and if they are worn they need to be replaced. I typically turn rotors in other cars at least once, usually twice and get 20 - 30 out of a set of pads, which means that the rotors are good for 40 minimum.



Do I need a different mech? This guy is soooo convenient.

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[flash]

again, i think your mechanic is a sissy - lol



he's "sort of" right. porsche rotors don't leave a lot of room for surfacing. pretty much any significant wear puts them out of spec. you have to measure the rotors to see where you are, and whether or not they can be surfaced.



another thing to consider is that the thinner the rotor, the less capacity for heat dissipation. depending on how you drive, this could be a consideration.

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[DaveN]

The grapevine has always told me not to turn 944/968 rotors, waste of money. If they are worn or warped it's best to replace. I learned that lesson on my S2, turning didn't fix the wobble just cost a lot as they were harder to turn than a regular car for some reason.

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[flash]

brake rotors almost NEVER warp. many shops will say they are warped, but in reality is is a myth and is almost always deposits.



they do wear though, and since the rotors are already thin, when they do there isn't much room for surfacing.

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[jg968]

I'll second what Flash said about the wear sensor clips. Had my pads out and cleaned the guide rails and re-applied caliper grease to those rails and a small amount to the rear of the pad. My brake squeal problem is now HISTORY! That was really bugging me so I'm happy that solved the problem.



But those dang clips. As careful as I was trying to be, I still cracked one.

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[rxter]

Oky doky. I'll have the rotors measured. I really was not budgeting for new rotors - arghhhhh.......



Anyone put the RS4 pads on OEM rotors? Given how soft the OEM pads are I wonder if the RS4s will chew threw what's left of the rotors.

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