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Reinstalling Transaxle --
#1

The body shop is just about done with my coupe.

There was some quarter panel welding involved -- which required removal of the entire backend (transaxle, subframe, suspension, gas tank..)



Are there any issues I should make them aware of when reinstalling the gearbox (the bearing issue had already been done by previous owner, but are there any torque issues or other I should make them aware of?)

I left the shop manual cd's with them for reference.



Also, what type of Trans Oil do you guys like to use?

Mobil 1 syn 75w-90?



Thanks!
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#2

if your fuel gauge needle floated around or behaved oddly, have them check the baffle plate in the fuel tank. it is known to pop loose and float around. since you have to drop the trans to get to it, this is the time.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#3

Will do - Thanks!

didn't float -- but would never show more than 3/4 full
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#4

that part is "normal" - while the tank is out, you could fiddle with the float though, and get it to read full. a quick bend of the arm would do it.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#5

I don't think there is a float arm to bend .



But had the same issue not reading full when full , cleaned contact's at the sender unit , and also cleaned all ground contact's thru the car at the same time .

This can also been done with the tank still in the car , just remove rear carpet and plastic lid to gain acces to the sender unit .

Mine is readng full now (when full) , so could have been a ground issue or bad connector .
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#6

hmmm. looking at the parts catalog it indeed looks like an odd configuration. my bad. that sucks.



i'm going to have to play around in there because my gauge is acting up. hard cornering makes the needle move around a lot. it's like a baffle has moved or something, which i understand happens. i was hoping the reading full issue would be simple like other tanks. i guess not.



i will clean the contacts first though before doing anything else.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#7

I think the design of the fuel tank is one of the problems , i lookes kind of wide but not very deep , so there is al lot off fuel displacement in corners .

Baffels would help i guess .

but the float is not adjustable , it is a float with a hole in the middle , it floats around a metal pole , with to very thin wires running down it als well .

So take care when taking it appart faggile stuff , has a couple contacts on the bottom , when contact closes you get your fuel warning light .

I put a S2 fuel sender in it once because i thougt the sender was bad and had one laying around , didn't work was really sinking way further in corners , full reading was oke .

But cleaning connector and ground wires solved it for me .
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#8

yeah - pretty sure that if that doesn't resolve my problems, that i am just going to live with it. i'm not inclined to drop the tank
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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