[Cloud9...68]

I'm about to install my new clutch high pressure braided steel line that I just received from RS Barn, and am simultaneously replacing the master and slave cylinders as a further preventative measure. For those out there who have done this, are there any suggestions make the job go as smoothly as possible? RS Barn included very nice instructions with the line, and it seems straightforward enough, plus I would hope that having the master cylinder out will be an advantage. Any specific recommendations/pitfalls to avoid? Thanks.

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[PorscheDude]

Best advice is to use a power bleeder. The clutch can be a pain the ass to bleed.



The master is also a pain because of limited clearance for wrench access. When putting the nuts back on the master, I put a piece of tape across a box end wrench to hold the nut so I can it them started.

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[josephsc]

I did it recently -- and wished that I had also replaced the blue line to the reservoir. Also wished that I had gotten the master cylinder gasket (to firewall). There's simply no way that I am ever getting back in there again! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Have some useful tools handy for the master cylinder bolts -- magnetic pickup tools and extra M6 nuts (you'll drop a few trying to get it going. A 1/4" drive universal joint worked for me.



I installed the SS line to the master on the bench, rather than struggling with limited space in there.



The SS line connects to a hard line underneath the car, above the clutch bellhousing. Soak it in PB Blaster (or other penetrant) overnight to loosen up those nuts first. You do not want to risk stripping those nuts.

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[Cloud9...68]

Hmmm... Sounds pretty painful. Fortunately, in a rare moment of foresight, I remembered to order the master cylinder gasket, so I'm OK there. I didn't, however, think about the blue line to the reservoir. Oh, well...



Thanks for the recommendation to have extra M6 nuts handy. I do have a magnetic pick-up tool, but not a 1/4" drive universal joint. I'll get some penetrant on the way home tonight to soak the nuts on the hard line.



I do have a power bleeder, so this should help, but I've heard that sometimes the power bleeder alone doesn't get all the air out, and that the use of the manual method is sometimes needed to finish the job. I guess I'll find out.



Thanks for all the tips. Sounds like I'm in for a grand old time <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[flash]

it's really pretty easy



i DO NOT recommend installing the line on the bench - i said so very clearly in the instructions, having played with it both ways first, and see the potential for problems



obviously it can work , but you have to be very careful, and i did not want to get the phone calls from those who weren't - just take the small amount of extra time and move the hoses and such out of the way - it is MUCH easier in the car than on the bench, and you don't run the risk of side-loading the line and cracking it as you snake the master into its spot - don't force the threads - thread it on by hand and only bring the tool into play to tighten



it is really very easy if you follow the instructions



big tip - have a beer open and ready

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks for the clarification, Flash. I'll install the new master first, as you recommend. If I remember, I'll try to take some pictures along the way, and post them, if it looks like this will help others. And thanks again for your work in the development of this line.

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[flash]

no worries - please feel free to call pete or myself if you need to



just remember to be patient as you are bent over the car - getting the fittings to line up takes a light touch and the realization that you are looking at compound angles, so what you think is "straight" may not be - let the threads find themselves



p.s. - you will need a couple of new tie wraps to replace the ones you had to cut as you are moving the hoses out of the way

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[Tom in Austin]

Don't forget Jason at Paragon Parts in Corpus. He sent me a length of the blue line for something like $2 and shipping up to Austin is automaticaly next-day with UPS, so no reason not to include in your project.

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[JWahlsten]

I got a few feet of the blue hose at the local European car parts place. It should be easy enough to find locally...

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks for the tips on the blue line. After about a half hour of work, I got the master off (the nuts connecting it to the firewall were barely more than finger tight!), and the line off the front of the master. Ready to get back to it as soon as I log off. Man, it sure is tight in there. I was able to move a few of the lines out of the way, but most of them are immovable, and/or go deep into the car's nether regions. Next step is disconnecting it at the pedal...

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