[Velocity]

I have a stock (from the engine perspective, anyhow) 1992 968 with aftermarket oil temp/pressure and water temp gauges. We're just getting into "peak summer" where I'm at, and I can definitely notice a difference in "standard operating" temps with the weather.

All temps Fahrenheit.

Ambient air temp is ~95, maybe peaking at 100.

<b>Oil temp</b> ranges from 175-185 (moving at 40+mph), can get into low 200s (208-210 is max I've seen) when idling.

<b>Oil pressure</b> has always been "good" - obviously varies with oil temp and engine speed. However - I just noticed today that at higher temps (200ish), when idling, it can drop down to 18-20psi (my oil pressure light blinks red at <20psi) - <b>is this too low?</b> Never drops below 18, and as soon as you give it any gas, it bumps back up into 25-30+ psi. Dash gauge shows ~1bar at same time - oil pressure light in dash never comes on. I plan to check idle pressure once the car has cooled down - at a cold start, it's obviously MUCH higher - believe I've seen 60-70psi, lowering quickly as oil temp raises. Also just realized that when mechanic did last oil change (after a oil pan gasket replacement), they refilled it with "LMO Motor Oil 5w-40 Leichlauf HT-1L". In the past when I'd done my own changes, I used Liquid Moly 20w50. Could the difference in weight/viscosity also be causing the low idle pressure at higher temps? I assume I should get it back to 20w50?

<b>Water temp</b> used to run 180-190 in more reasonable ambient temps, but I often see it around 220 now. Oddly, while aftermarket water temp gauge normally stays right around 220 when it's hot out, the dash water temp gauge can vary from middle of the two "hash marks" on water temp gauge to a high of just under the upper/middle mark (nowhere near red area). I'm assuming this is an OK range for the 968, especially given high ambient temp?

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[Waylander]

Not getting into an oil thread, but the viscosity will make a difference

I use 20W50 too as its whats in the manual

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[dlearl476]

If your engine used to run 180-190 and its running 220 now, check your radiator cap.

My OE gauge used to run like that, even getting close to the top mark when pulling a grade.


A friend suggested a new cap and lo and behold, mine generally runs on the bottom mark of a little above with the fan on and the thermostat open now. Without either it gets up to halfway between the marks. Its interesting that I can pretty much see when the thermostat opens. When the car is warming up, it will rise to just above halfway, then drop down to the lower mark when the thermostat opens up.

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[Velocity]

If your engine used to run 180-190 and its running 220 now, check your radiator cap.

My OE gauge used to run like that, even getting close to the top mark when pulling a grade.


A friend suggested a new cap and lo and behold, mine generally runs on the bottom mark of a little above with the fan on and the thermostat open now. Without either it gets up to halfway between the marks. Its interesting that I can pretty much see when the thermostat opens. When the car is warming up, it will rise to just above halfway, then drop down to the lower mark when the thermostat opens up.

 

Interesting - I assume you mean the cap on the overflow reservoir?   Certainly cheaper than most other cooling system components - I'll give it a try!    Thanks!

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[Velocity]

Not getting into an oil thread, but the viscosity will make a difference

I use 20W50 too as its whats in the manual

 

Forgot to post an update here - good call Waylander - I switched back to 20w50 from the 5w-40 my mechanic had used and lowest oil pressure I see now (operating temp at idle) is mid 20s. 

 

I did find in the WSM that while while at operating temperature "at idle speed the oil pressure should be 2.5 bar or more" - 2.5bar is ~36psi.   This is with it being measured at the stock sensor location.   My sensor is down in the oilpan, so maybe a bit less pressure is normal there?    In any case, happy it's a bit higher than with the 5w-40 and will continue to monitor it.

 

BTW, the WSM also states at 4000rpm oil pressure should be 4.5 bar (65 psi) - will have to test that out sometime soon. ;-)

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[Waylander]

Well there is no oil pressure in the pan, its just a large drip tray ?


Temp take off can be done from the pan

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[Velocity]

Well there is no oil pressure in the pan, its just a large drip tray ?


Temp take off can be done from the pan

 

Sigh - you are correct again.   Too much working outside in the heat here blanked my mind for a bit - it's the oil temp sensor that's in the pan.   

 

Don't suppose anyone else on here has a digital oil pressure gauge and can provide some comparison readings at idle?   Even with the stock gauge, does anyone's read over 2 bar at idle?   

 

I'll have to compare stock oil pressure gauge to digital to see if they agree when I'm next in my 968 - although since my fuel gauge doesn't quite reach full even with a full tank, I'm not sure I trust readings on my stock oil pressure gauge.    26 psi (which would be around "normal" for my 968 at hot idle) is just under 2 bar, compared to the 2.5 bar that the WSM states is normal at idle.

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[Waylander]

you would need to put a T in the oil pressure take off below the oil filter, 

 

but before you do that, I would

 

Clean all the under dash ground points, remove the cluster and clean all the cable connections and the football shaped connectors, clean the engine bay ground points, by the headlights and the big cable from the motor to the firewall, and the battery to chassis

 

mine at 160K miles, when hot is just over 2 bar with 20W50

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[J.Elenbaas]

Same here, engine cold pressure is over 2.5 bar at idle.

When the engine and oil is hot pressure drops a little, which I think is normal procedure.

I use mobil 0W40 at the moment, no difference noted with other oils.

 

Only noticed that my problem with the oil level sensor is solved, but during the oil change I also took that part out for a clean.

Sometimes after running and starting again lets say an hour or a bit more the oil level light came on when starting the engine.

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[Velocity]

 

Interesting - I assume you mean the cap on the overflow reservoir?   Certainly cheaper than most other cooling system components - I'll give it a try!    Thanks!

 

Well, I've added Redline water wetter to the system and replaced the radiator cap.   Mechanic confirmed system holds pressure, and I've verified (thanks to fancy new diagnostic solid state DME) that both low and high speed fans are operating correctly.    I still have the same running water temps that I had in my original post in this thread.

 

Guessing only real possibilities left are bad coolant, or clogged radiator?   Going to try a clean/flush and then possibly move on to total radiator replacement if needed.     

 

Worst case, I suppose the water pump that is barely a  year old could be failing (broken impeller or similar).

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[Waylander]

More likely a duff stat, opening at a higher temp



The temp sensor is in the head just under the inlet manifold, I always have another method of temp monitor if I am concerned same with oil temp and pressure



The car gauges can be a bit wayward if the connectors are dirty, if it does not boil over or loose water then I would suggest that a little paranoia is creeping in

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[Velocity]

 

Well, I've added Redline water wetter to the system and replaced the radiator cap.   Mechanic confirmed system holds pressure, and I've verified (thanks to fancy new diagnostic solid state DME) that both low and high speed fans are operating correctly.    I still have the same running water temps that I had in my original post in this thread.

 

Guessing only real possibilities left are bad coolant, or clogged radiator?   Going to try a clean/flush and then possibly move on to total radiator replacement if needed.     

 

Worst case, I suppose the water pump that is barely a  year old could be failing (broken impeller or similar).

 

Well, the car "solved" the problem for me by dumping a quart or so of coolant out of right front side of car (NOT under overflow reservoir) yesterday after a drive.    Turns out my radiator now has a split in it - in the shop now, will be getting a new radiator after all.     Total guess on my part, but suspect the radiator had some sort of clog/similar and with reduced flow has been running hot and increase in pressure/flow/restrictions finally caused the split/leak.

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[dlearl476]

Theres a guy on eBay that sells all-aluminum radiators for 968s. Before I solved my issue with a new radiator cap, I was looking at getting one. I still long for a shiny/silver all-metal radiator.



This is a 944 radiator, but this is the guy.

https://gpiracing.myshopify.com/products...ag_organic

Probably Chinese made for that price, but as long as it fits, works, and doesnt leak who cares? At least it doesnt have plastic end caps.

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[ds968]

Looks very well made, at least from the photo .  

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[J.Elenbaas]

Not only the price tells you.

 

Below on the page it's clearly stated:

<p style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica, 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;font-size:15px;">QINGZHOU F-MOTO MACHINERY CO.,LTD

<p style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica, 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;font-size:15px;">NAOSHAN ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT ZONE

<p style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica, 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;font-size:15px;">QINGZHOU CITY, SHANDONG PROVINCE, 

<p style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica, 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;font-size:15px;">Emailabrinawang981210@gmail.com

<p style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Helvetica, 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif;font-size:15px;">Don't try to mount it as on the picture though!!!

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[ds968]

Stuff made in China nowadays is hit or miss  ; some products are still crappy, almost devoid of any quality control, while others are excellently built and of top notch materials.  So it’s tough to guess which is what..I suppose some web research on consumers feedback ( if available ) re a particular product may shed some light on the quality ..or lack thereof.  

 I’m talking about “ a-z “ Chinese companies products , as opposed to American or European companies which outsource manufacturing to China ; the latter tend to exercise much more quality control so you typically end up with items of decent all around quality and still at significantly lower prices.  

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[dlearl476]

Yeah. Hit and miss. Only one way to find out. You pays your money and you takes your chances.



I couldnt be happier with the Made in China oil catch can I bought for my Spyder on eBay. I was really surprised at the workmanship. But then it's a lot less complicated than a radiator.

   

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[Rap]

This year a number of trailer owners had their tires blow out or go flat. Myself included twice. Culprit was cheap chairman Xi tires. I now only use American made tires for my trailer. As best I can I try not to use or buy chairman Xi products. Not always possible of course. 

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