[EEZATOY]

I'm adding M030 sway bars and the KLA drop links to my car today...



question on the drop links and the adjustable lenght - should I connect the drop link while the car is on stands or wait until its back on the ground? What difference dose changing the lenght do? and does the spherical drop link automatically take any preload out or should I drop the car back down and load up enough weight to copensate for me first and then connect the bars?



and side note I'm starting at the middle setting for the rear bars for now...



thanks for any advice



Sam

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[flash]

adjust the links with the car on the ground - it is better to do it with the appropriate amount of weight in the seat

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[wjk_glynn]

I'm curious to know the effect of adding these drop links.



I understand they make pre-load adjustment easy, but do they have other effects (e.g. affecting sway bar rate, etc.)?



Karl.

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[EEZATOY]

Ok, I will make the adjustment with wheels on the ground and balist in car...anything tricky about the front bar - other than just bolting it in place (other than putting the wheels on the ground to line up the ends....). I am still waiting for my KLA braces - should be this week. Then I can finish this upgrade...thanks Bob



Karl - as far as I know the links are for ease of adjusting out any pre-load. You can change their lenght, so I would guess in theory that could change the rate some, but I would say its more about the ease of dialing out the pre-load and with the M030 sways changing to any of its three setting



Sam

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[flash]

technically they can add sway bar rate (ken from kla did an article explaining this), but not much - however, the best thing is the they elminate the rubber, thereby making hte bar more effective, and allow for the elimination of preload, which is key to predictable handling

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[S_Cal968]

With balast in the drivers seat a slight amount of pre-load may be noticed on one side. I placed 160lbs in the drivers seat, [that's all the ballast I had] and the car lowered ~.50" on the left side. Ideally the car should set level [L to R] with the driver.

re: KLA drop-links; As a starting point I measuring the center to center distance of the factory droplinks and then set the KLA links accordingly. By dialing out the uneven pre-load, there should be an equal sway in each direction.



On a side note, before lifting the car I measured the height of each wheel well so that I could duplicate the level position of the car once lifted.

I fabricated 2 7" platforms for the rear tires to sit on and leveled the car using the dimensions I had taken earlier [+7"]. The platforms provide enough room to easily get to the adjustment points.



The rule of thumb for the front link is to compress the rubber bush so that it's the same diameter as the retaining washer. I suppose the only adjustment is less preload; but that's rarely a desireable setting.

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[sguy]

When setting suspension components, the car should be rolled into position and not lowed from a lift. When lowering from lifting there is lots of pre-load on the suspension. Either drive the car into position for the adjustment or roll it 5+ car lengths to let the suspension settle to it's running status.



Cheers,

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[S_Cal968]

I roll the car when adjusting the alignment. I've read quite a bit on alignment and have never heard of the 5 car-length roll[?]. I didn't notice any difference when adjusting the s/bars. Also my floor is smooth enough that my platforms move and allow the suspension to settle. I suppose my set up may not work for everyone.

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[flash]

i have to do the same thing when setting the ride height - it takes that much to release the preload on the bushings - keep in mind i have solid bushings everywhere too, and STILL have to let it settle in before i tighten up things like this

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