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Oil leak at transaxle
#1

I have some fresh seepage coming from the left side of the transaxle just inboard of the first boot/flange. Looking at the parts diag. I'm thinking it's coming from the "shaft seal" p/n 999.113.347.40.



This just showed up after a performance driving day on a track where the car was driven modestly hard but did take some 90+ deg corners fairly aggressively. There is the normal old/semi-dry seepage signs on both sides of the transaxle but the issue I'm concerned about is fresh.



1) is this a common problem?

2) is it a sign of another more serious problem?

3) could a CV joint failure cause this seal to fail (I've never had the pleasure of dealing w/ CV joints, at least not yet).

4) Is this a DIY job or is this best reserved for an experienced wrench (do I need a special puller for the flange)?



TIA
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#2

I got the problem but it's very minor so I just live with it. I could never figure out if it was an easy or complex fix so I dropped it.



Harvey
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#3

normal seepage? i don't have any of that, and you shouldn't either - i'd change them



an oil leak of any kind on a track is bad for those around you - gear oil is the worst - if you were racing, the steward would black flag you for any signs of leakage, with good reason - that's why you have to run catch bottles on everything - we had a real issue with one of the MGs - danged thing kept building pressure and blowing out seals - we got black flagged 3 races in a row - leak was just as you describe - unfortunately a touch would hit the tailpipe and we all know how long that will smoke



on a street car, the risk and damage issues are certainly lessened, but the idea is the same - a leak is not good - there is no easy way to tell how much gear oil you have left, how long it's been doing it, or how much you have lost



i expect to see a lot more boot issues popping up soon - they are rubber after all, and subject to the same age failures as the rest of the rubber parts on the car



as for a cv joint failure, a bad boot can quickly lead to failure, because dirt and crap gets in there and screws it up, but it's pretty easy to check - you'll have play in there if it's going
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#4

Flash, I don't want to be lectured about the dangers of an oil leak on the track. I thought it would be understood from the questions in my post that I want to fix the problem, I just want to know how difficult a job it is to do and whether it might be something more than just the oil seal.



FYI, I've already ordered the "Shaft Seals" p/n 999.113.347.40, one for each side. I'm wondering if I should have ordered bolts for the CV Joint flange too.



Is there a manual that helps with this?
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#5

i wasn't trying to come off as lecturing - i was answering your question in detail "is it a sign of another more serious problem?" - on the track, yes it is - seepage is NOT normal - those things should be bone dry and clean, but on a street car, it is generally more tolerable



i can't seem to find a section in either the 944 or the 968 manuals that covers boot or seal changing



the book calls for 2.6 hours to R&R and overhaul the axle assembly
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#6

When a transaxle or differential seal fails, I always check the breather port. Under heavy use, internal pressure builds with heat and if the beather is blocked, the only other way out is through the seal.

Unfortunately I'm not really sure where the port is located on the G44, although it has to be somewhere along the top...
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