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Mushy brake pedal
#1

I've noticed that my brake pedal is mushier than I think it should be - and the instructor who recently drove my car noticed it as well. I recently replaced the master cylinder, which, judging by the paint that was removed from the booster that the MC is bolted to, was probably leaking for some time. I replaced the brake fluid with Wilwood Series 600 fluid, using my Motive pressure bleeder. I first bled the new MC, then bled the right rear caliper (both bleed screws simultaneously - my car has oversized calipers from an '89 944 Turbo S), then I bled the MC again, then bled the left rear caliper, then the right front, the left front, and finally bled the MC again. This is the same method (other than replacing and bleeding the MC) that I use on all my other cars, and I always get a nice firm pedal. The fluid flowed at approximately the same rate from all eight bleed screws, and I got roughly the same initial quantity of bubbles from each. My car has steel braided brake lines, and has Porterfield 4S pads. The pedal is mushy with the car sitting still without the engine running, and when driving - no difference. The degree of mushiness is about the same as before I replaced the MC - no worse, but no better, either.



Any ideas for anything else I should check? The braking performance is fine - I just have to depress the pedal a disconcerting distance before the braking action starts. Thanks.
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#2

i would bleed one screw at a time, not both simultaneously.



also, why did you interrupt the process and do the MC after the right rear? MC should be first. then the right rear, left rear, yada yada. no MC bleeding after that.



then bleed the clutch.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

No particular reason for bleeding the MC multiple times - I just figured that since it was new, it wouldn't hurt to bleed it a few times throughout the process, as long as I kept the rest of the bleed screws shut while doing it. Others have mentioned bleeding the clutch, but it felt perfect before and after the process, so I didn't bother, because I didn't want to mess up something that was working. What's the purpose of bleeding the clutch?



The strange thing is that nothing I did had any effect whatsoever - I started with a mushy pedal, and ended up with an equally mushy pedal, which makes me think something else is wrong, but I can't think of what it might be.
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#4

the clutch and brakes share the same reservoir. anything in one will be in the other.



there is no need to keep bleeding the MC, and in fact could easily be introducing air into the system.



start over. bleed over again. skip bleeding the MC altogether.



side note: make sure the blue hose is fresh. a leak there will continue to introduce air into the system.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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