[lyonlance]

Hi Everyone!



As detailed in my previous post, I have recently replaced my clutch at home with success, but am having some difficulty <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> getting an acceptable result regarding the bleeding of the hydraulic clutch system.



I have a power bleeder that I use, and first bled the air out of the slave cylinder at the clutch housing.



Getting a clutch that let out pretty much at the end of the pedal travel I ran another 1/2 liter of fluid through the system, pumping the pedal as I went, and found a couple of additional bubbles. The result was better, but not what I had hoped for.



On my 951 I would usually get an additional bubble out of the line at the firewall, where the line has a fitting as it passes through the firewall just under the hood and adjacent to the fuse and relay box. I tried this location as well, but can't seem to chase out any more air.



Does anyone have experience with the bleeding procedure for the 968's? Any help would be appreciated!



Lance

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[flash]

this is a common problem - bed design



most of us now use the Motive power bleeder - no pumping at all - in fact, pumping is what often causes bubbles - you just charge the Motive to about 11 psi and crack the screw loose - no involvement with the pedal at all



it is wise to do the brakes at the same time, since they share the same reservoir

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[Brian]

i'm not a pro...

i just used a power bleeder and the bleed valve under the car. my bleed valve was very messy, but basically just bled it until the color of fluid changed.



i'm sure the more experienced guys will have more wisdom than that...

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[bibbetson]

The route that the lines takes is very complex and has a tendency to hold air if you don't use a lot of pressure. If you are just bleeding for clean fluid, then the basic procedure is fine, but if you opened the lines or let air in, then you need to get more aggressive. This is the procedure my mechanic gave me: Pump the power bleeder up to 20 PSI. Perform a standard bleed until the fluid looks clean. As a final measure have someone pump the clutch pedal with the system pressurized and bleed a few more times. This will usually dislodge any extra difficult air.

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[Dave]

If that doesn't work...



An ace P-car mechanic had me do this with a clutch had gotten air into it once and was not responding to my usual power-bleed...



Gravity bleed the slave under the car for about 30+ minutes. You heard right. Fill the reservoir and check it from time to time. It is SLOW as watching grass grow, but it did manage to get the last air out of mine.



I followed this with a bit of 'pump the pedal' bleeding and all was good. Worth trying if you do are still having issues after the input above.

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[bob blackwell]

Lance, I bled mine last April also using the Motive power brake bleeder and had to pump the pedal while it was bleeding down to get and acceptable pedal too. I do not have a lot of patience, but that is what is required to get this job done right. I even took a break and went back after a cold beer to finish the job. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[Dave]

Beer break = The missing link in the sequence. I can't believe we didn't hit upon this earlier <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[lyonlance]

The beer may have been why the air got into the line in the first place....

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[BruceWard]

Have you tried driving it and then bleeding again. My clutch did not feel perfect after changing the clutch and fluid but after driving 20 miles or so felt great. I suspect that some break in and heat cycles may help if you do not have too much air in there.

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[Eric_K]

I find unleashing a few expletives can help too. That and bleeding it again after some use.

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[Dave]

As one empties the beer cans, throwing these at the offending car while flinging a barrage of expletives at it will likely induce some level of obedience.



If not, at least you'll feel better!

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