[sp4149]

[quote name='MikeH' post='39386' date='Aug 3 2007, 12:31 PM']He also said there is no issue with resetting the trip meter while driving.[/quote]



I am probably one of those perpetuating the "Myth". When my gear broke, I had pushed the reset button while almost stopped (still moving, not quite stopped). The effect was instant. I also heard/felt a "click" when I pushed the button. Having read previous posts about not to reset the odometer while moving; I reached the same conclusion. I certainly don't intend to try and replicate the failure, it's easy enough to reset when completely stopped.



-sp4149



Note: When I was pushing the button: I had an "Oh S##t, I shouldn't have done that" moment. But the damage was done before I could stop.

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[Duckman]

It's amazing how long this thread has been running and my trip meter has finally caught up with it. My problem is a little different, though.



My odometer and trip meter and speedometer all work fine. My car's problem is that I cannot re-set the trip meter. It has always worked perfectly, including re-sets while moving, until it was last in the shop for service. While there my mechanic had replaced some dash lights.



So, is something disconnected or what???

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[Darryl]

[quote name='Duckman' post='39720' date='Aug 10 2007, 03:37 PM']It's amazing how long this thread has been running and my trip meter has finally caught up with it. My problem is a little different, though.



My odometer and trip meter and speedometer all work fine. My car's problem is that I cannot re-set the trip meter. It has always worked perfectly, including re-sets while moving, until it was last in the shop for service. While there my mechanic had replaced some dash lights.



So, is something disconnected or what???[/quote]



Upon re-assembly, the switch behind the air vent push button may have fallen down. There is a button that gets pressed by the air vent switch and it in turns sends a signal to a solenoid that "pulls" the lever on the reset mechanism...should be that simple. It's also easy to not get the solenoid plunger aligned when reinstalling the speedometer, but they shouldn't have had that apart to replace light bulbs...my guess is the switch.



- Darryl

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[Duckman]

Thanks, Darryl.

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[Anchorman]

I wouldn't rule out so quickly misalignment between the air vent push button and the switch. Removing the air vent/instrument surround could move the switch and result in a misalignment when reassembled. However, since either problem (bad switch or misalignment) requires the same dash disassembly, you should be able to find out which is the problem with no extra steps.

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[Duckman]

Very true. Good thinking, Jim.

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[JWahlsten]

Add me to the list of odometer failures. Just stopped working on the way home today (120 mile drive). I just ordered the gears off of odometergears.com, and will fix it next week...

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[Anchorman]

Tonight, my speedo and odometers stop working - for about two miles. Then the speedo needle bumped up and down, stopped again for a short distance, and then both started working. I've already replaced the "gear" so it seems that this must be electrical - I guess a ground issue. I'll have to remove the instrument cluster sometime, as I have had an erratic temp gauge that reads correctly when I rap on the top of the dash, so I guess these are related problems. Where's the suspect ground?

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[flash]

i would bet on one of the multi-pin connectors not being seated down all the way - they are a bit fussy - i had the same issue for a minute, until i figured it out

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[Anchorman]

That would be the first thing I look at. When I replaced the dash, one of the two locking levers on the multipin connector on the left side (the temperature gauge side) broke. I'll probably have to figure out some way of holding the male/female parts together better than just friction - hopefully I can get some tape or something in there.

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[flash]

yup - that's exactly how i developed my problem too

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[tloof]

When replacing the odometer gear does only the 12 tooth pod gear generally require replacement, or does the 15 tooth odometer drive gear also need to be replaced at the same time? In otherwords, for those of you that have done this did the 15 tooth drive gear look really worn or not? I ask this since both gears are $25 apiece, so I only want to buy the one that actually normally requires replacement upfront, otherwise I will have to pull the speedometer unit out temporarily just to check & see if both gears need replacement (extra work if so).

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[Darryl]

[quote name='tloof' post='41737' date='Sep 26 2007, 11:17 AM']When replacing the odometer gear does only the 12 tooth pod gear generally require replacement, or does the 15 tooth odometer drive gear also need to be replaced at the same time? In otherwords, for those of you that have done this did the 15 tooth drive gear look really worn or not? I ask this since both gears are $25 apiece, so I only want to buy the one that actually normally requires replacement upfront, otherwise I will have to pull the speedometer unit out temporarily just to check & see if both gears need replacement (extra work if so).[/quote]



I think I'd replace them both just on principle. Might be a good $25 insurance policy to avoid repetitive disassembly. Speaking of repetitive disassembly, I have an update on my problems that I've been meaning to post but haven't had much time lately. I've got mine working well enough to drive the car more and I think I may have pinpointed the actual problem, but to be sure, I have to dis-assmeble again!!



Anchorman - my temp guage was fixed by reseating the connector too...I detailed that in one of me previous odometer posts.



- Darryl

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[Anchorman]

No doubt I have to pull the instrument cluster. The only reason I've been procrastinating is that it means I have to pull the steering wheel as well. I know, I know, everyone's going to say that the cluster can be pulled with pulling the wheel. In my case, though, since I don't have the stock wheel, I know that I have to pull the wheel.

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[banditsc]

[quote name='tloof' post='41737' date='Sep 26 2007, 11:17 AM']When replacing the odometer gear does only the 12 tooth pod gear generally require replacement, or does the 15 tooth odometer drive gear also need to be replaced at the same time? In otherwords, for those of you that have done this did the 15 tooth drive gear look really worn or not? I ask this since both gears are $25 apiece, so I only want to buy the one that actually normally requires replacement upfront, otherwise I will have to pull the speedometer unit out temporarily just to check & see if both gears need replacement (extra work if so).[/quote]



The problem isn't so much wear, but deterioration. The plastic they used for the gears basically disintegrates, I heard some rumor at one point that the lube that they used on the gears caused some issue with the plastic that caused it to break down.

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[PorscheDude]

[quote name='Anchorman' post='41743' date='Sep 26 2007, 12:39 PM']No doubt I have to pull the instrument cluster. The only reason I've been procrastinating is that it means I have to pull the steering wheel as well. I know, I know, everyone's going to say that the cluster can be pulled with pulling the wheel. In my case, though, since I don't have the stock wheel, I know that I have to pull the wheel.[/quote]



I have managed to get my cluster out witout removing my MOMO steering wheel. There is enough room.

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[Anchorman]

That may be - but the manner in which I mounted my 996 wheel requires removal to remove the cluster.

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[cosimo]

Wow, there must be something thing in the air as I had my odometer go out. Finally got time from IMA to replace the gear and viola no fix! Chris suspects it is the motor that drives the odometer and mileage or the circuit board. I am going to have to wait as the PCA Club Race is coming up (Oct 5 & 6) and they have 2 cars to prep. So we need to find out what's in the air and maybe the water that's causing all these OD problems.

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[JWahlsten]

Well, I got my gears and replaced them with no problems. I did pull the steering wheel as it would not have been any fun without pulling it.



Jeff was very prompt in getting me the gears. His website was inaccurate for my car (1994). It showed the 968 needing a 12 tooth pod, but my car needed the 16-tooth. Fortunately for me the pod gear was still in great shape. I e-mailed Jeff later and he IMMEDIATELY sent me a replacement pod gear. So if someone needs a 12-tooth, let me know and I'll drop it in the mail. He told me to pass it on...Great guy to do business with.



While in there I fixed the dash lights with 194 bulbs and the reflectors with metal tape. I had to turn down the lights for the first time ever on a 944/968 series car, and this is my fourth.

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[tloof]

Hey Joel,



My 968 is also a '94 model, so do all '94 & up models use the 16 tooth pod vs the 12 tooth one that Jeff says is required for a 968?

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