[gryphon]

I would like to discretely hard wire my garage door opener into my cab for a couple of reasons, mainly to avoid hiding or carrying the RC every time I leave the car in a parking lot with the top down. I'm aware of the headlight flash-to-pass idea from a previous post but I'm thinking I would prefer to add an additional OEM switch on the console instead. I have a few questions for you smart electrical types:



1. Is there any possibility of a 1.5 volt unswitched supply voltage in the vehicle?



2. Since #1 is probably unlikely, is there an off-the-shelf device or simple resistive circuit to drop the voltage from 12 volts to 1.5 volts? I should probably remember from my college engineering days but that goes back way to far.



3. Is there an OEM console/door switch that I can order that is a momentary single pole?



Thanks in advance.



Tom

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[SILVY968]

1- not that I have come across.



2- you can buy this unit and remove the cig lighter end and jump it into an unswitched 12VDC source AFTER the fuse block.

http://www.alltronics.com/cgi-bin/item/98E...%2DDC%2DAdapter



or



if you have an understanding of basic electronics, you can do this:



An LM317 regulator should do you just fine. Place a 240 ohm resistor from the Vout terminal to the Adj. terminal and a 51 ohm resistor to from the Adj. terminal to the Battery neg. (12V- or Gnd). This will give you 1.5 Volts between Vout and 12V- for any input voltage (Vin to 12V-) from about 4 to 40 Volts.



3 - almost all of the switches in the console are momentary. mirror adjust and window should be momentary.

Brian

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[banditsc]

I did this in my car, but my remote uses the small 12volt batteries that seem to be common now. If your remote isn't that old check the battery it could be a 12 volt. I hardwired 12 volt into it, and bought an extra central lock button and wired it into the remote then put it into and extra hole in the center console.

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[flash]

ok - i'm interested in this - i'd love to get rid of the remotes in my car, or at least hide them (though i question how effective they would be in any location i would place them)



i seem to remember a while back that somebody had done this in their visor



i'll see if i can find it

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[banditsc]

[quote name='flash' post='52018' date='May 7 2008, 09:03 AM']ok - i'm interested in this - i'd love to get rid of the remotes in my car, or at least hide them (though i question how effective they would be in any location i would place them)



i seem to remember a while back that somebody had done this in their visor



i'll see if i can find it[/quote]







Mine seems to work fine and you could really add it anywhere you want, as long as you have enough wire. I put my remote under the dash behind the radio and it has plent of range. I think part of that is the power source is probably a little more powerfull then the 12 volt battery it normally has. I could get the pin outs I used on the extra central lock button if somone wants, the red light even lights up when I press the button. In the garage remote itself I just soldered the wires from the switch into the circuit board on the remote. I could also grab a shot of that if someone wanted.

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[rxter]

Pictures please, if you can, would be very helpful. This sounds like a great idea and an ideal location for hte button. I've almost lost the damned thing a couple of times in tight turns. Grabbed it as it was sliding off the visor.

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[banditsc]

[quote name='rxter' post='52027' date='May 7 2008, 02:39 PM']Pictures please, if you can, would be very helpful. This sounds like a great idea and an ideal location for hte button. I've almost lost the damned thing a couple of times in tight turns. Grabbed it as it was sliding off the visor.[/quote]







I used my old switch as it was getting worn and didn't quite resemble the key anymore and got a new one. The garage door is the one all the way on the right.



   



I have this tucked in behind the radio, but you could put it wherever.



   



The inside of the remote, which you can get an Lowes, it really universal for most doors. Red is positive, Black is negative. Then for the switch, the Purple/Black wire is on the right, and White/Red on the left. I soldered all these wires in.



   







Then on the switch side I ran the chassis ground directly into the top left post and then a ground out of it to the remote. The top right post is White/Red, and the Purple/Black is directly under the ground. This also results in the central lock switch I used lighting up the red LED in the switch when you hit the button..



   

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[rxter]

Vcool. Is it difficult to get behind the switch area? And is your interior trim brown? Doesn't appear to be the standard black in the pics.

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[banditsc]

I has a slight brown hue to it, I think that is from being a Cabriolet and the sun beating down on it. It's easy to get to that switch, remove the ash tray, pull out the cubbie/clock, then unscrew the 4 screws that hold that panel on. I just did that to grab the pics, it's only takes a minute or so to get under that panel.

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[rxter]

Thanks SC.



Now all I need is a rocker switch. Any spares rolling around in people's garages?

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[williamoss]

I HAVE A GENIE GARAGE OPENER IN MY HOUSE. THEY SELL A SMALL UNIT THAT FITS ON THE KEY CHAIN. THE ADVANTAGE OF THIS IS THE UNIT IS WITH YOU AND NOT IN THE CAR. IF YOUR GARAGE DOOR OPENER WORKS WITH THE KEY IN THE OFF POSITION IT IS AN INVITATION FOR A THEFT TO BREAK INTO YOUR HOME. THEY BREAK THE WINDOW OF YOUR CAR PARKED IN THE DRIVEWAY AND PUSH EITHER THE BUTTON ON THE DASH ( A NORMAL GARAGE DOOR OPENER) OR THE BUTTON ON YOUR MIRROR. I HAD THE DEALER CHANGE THE WIRING ON MY CARS SO THE BUILT IN OPENER DOES NOT WOK WITH THE KEY TURNED OFF. IT NOW WORKS ONLY WHEN THE KEY IS IN THE CAR IN THE ON POSITION.

WILLIAM MOSS
TIGARD OR

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