[sguy]

Having just acquired my 968 two weeks ago, I don't have long experience, but almost 3,000 miles on the car already. After I picked up the car in Detroit, the oil was fresh and full and I monitored it closely for the 2,300 mile trip home. Almost no oil consumption was detectable. However, over this weekend's DE The car consumed about 1 Qt for about 250 miles on the track and 340 miles of driving to and from. I also think the high RPM up and down pulls oil through the engine, but not excessively, or is the 135 MPH? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Now if I could just wipe that smile off my face I could get back to work <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Cheers,

Stephen Guy (one happy 968 owner)

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[flash]

2300 mile trip home - sounds a lot like my trip - where is home?

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[sguy]

hI Flash,

I'm in Moscow, Idaho, about 1500 miles away from you. This is a big country. The suprise of the weekend was another 968 at the DE in Spokane. He is located in B.C. and recently aquired his car about 6 months ago -a B/B '94. It is also a small world and it's good that many owners use the cars.



Cheers,

Stephen

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[flash]

lol - well, swinging the dividers took me here, there, or cuba, so i had a shot

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[douglas751]

Steve,



Take some new photos of your car for us. Do you have any photographs from the track?



How did the brakes hold out at your DE? Did you use the Pilot Cup Sport or the PS2 tires?



Thanks!



-Doug

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[sguy]

Hi Doug,



I did not take any photos myself, just too busy driving and changing brake pad, but there were some photo's taken and I'll try to get them to post.



I had ordered brake pads form Pete at RS barn two weeks before the DE, and because he did not have them in stock, they arrived Friday before the event. They are the pads he recommends for combined track/street. I put them on Friday and yes, I did take the Cup tires to change at the track. I was placed in the advanced group for the DE and proceeded to learn the car. These are very rewarding cars to drive fast and the tires are easy to drive fast. I did take the tread all the way down on the fronts on the outside 1/3 of the tires. I might flip them for further track use.



The pads bite fairly well, and have adequate fade resistance, but still aren't as good as I would have liked for stopping performance. At the end of the first day, I changed the tires to the street tires, and the front pads were complete gone, worn out in about 100 miles of track driving on a track that is very hard on brakes. So, I get home and put back on the Mintex pads for the next day. They are complete junk for the track, no stopping power and temp. tolerance. I then changed the RS barn pads from the rear to the front and I had some braking, but took it easy the second day for braking. And they were gone by the end of the second day. The short story is, on a track that needs brakes, use track pads. I'll try Porterfield R-4's next time and they should give better stopping, temp. tolerance, and wear.



I still haven't had a chance to clean up the car after the DE, so no home beauty pictures for a while.



Cheers,

Stephen Guy

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[ds968]

My "new" 968 consumed almost 1.5 quarts in the last 700 miles. By comparison, the six speed consumes about 1 quart every 1000 miles ( IIRC ) Both have about 110,000 miles on them, both have had heads rebuilt 3 years, and 4 years ago, so in those two respects they are similar. Oil pressure in both cars is consistently excellent, the tip's oil temperature is also exactly where it should be, so not sure why the material difference between the two cars, particularly since the six speed is generally driven a lot harder. I' m not overly concerned; there is no smoke, nor any signs of leaks or oil in the coolant, or anything of the sort...still, should I be a little concerned about this consumption ?

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[flash]

??? it didn't use a much more than a drop all the way from new mexico. ring me up.

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[gbarrier]

My experience has been that it's not how hard you drive them but how often you drive them. A daily driver doesn't consume much while same car sitting and driven every week or two does. Has anyone else seen this trend?

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[Tom030]

Changed the oil & filter on 2/13 at 122,500 prior to Paso Robles. Currently the mileage is 126,900 oil is down between 1/8 and 1/4 of an inch. Head has never been off, stock except for RSBarn chip. No track but several a/x's.

~tom

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[DaveN]

Freshly rebuilt engine uses 1 L every 1500 km's. Before the SC it used 0 between changes.

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[ds968]

Ok, recalculation shows that it was actually about 850 miles, not 700 . A bit better perhaps but still warrants checking a few things ; talked to flash today so I'll have a look at the oil/air separator hose next . I already checked the oil cap ring which appears to be in good shape.

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[cosimo]

I used to add 1/2 every 1000 miles. I have been using Motul and now it's at least 1500 - 2000 miles. I also had oil leaks and now there are none.

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[flash]

i suspect dan has a vacuum leak. the vacuum gauge reads a bit low, he is going through oil with no signs of a leak, and there is a bit of a cold start issue that just popped up. i suspect a cracked or unseated vacuum hose in a secondary system (AOS, ICV, etc).



as a reference, my car does not burn oil at all. i just did an oil change, and it was full when i changed it, having added no oil since the build a few thousand miles ago.



these cars should not burn much oil. i know the manual says that higher consumption is still within spec, but typically a half quart every 1000 miles or so is "normal". sitting long periods between runs will cause the rings to unseat a bit, and it will take a while to reseat them. in the meantime, oil is burned more. this is usually the first hundred or so miles. if you don't drive longer than that after sitting, it will just continue to burn oil each time you fire it up, until you do drive that far.



oil consumption can also be affected though by cam timing. the more overlap you have, the more oil you will burn, because the intake charge is hotter. this is one reason why timing the cams is so important in a belt change. unless corrected, the overlap increases with miles. often when somebody does a belt job, they fail to complete the process by timing the cams, as the manual tells you to, but don't because they don't have the dial indicators.



thinner oils burn more too. any zero weight oil will burn pretty easily. this is not a good oil for a car that sits. obviously you have to factor in the temperatures in your area, but the rule of thumb is not to go below a 10 weight at the bottom of the oil spec, and not to exceed a 30 weight margin between the low and high.



how dirty the oil is will also affect how much it burns. most of the "dirt" in the oil is unburnt fuel. this becomes more combustable the higher the quantity.



i hope that helps.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1383668745' post='151703']



oil consumption can also be affected though by cam timing. the more overlap you have, the more oil you will burn, because the intake charge is hotter. this is one reason why timing the cams is so important in a belt change. unless corrected, the overlap increases with miles. often when somebody does a belt job, they fail to complete the process by timing the cams, as the manual tells you to, but don't because they don't have the dial indicators.



[/quote]



Flash,



Given the limitations of the engine-in-the-car workshop method, do you think the average DIY'er, or even experienced mechanic, can time the cams accurately enough to make up for the impact on cam timing of the installation of a new timing belt? Especially given how often we're supposed to change belts on these cars, which I would think doesn't give them enough time to stretch a whole lot. Sounds like a good thing to recommend in theory, but I'm wondering how well it translates to practice. What's been your experience?



As for the topic, my car never used much oil, and since the rebuild, even after many hours on the track, the oil level has only gone down a millimeter or two. Maybe I lucked out and got the cam timing right!

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[flash]

yes, if they have the tools. it's not that hard, but you have to use the dial indicators.

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