[lyonlance]

Hi Everyone!



I'm new to this forum as I am a new 968 owner. I've driven a 944 Turbo for the last 6 years and have just acquired a '94 968 with 115K miles at a good price.



My clutch pedal has a rough feet to it, almost as if something is gauling or "squeeking" as it travels, and the pressure required is more stiff than my 951.



I did a search in this forum, but didn't find anything that directly applied.



Is anyone familiar with this? Thanks in advance for your help!



Lance

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[Greimann]

Welcome Lance!



I guess it is the clutch fork shaft that has brinelled. At that mileage you are due for a new shaft and needle bearings. Hopefully the picture link below works.

http://www.968forums.com/index.php?act=Att...pe=post&id=1165

it could also be the bushings around the clutch pedal pivot too, or a combination of those.

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[lyonlance]

Thanks, Greimann.



After posting I went out to check something, and found that it only occurs when the engine is running. When the engine is off, the travel is normal pressure and no rough feel to it, but when the engine is running it's there.



I'm sure the shaft is either the same or similar to the one in my 951, and it would seem to me that the brindling of the shaft would effect the travel whether the engine was running or not.



I wonder what is going on when the engine is running that isn't going on when the engine is still?



Lance

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[Greimann]

Well then it is either the throw out bearing, or the clutch disk that is getting old and notchy.

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[SILVY968]

I had the same issue on my 968.

I started a topic in TECHNICAL called "Clutch vibration Thru the Pedal, vibration in clutch pedal"

Located on Page 5 of the Technical Posts.

Reading thru it may help you decide what your problem is, but based upon your post it sounds like you have the exact same problem that I had.

I had a bad pressure plate spring that caused the same symptoms that you have.

Long story short, new clutch kit...$ 1,300 by PM. DIY for about $ 600.

Make sure that the clutch cylinder fluid has been changed, most brake fluid changes by PM's overlook it.

Brian

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[lyonlance]

Thanks, Brian.



After reading through the string of posts it does look as though we have (had) the same problem. My only question is how is it different when running than when still?



This will become a nice weekend project!



Lance

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[Greimann]

[quote name='lyonlance' date='Nov 21 2005, 11:55 PM']...

This will become a nice weekend project!



Lance

[right][post="12647"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

Being a 944 owner you know the clutch replacemet process on the 968 has been greately improved. It is only a 5 hour job - celebration beer included.

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[SILVY968]

The rumble in the clutch pedal was the same running or still, as long as the rpm's were high enough to feel the out of balance condition. Anything over 3K gave the same pedal feel regardless of anything else.

Make sure to flush the clutch fluid when you R&R the clutch.

The difference will be well worth it.

Brian

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[lyonlance]

[quote name='Greimann' date='Nov 22 2005, 08:21 AM']Being a  944 owner you know the clutch replacemet process on the 968 has been greately improved. It is only a 5 hour job - celebration beer included.

[right][post="12655"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



You've got that right! The Turbo is even worse than the regular 944! While I was at it I replaced some syncros in my transaxel, which made the project a full two-weekend headache! I'm almost looking forward to this one!



Lance

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[BruceWard]

The 968 Clutch is easy. Since you have changed one on a 951 you will have no problem at all <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



I have some pictures from changing my clutch online at http://968.2ward.com/index.php?ALBUM=ServiceAndRepair

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[smshirk]

[quote name='BruceWard' date='Nov 22 2005, 08:36 PM']The 968 Clutch is easy.  Since you have changed one on a 951 you will have no problem at all <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



I have some pictures from changing my clutch online at http://968.2ward.com/index.php?ALBUM=ServiceAndRepair

[right][post="12676"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]





Mine was super stiff, until it basically exploded. Now that I have new clutch kit and machined the flywheel, it is easier, but still way to stiff for stop and go traffic. How difficult to replace parts in the pivot? Are there any adjustments that can be done?

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[Greimann]

[quote name='smshirk' date='Dec 16 2005, 05:49 AM'].... but still way to stiff for stop and go traffic. How difficult to replace parts in the pivot? Are there any adjustments that can be done?

[right][post="13454"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

You mean the fork pivot or the pedal pivot? The fork parts are pretty easy to get to if you have been into the clutch already. While I haven't done mine, the pedal pivot looks like a bear to get to. One thing I did notice is when the HVAC blower assembly (in the engine compartment) is removed, you are staring right at the pedals through the big hole. It would be easy to work on the pedals through that hole. A lot easier than upsidedown and backwards on the floor of the car.



Another adjustment that you might try is cranking up the preload on the clutch pedal booster spring. That is a spring that is attached to the triangular plastic part that is attached to the clutch pedal. There is a spring in there that helps push on the pedal on the way down and also keeps it up in the rest position. There is a nut that you can crank down that effectively increases the push that spring gives to make the pedal feel lighter.



If you go too far with the spring pressure, the pedal might not return all the way up to the rest position, so you have to hook it with your toe, but the car will still drive OK.

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[lyonlance]

Success!! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> Well, I have completed the clutch replacement, and while I was under the car I also replaced all of the front-end seals on the crank and balance shaft housings, and re-sealed the lower balance shaft housing cover to clear up some oil leaks.



The pivot shaft for the release lever fork seems to have been the real problem area, and the recesses shown in earlier posts was evident, as well I am sure, as relatively flattening out of the needle-bearings inside the fork. These were all replaced and the clutch is smooth and easy. My only consternation was that I couldn't find anyone who could re-surface my dual-mass flywheel, and the replacement cost me over $1,000!! In addition to the cost of the clutch parts, that hurt!



I'm going to post a separate question regarding the bleeding of the clutch, since it lets out pretty close to fully depressed and I know I must have some air in the line that I can't seem to chase out.



Thanks for all the information and advice along the way!



Lance

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