[Lear35A]

I have to say though, after a few off and ons, it's not difficult to get it on the various pulleys. It does stretch out. Then I just tighten to AC tensioning rod to some arbitrary tightness. I wish there were something quantitative for the tension like there is for the factory setup of this belt. I don't want to put too much load on the SC or AC drive pulleys or the idler pulley. OTOH I don't want the belt to be slipping.

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[tamathumper]

At this point, I have all three tensioning tools, the ArnnWorx, the Krikit, and the P9201, and I'm going to tighten the belt by listening for a "ting-ting"? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[flash]

yeah - the belt doesn't need as much tension as stock. as long as it isn't smacking the belt guard, you're good. there is so much wrap around all of the pulleys, it would have to be pretty loose to slip.

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[tamathumper]

It's pretty darned tight right now, and the new tensioner isn't even "tensioning",... it's just "in there".

Got a little further tonight. Really had to frig with the radiator shield, the fasteners just would not fasten and I ended up using the OEM stuff for the fan side, and the new screws for the front.



The coolant is refilled and I'm ready to fit the charge pipe.

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[savvas968]

out of curiocity,is there a diagram,how the belt wraps around the pulleys ?



Dont seem to find it in the instructions which came with the S/C kit,which are quite thorough

and professionally written.

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[flash]

It shipped pre wrapped around the sc and idlers

The only remaining pulleys were the ac compressor the crank and the alternator and its idler

Those should be self evident

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[tamathumper]

Missing silicone pipe sourced, and now the charge pipe is in place. The oil cooler is also re-jiggered to make a little more room between it and the A/C condensor, and the upper radiator hose has been moved to make some room between it and the alternator (and its spinning vanes of death).



Getting closer.

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[tamathumper]

Stage 1, 2 and 3 completed today... Holy cow the trials and tribulations! Details to follow in succeeding posts.



If everything had gone right, I could have finished a day earlier, but gravity and chance were ganging up on me most of the time.



Supercharger, Stage 1 at this point, running.







And the all-important sticker. This adds 5 hp!



Stages 2 and 3 were completed at the same time, with lots and lots of fuel spilled.



All of the twist ties broke of course on the fuel rail, and of course the injectors were stuck with 20 years of gumption.



Three of the injectors broke out of their clips on the fuel rail and spilled fuel all over the place. They also left their o-rings up inside the fuel rail, @!#$

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[tamathumper]

When taking off the original injectors, one of the square clips sprang off and disappeared. It was either order a new one or go on the "hunt of a lifetime" for that thing. After 30 minutes of looking above and below, I saw the edge of something square buried below the intake manifold, and miraculously a magnet fished out the clip! Thank gosh! You might be able to see a hint of it in this photo.





I put on the new fuel pressure regulator, and reconnected the main fuel supply line, then re-bolted the fuel rail down to the intake manifold.



I started the car and fuel sprayed everywhere. So I retightened the supply hose because the fuel was spraying from there, and it did it again. I tightened it more, and it sprayed again!



Then, I realized the new fuel pressure regulator had a closer hole spacing than the original, and the bottom bolt had cross-threaded in the hole (it's somewhat @!#$ invisible), and the o-ring on the fuel pressure regulator was not fully seated because the whole thing was just a little cockeyed. That's where the fuel was coming from!



So the whole @#!$ fuel rail had to come off again, popping injectors out and of course getting fuel all over the place again.



I had to re-tap the bottom hole because it was partly stripped, and you can only imagine how hard that was to get to, but it only took 10 minutes to be honest. It was just 10 minutes at the end of 8 hours of already working on this and wanting it to be finished.

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[tamathumper]

Finally, at last, here's Stage 3 after a 5-mile test drive.



Now, I need to drive 60 more miles gently, and then I can do the fuel pressure test, take off the fuel pressure gauge and button it up!

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[tamathumper]

And if you're as clumsy as me, this is what your hands will look like <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[mbardeen]

I've taken to wearing gloves when I work, otherwise I could have my hands looking like that just changing the spark plug wires.

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[tamathumper]

There are so many little nuts and bolts that are down under things and deep into holes that I don't think I could have gotten away with wearing gloves for this job. I usually do wear them, but this job requires lots of dexterity and my hands are pretty big, so they don't fit into tight spaces very easily.

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[ds968]

[quote name='tamathumper' timestamp='1363555302' post='140156']And if you're as clumsy as me, this is what your hands will look like <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />



[/quote]





Wow, that left hand got all mangled up ;-) ;-) I would imagine there is lot of satisfaction with installing things yourself, but jeeezus, that looks like you took a small beating doing it.

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[flash]

the hole spacing should be the same. i've not yet run into any problems getting those to line up by hand. perhaps you tried to use a tool first, and went in cock-eyed into the aluminum and cross-threaded. it's a horrible blind spot, and at a slant, so i can see that happening. i almost did that once.

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[tamathumper]

I ended up having to bend the metal of the mounts just slightly to get them to line up. If I started the top one first, the bottom one would not line up. Same if I started the bottom one first (after reforming the threads) then the top one would not line up. So I had to get out the vise grips and "encourage" the brackets a little closer together, and then everything lined up just fine and I was able to bend the mounts back into their original position, or very near to.



I kept, and will keep a very close eye on that o-ring to make sure fuel isn't spraying out.



I overfilled the coolant a bit, but I was figuring it would spit out the excess on my test drive. It spit it out and more, as it's now low, so I guess there was a bubble in the system and I need to fill it up again. Probably when the thermostat opened?

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[flash]

i wish people wouldn't do stuff like that, and would call me first instead. if you had to bend anything, then something was wrong. either your rail was buggered, or you got a defective regulator. those holes line up fine on the other 20 of these out there. that regulator is made specifically to fit this rail. in either case though, this should have been a "stop here" item. i would have had you measure the regulator and the rail. then i could have known what was amiss, and what to do about it.



i'm nervous about fuel leaks there. that is a lot of pressure, and i don't like it being held together by bent parts.



as for the coolant, are you sure it spit in out? you'll almost certainly have to top it off again any time you drain the radiator and refill it. when you bled it, did you have the heater on full hot and the fan on?

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[tamathumper]

I'll take a picture of the regulator and the rail if you like, I agree it's a concern. However many of the parts had to be bent or "encouraged" into position, including the radiator shield (quite a bit), and the intake shield (a lot), so that late into the install it seemed that parts simply don't fit on 20-year-old handmade cars from one to the next interchangeably, and my expectations were to have to make adjustments as I went.



Yes, the heater and fan were on full when I bled it, and I let it run until all the bubbles were out of the bleeder screw and I also "massaged" the lower hose to get all the bubbles out, but these things do take 2 or 3 refills to get them all, from what I read.



It was quite overfull, and it's not even up to the Min mark now, so if it somehow burned off that much coolant in 5 miles, (and didn't spit it out), then I have a hole in my head gasket the size of a fixed cat. Which I would sincerely hope is not the case. At least some of it bubbled out on the garage floor and in the driveway before I left for the short test drive, so I can say that at least some of it bubbled out.

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[tamathumper]

By some grace of God, there was a water main break at work and we were all sent home at 2 pm. Bob called at about 10 am and we chatted about hose routing, fuel pressure regulators, etc., and the closure gave me enough time to get home, verify things, re-route the big hoses and the supercharger oil line, rejigger the intake shield, refill the coolant reservoir and go for my 65-mile shakedown cruise before we get 8 inches of snow tonight.



Here's the fuel pressure regulator close-up, to show it's all snug.







Here it is, all buttoned up top and bottom and test driven for 65 miles and then some! The latest Design 1 Racing Supercharger, Stage 3!







So far, I have to say, I haven't noticed a difference in my response times.

Never mind, Bob called in under a minute. It usually takes two.



<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/icon_lol1.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[tamathumper]

Holy crow. With all this torque, I think I could tow a camper. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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