The first and foremost, do you have the flywheel lock in?
Are you just replacing the H20pump or are you replacing the seals like Orphan said?
Rollers? Do you know when they were replaced?
The timing belt/waterpump job is easy, very easy. As long as you take many pictures you shouldn't have any problems.
From where you are, if you are going to change the seals, given your flywheel is locked, take off the pulleys from the crankshaft. This requires a large breaker bar. i used a 2ft torque wrench with another 2 ft breaker bar.
Next, if your car is still at TDC - which it should - remove the two nuts holding the tensioner in place. You should then be able to slide the tensioner out. Removing the waterpump guide rail will allow you to snake the belt out. CAUTION!!! Once the tensioner is removed, the cam gear will roll counter-clockwise about 1 1/2 teeth. ( in my case it was only one tooth.. but YMMV. You will have to straighten this out when you replace the belt. Once all of the belts are removed you can unbolt the 13 bolts that hold the waterpump on. I suggest buying a thermostat circlip - it's a pain in the ass and will most probably break while removing it. You need to remove the old thermostat from the waterpump to retrieve the metal washer that sits inbetween the circlip and the thermostat. Replace the gaskets and o-rings for the thermostat, insert back into the waterpump, and bolt back on, given you have applied the waterpump gasket.
If you are doing the seal job, hopefully it's not the cam seal leaking. I have no experience with cam sprocket removal. You will need a front seal kit - it should include the mylar washers, seals, and o-rings for the two balance shafts, cam shaft, and crankshaft.
If you want to do the seal job, i'll post some more about removing the balance shaft housings and the seals... it can be tricky.
Patience is the key. It's a pretty straight-forward job and you learn a lot about the car.
