[Lawrence084]

I am at the point where I need to remove the timing belt to remove the water pump. What should be remove next. Removing or loosing the Tensioner Lever Arm seems to be the logical choice, but it doesn't want to budge. Is this the next step, or is there a roller I should be removing?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Nenehubert]

All that needs to be done, for cam belt removal, is undo the two bolts that hold the tensioner to the engine. I assume you have removed the crankcase bolt? Edit: now that i think about it.. the crankshaft bolt could stay on.. i removed it to do the seal behind the pullies. You also have to loosen the rear cover to slide the tensioner out. The tensioner should then slide out, easily. The belt should then slide right off. Remember, when compressing the tensioner, do so slowly. If using a vice, fit a socket on the back end of the tensioner, whilst compressing it. Sorry if i'm rambling, i can finally contribute to the community. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/laugh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Are you just replacing the waterpump?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Harvey]

[quote name='Nenehubert' date='Apr 22 2006, 09:32 PM']All that needs to be done, for cam belt removal, is undo the two bolts that hold the tensioner to the engine. I assume you have removed the crankcase bolt? Edit: now that i think about it.. the crankshaft bolt could stay on.. i removed it to do the seal behind the pullies. You also have to loosen the rear cover to slide the tensioner out. The tensioner should then slide out, easily. The belt should then slide right off. Remember, when compressing the tensioner, do so slowly. If using a vice, fit a socket on the back end of the tensioner, whilst compressing it. Sorry if i'm rambling, i can finally contribute to the community.  <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/laugh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> 



Are you just replacing the waterpump?

[right][post="19643"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



While you're in there, replace the belts...and any rollers, etc. that may be getting old. Saves a lot of work and gives you peace o mind on trips.



Harvey

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Nenehubert]

[quote name='Harvey' date='Apr 23 2006, 08:34 AM']While you're in there, replace the belts...and any rollers, etc. that may be getting old.  Saves a lot of work and gives you peace o mind on trips.



Harvey

[right][post="19648"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



+1

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lawrence084]

[quote name='Nenehubert' date='Apr 22 2006, 06:32 PM']All that needs to be done, for cam belt removal, is undo the two bolts that hold the tensioner to the engine. I assume you have removed the crankcase bolt? Edit: now that i think about it.. the crankshaft bolt could stay on.. i removed it to do the seal behind the pullies. You also have to loosen the rear cover to slide the tensioner out. The tensioner should then slide out, easily. The belt should then slide right off. Remember, when compressing the tensioner, do so slowly. If using a vice, fit a socket on the back end of the tensioner, whilst compressing it. Sorry if i'm rambling, i can finally contribute to the community.  <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/laugh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />  



Are you just replacing the waterpump?

[right][post="19643"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



You lost me...But then it is not a hard thing to do...



At this point all I have off are two belts (Air-Conditioner, Powersteering, Alternator)...That it.



What is my next step? Is it releasing the (hydraulic) tensioner lever arm while on the block?

and please explain the how to use a vice (Because I think that is my next step...But just can't figure out how to compress the tensioner lever arm with a vice)...



[color="red"]EDIT: I think this thread answers my question... http://65.61.16.109/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2215

I appreiate your help[/color]



I plan to replace as much as I can $$$ is the factor...Belts and Water Pump...at this point.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lawrence084]

Next step...I have until Saturday to get this right...And I need a good reason to use this camera.



What my next step in removing and replacing the water pump. As of now all marks line up perfectly.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[orphanowner]

I don't want to spoil your fun, but someone should point out that the service you are attempting to perform is extremely critical and requires a good feel for tools and experience working on engines. The whole waterpump, timing belt and in your case balance shaft end seals (yours are leaking if that picture is of your engine) requires a somewhat high skill level and there are numerous opportunities to screw things up if your not careful or sure of how things go back together.



On the 968 engine, it is very easy to bend a valve when setting the cam belt. The cam belt tensioner also requires some patience to remove and compress and the re installation can be frustrating.



I'd advise taking it slow and asking a lot of questions. This forum is a great resouce and the people are great here. Oh yeah, it's a lot easier doing this service with the spark plugs removed.



Good luck!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lawrence084]

Thanks for the advice and for pointing out the leaking seals.



I am being patience, very careful and trying to stay two steps ahead. I am being helped by a friend of mine who done water pump replacements. He knows motors, just not 968....So it is a learning experience for him too, but he has swapped out and rebuilt a few motors...We are trying not learn the hard way. That why we stopped last weekend to ask the forum what the next step...Instead of pushing on last weekend.



I rather take the time and do it right AND LEARN rather than give anymore money to a Porshe Dealership, (That would be spoiling my fun).



I'll admit there is a real risk of screwing thing up for good...there also an reward...But I like my chances of getting this right than a lot of other things I'll be risking in the future.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[orphanowner]

[quote name='Lawrence084' date='Apr 26 2006, 07:15 PM']Thanks for the advice and for pointing out the leaking seals.



I am being patience, very careful and trying to stay two steps ahead. I am being helped by a friend of mine who done water pump replacements. He knows motors, just not 968....So it is a learning experience for him too, but he has swapped out  and rebuilt a few motors...We are trying not learn the hard way. That why we stopped last weekend to ask the forum what the next step...Instead of pushing on last weekend.



I rather take the time and do it right AND LEARN rather than give anymore money to a Porshe Dealership, (That would be spoiling my fun).



I'll admit there is a real risk of screwing thing up for good...there also an reward...But I like my chances of getting this right than a lot of other things I'll be risking in the future.

[right][post="19888"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



It is always a noble pursuit to learn to service your own car. Nobody will do a better job once you get the experience and the hands on understanding is invaluable.



Best of luck and feel free to ask away...

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lemming]

http://www.clarks-garage.com/



Fantastic resource.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Nenehubert]

The first and foremost, do you have the flywheel lock in?

Are you just replacing the H20pump or are you replacing the seals like Orphan said?

Rollers? Do you know when they were replaced?



The timing belt/waterpump job is easy, very easy. As long as you take many pictures you shouldn't have any problems.



From where you are, if you are going to change the seals, given your flywheel is locked, take off the pulleys from the crankshaft. This requires a large breaker bar. i used a 2ft torque wrench with another 2 ft breaker bar.



Next, if your car is still at TDC - which it should - remove the two nuts holding the tensioner in place. You should then be able to slide the tensioner out. Removing the waterpump guide rail will allow you to snake the belt out. CAUTION!!! Once the tensioner is removed, the cam gear will roll counter-clockwise about 1 1/2 teeth. ( in my case it was only one tooth.. but YMMV. You will have to straighten this out when you replace the belt. Once all of the belts are removed you can unbolt the 13 bolts that hold the waterpump on. I suggest buying a thermostat circlip - it's a pain in the ass and will most probably break while removing it. You need to remove the old thermostat from the waterpump to retrieve the metal washer that sits inbetween the circlip and the thermostat. Replace the gaskets and o-rings for the thermostat, insert back into the waterpump, and bolt back on, given you have applied the waterpump gasket.



If you are doing the seal job, hopefully it's not the cam seal leaking. I have no experience with cam sprocket removal. You will need a front seal kit - it should include the mylar washers, seals, and o-rings for the two balance shafts, cam shaft, and crankshaft.



If you want to do the seal job, i'll post some more about removing the balance shaft housings and the seals... it can be tricky.



Patience is the key. It's a pretty straight-forward job and you learn a lot about the car.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lawrence084]

First all I like thanks for all the advice I recieved...It is appreiated and it made a world of difference.



The old water pump was bad...The inside part spin freely regardless if the outside roller was spinning or not. The connect between the outside roller and the inside parts were nolonger connected. (I hope that make sense)



Now...My car is running at the 9-10 o'clock position 99% of a drive...which I think is a higher than before...It use to run at the 8-9 position.



There is a slight whining noise when the car RPM are high. I think the balance belt maybe too tight.



I wasn't able to do the seal job...Couldn't get any of the Woodruff key off. I figured I'll practice removing them off of something and do the seal job next three day weekend I get.



As far as timing...The car feel and sounds the same...Not too sure what it would feel like if it was off a half tooth or not...I wish there is a way to tell...When I go back in to do the seal job, I have more time to triple check the marks...I got done late sunday night..and was push for time to complete it...and one or two of the line/marks lineup wasn't perfect/perfect...but i talking fraction of an inch off and the rest of the marks were on the mark. The 3 flywheel marks are the hargest to judge because I am upside down, looking thru a small hole. But the car is running fine.



Thanks again...

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.