[MCL968]

Who else remembers Bill's Art Car?

 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flwbyu]

That's great

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

Well that's most certainly one-of-a kind!!

 

I'm very pleased to say my ankle is sufficiently well to do a bit of twisting and turning so I was able to do some basic work today.....

 

Headlights .... thanks Chap for reminding me, I greased up the raise/lower mechanism and now it moves fairly silently; before it sounded like the front door of the Adam's family.  (I checked the local CT (MOT) site, and yes  it's open, so now I need to get the wipers sorted)

 

Wiper system .... ascertained the motor and controller works on all speeds, so now I need to trace back to the hood alarm wiring to see where it has shorted out.  CAN ANYONE TELL ME if it is easier to raise the fuse box from the top in order to examine the wiring, or should I go in from underneath??  To go in underneath I must remove the steering wheel else I am not physically able to get in there.  I have no worries about that as I need to replace the odometer gear, so although removing the steering wheel in technically unnecessary for that job, it does afford more space.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[MCL968]

Well that's most certainly one-of-a kind!!

 

I'm very pleased to say my ankle is sufficiently well to do a bit of twisting and turning so I was able to do some basic work today.....

 

Headlights .... thanks Chap for reminding me, I greased up the raise/lower mechanism and now it moves fairly silently; before it sounded like the front door of the Adam's family.  (I checked the local CT (MOT) site, and yes  it's open, so now I need to get the wipers sorted)

 

Wiper system .... ascertained the motor and controller works on all speeds, so now I need to trace back to the hood alarm wiring to see where it has shorted out.  CAN ANYONE TELL ME if it is easier to raise the fuse box from the top in order to examine the wiring, or should I go in from underneath??  To go in underneath I must remove the steering wheel else I am not physically able to get in there.  I have no worries about that as I need to replace the odometer gear, so although removing the steering wheel in technically unnecessary for that job, it does afford more space.

There was a thread years ago about removing the fuse box to check the connections on the bottom. Their car had (if I remember correctly) been through a flood of some sort and it had a lot of rust on the bottom of the fuse box. The process seemed pretty simple; it just lifted straight up and out.

 

Good luck with the repair and do take some pictures. I have never heard of that wire failing in that manner, but I suppose anything is possible. My airbag problem turned out to be a bad connection, so that could be your problem as well.

 

Before I went to that level of intervention I would first double check everything else. Fuses, relays, etc. Eliminate the easy stuff, then go deep. 

 

Last point, I had the strangest problem years ago with my heater controller for the hot water valve. It would open at random times and fill the cabin with hot air. Turned out to be my ignition switch. Once it was replaced that problem disappeared completely.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

The hood alarm is the micro switch on the bonnet lock mech


There is a small plastic clip with two prongs that goes through the switch and makes it locate and stay still, the end of the pins snap off and the switch rotates turning on the under bonnet light and triggering the alarm


Part number for the plastic pin thingy is 911.613.417.00 £1.49


The fuse box can be lifted quite high, take the lid off and you will see two big plastic cross head screws in the corners, undo those they dont come right out and lift the whole lot

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

Thanks guys.  This, I believe, is the source of the problem.  Shortly after I had exchanged the lower grill on the front bumper the hood alarm wires shorted out and the wipers stopped working.

 

Now fuse 24 (the wiper feed) blows immediately.

 

When I separate out the plug/socket and apply 12v to the wiper side all works okay, so the wiper driver side is good.  I need to find where the SC is happening.

 

   

 

So this picture shows what you might like to guard against..... I would recommend surrounding your hood alarm wires with fresh new rubber/insulation, ie new separation from the hood cable, and maybe a little grease in there too.

 

The metal cable that is the emergency hood pull shares the same grommet as the hood alarm wires.  I recall pulling on that cable a few times when under the car affixing the grill, and I suspect that it cut through (or nearly) the 25yr old alarm wires at that time. creating a continuous earth.  You can see the alarm wires are fried.

 

I shall look under the fuse-box today and see how that goes.  Fortunately fuse 24 is on the wing side so should be easier (!) to access.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Rap]

I watched the “ Art of driving in the rain” which reaffirmed the reason I drive sports cars. Pure love and a shiteating grin are an  Undeniable  result of buckling up and pressing the throttle.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Kaj Hallstrom]

 
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:15360]
From our West Coast Gathering to the town of Mendocino a few years back.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[netopyer]

3D scanned the rear+front cam cover, gonna produce few on CNC, from  proper grade aluminium

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[ds968]

That’s great !   :clap:   I believe those parts are NLA,  so perhaps there is hope after all , for some other components which if not already the NLA list, will  slowly but surely be eventually impossible to find, either new or used... 

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

They are still available but the two parts are $800 plus

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[netopyer]

do you think there will be interest? i am not  planning to make a fortune from that, more like help other fellow 968+944S2+944S people

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

Fixed my windscreen wiper problem, but I think I should should move it over to electrical gremlins ......

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[J.Elenbaas]

I replaced my sparks, leads, distributor and rotor.

Also replaced the front wheel bearings and the stabilizer bar rubbers and mounts.

Then i changed the front brake rotors and pads and refreshed the fluid.

After all of this i placed new front tyres and needed a new battery after 8 years of service.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

Thats a fairly expensive Saturday

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Roboman]

I replaced my sparks, leads, distributor and rotor.

Also replaced the front wheel bearings and the stabilizer bar rubbers and mounts.

Then i changed the front brake rotors and pads and refreshed the fluid.

After all of this i placed new front tyres and needed a new battery after 8 years of service.

What are you on J? I'd be pleased to get 1/4 of that done on a single day, well done!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Kaj Hallstrom]

Ordered a set of Stoptech drilled and slotted rotors plus pads for the rear. Ready for some summer work on the car. $235 plus tax and the wear sensors only $7. Shipping free except for the sensors. Did the front last year, as you remembered, and now ready for the rear.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Waylander]

they are 3 times that price here, I can see Stoptech for sale on ebay in the UK, front non M030 are £500 plus shipping which is $100

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[J.Elenbaas]

What are you on J? I'd be pleased to get 1/4 of that done on a single day, well done!

 

Hahaha Roboman, it took me a few days work as well.

Mostly only the afternoons, when the sun heated up things.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[J.Elenbaas]

I have replaced mine which were i believe Textar rotors and pads for ATE rotors (€ 148,66 together with wear sensors and 1.5ltr ATE brake fluid) with the original Porsche pads 951.351.939.08 (€ 86,09)

 

The old rotors didn't brake that good and were not straight anymore, so hopefully after the brake in period i have more stopping power.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.