[Rap]

Speedy get well. Having witnessed this in my own family avail yourself, if able, of all resources in your road to recovery!

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[az968]

Kaj, my friend, do take care of yourself and best thoughts for a full recovery! This was not good to hear! I wish nothing but the best of health for the coming year to all our Forum Friends!

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

Thanks for all your kind words gentlemen. Yes I do keep a low profile. I am told to exercise  my left arm and hand, so now I need a 968 with the steering wheel on the right side so I can shift with my left!!.....just kidding!. Actually there is already some improvement in my left arm and leg. Walking back to normal and the numbness is now limited to my left little finger. Things are looking up. Took the 968 out for a little cruise yesterday as she was crying to get out of her cage. No issues with the clutch.

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[94SilverCab]

Kaj, we all hope for the best for you and for a quick recovery. And if you need someone to drive your car to keep the battery charged, all you need to do is ask!

 

Hi Kaj,

 

I just saw this. Hope that you will have a speedy recovery and that you are back to all things 968 in no time flat.

 

Jay

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[tejon007]

Kaj, My very best wishes for a continued speedy and complete recovery!

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[lbpesq]

Kaj, good vibes coming your way from the East Bay for a swift and complete return to full health.


Bill

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

Mobility coming back. Feeling much better in both arm and leg. Thank you for all your nice thoughts.

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[Rap]

Once you’re completely recovered and tip top you do realize that all of these nice and warm wishes end?

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

The brake replacement project is slowly back on track. I feel well enough to continue. Today I did a complete brake inspection. I like to know what I am up against before I order parts. I decided to replace the rotors as well in the front. As you can see from the pictures a complete (as expected) cleaning job of the calibers and surroundings is necessary. I will order drilled and slotted rotors brake cleaning and brake grease...........to be continued

 

 [attachment 15793:IMG_1856.JPG]

   

   

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[MCL968]

It's an easy job, Kaj. You will be fine. Consider throwing on some stainless steel lines while you are in there. The fronts are a snap to change, the rears are a bit of a challenge, but it becomes easier of the back of the car is up higher than yours is in the pictures. And don't forget to pressure bleed the system once you are done.

After doing it on my car, I would not mess with the pad sensor connection on the strut. If your sensors are good, and you remove them from the pad without incident, just reinstall them and leave that connector alone.

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[Waylander]

Please put that axle stand in a better place, it's only on the small square that's a jacking point, not only are the points weak they are also very slippery.


The car could very easily slide off that as your only using 1

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

Yes indeed, I was not happy with the placement of the stand as well. Will need to make some adjustments here. As for the wear sensors I agree. I will try to reuse them. I do have back ups (courtesy of Matt in Reno) just in case. When my friends down at HI-Tec Auto in San Rafael helped me with the stubborn lug nuts they did recommend new rotors. I will be participating in a PCA Redwood Zone 7 tech class Saturday that includes brake and rotor replacements. Never too old to learn something. After that I should be ready to order (parts) rotors. Did obtain brake component grease and cleaner today. Should get started next week.

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[flash]

i have only been able to reuse the sensors once in all the brake jobs i have done.  somehow i always seem to break at least one

 

i agree with pressure bleeding the system.  MOTIVE POWER BLEEDER!!!!!  you'll need it every 3 years anyway, when you have to flush the entire hydraulic system

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[tejon007]

Kaj,


Please be safe. I've been working on cars/trucks for many years and I am always crazy careful about jacking-up and securing any vehicle I'm gonna crawl under. Really glad to hear that you'll be attending a class. Really good idea. (I had my dad and the "school of necessity" to learn from)


My suggestion is to get either slotted or drilled rotors, but not both...as I think they look cheap. Here is a set of rear Zimmerman drilled rotors (I pick drilled rotors because I think they're sexier, not necessarily better performing...in fact, some have problems with cracks around the drilled holes - - me? I use them up and replace before those problems surface). I


These are identified as rear rotors:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-911-968-94...ect=mobile


Use new brake sensors...they're Only $6 each (these are identified as rear ones):


https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-PORSCHE-944...ect=mobile


Almost all shops will not turn (using a brake rotor lathe) drilled or slotted rotors, so understand that once they wear down, you need to replace. Stock rotors will therefore last a lot longer.


Enjoy the project
Please use a good respirator. You don't want to breathe the brake dust, road dirt, etc.

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[tejon007]

Hi Matt,


It's a relatively easy job, if you can remove that pesky recessed screw holding the rotor on...I had to drill it out of the last two 911 trailing arms I was working on & one of the last two 914 arms/rotors.

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[flash]

2 tips regarding the screws

 

 

1 - use an impact screwdriver to remove

 

2 - apply anti-seize when reinstalling (remember to use that on the lugnuts too)

 

as for rotors - i've had mixed results with the cross-drilled zimmermans - worked fine on my 968 but not on my 325.  the stop-tech rotors were better though, and already coated

 

slotting does a better job of exiting water, but they can be noisy as the pad crosses the slot.  drilling does a better job of cooling, but can crack if they get hot.

 

the stop-tech rotors with holes are cast in place, eliminating the issue of cracking

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[tejon007]

I hear you on the impact driver...tried one unsuccessfully this time, but sometimes they do...applying heat can work too. But not this time, these guys just didn't want to let go.


But, in the case of 45+ year-old cars with screws that have become one with the hub/rotor (rust/corrosion is going to happen, so I agree about anti-seize being std procedure)...A proper sized drill bit and some skill, you're on to the next step. Especially when the Philips head is totally chewed up to start with from prior removals of attempted removals. And , if you're replacing the rotor anyway, you don't have to be that careful (although I'm saving the rotors as they were still pretty serviceable.


New screws and anti-seize are really inexpensive compared to the time you can waste getting them off the next time.

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[az968]

Very happy with the Stop-Tech rotors and the Porterfield pads I put on my car. Stainless steel brake lines are a great idea, remimber the rubber lines are 25 years old and deteriorate from the inside so you can't see defects. Brake wear sensors are really inexpensive and the old ones will probable break when you remove them anyway. New screws for the rotors as John suggests is a great idea. MotivePowerbleeder is an inexpensive tool to have.Take your time. There's some posts on here on where to put the jacks, if you can't find it I can email it to you.

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[Kaj Hallstrom]

I tested the rotor screws when I did the wheel inspection. They where easy to remove and the whole brake unit in good shape except it was dusty. as for the wear sensors, no big deal, I have an extra pair. If they fail I will replace with new ones. Brake lines looks good, will inspect again.....So now we are just waiting for the StopTech units to arrive and some warm California sun to work in......well it will all be done in the garage anyway where I am close to cool beer and great music.

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[flash]

if you can't find documentation showing the brake lines have been changed, you can pretty much guarantee they are done.  if you see any darkening in the brake fluid, you'll know for sure.  as said above, they fail from the inside.  a visual inspection will do you no good, and frankly, if you see any cracking at all, or run your fingernail down the hose and it flakes at all, it means you needed to change them years ago.

 

this is why power flushing with a motive power bleeder, every 3 years, is so important.  it's the moisture that gets into the brake fluid that does the damage.  you really can't do this job without one of those.

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