the number scribed on the injectors are reference numbers only. they do not represent anything. the flow rates are on the sheet included with the injectors.
the reason for the order is merely to put the lower flow (assuming there is one) nearer the fuel source, and the higher flow farther away. this would help balance the pressure, as all 4 injectors are getting the fuel from the same charged pipe. each time the injector fires, pressure in the pipe drops (admittedly a small amount). i have no testing to indicate that the scheme works, but there is no harm in doing it.
just for the record, not intended to start an argument, and not to diminish anyone's efforts, the statement that any normally aspirated version makes "a bunch more power" than the stage 3 kit is at least misleading. the stage 3 kit makes more torque, over a wider band, than any normally aspirated version of the 968 engine (torque is where real power is - most people don't care about peak horsepower in a street car, other than for bragging rights). the stage 3 kit could easily make far more horsepower than what is shipped too. i merely limited things, and told the engine to sign off after 6k rpm, to make things safe and to keep them together, because most guys won't rebuild their engine first, which would also be required to make a high horsepower normally aspirated engine. besides, the stock valves begin to float at just over 6300rpm (which is why the redline is where it is). this causes mixture issues. you don't really notice it in a normally aspirated car, but you would in a forced induction car. the crank twists too, which becomes a problem when you start pushing the envelope. like any other engine when tweaked, a tweaked out normally aspirated engine won't last all that long. the stage 3 kit is designed to maintain the lifespan of the engine. comparing a stage 3 kit on a 100k motor to a brand new fully tweaked race engine is not a fair comparison. if you want to compare for real, i made 376hp, and then tuned it down to a bit over 340, on a street engine. the only difference between that and the standard stage 3 kit is injectors and tuning. getting up to 375 would only take some minor porting, small exhaust changes, and stiffer valve springs. it would not be at all difficult to do that to any of the stage 3 kits. it's pointless though, as all of the increase is up over 6k rpm. most people just aren't interested in anything over 6k. torque also does not change, so again, pointless on a street car.
i had considered making the big power "stage 4" version available to the masses, and i still might. i did not want to be responsible for what somebody did after they installed the big power version. i had already had people take the stage 1 version out on the track, which was firmly recommended against. releasing the "stage 4" version would require proof of having rebuilt the engine though, and a waiver of responsibility. again, we can talk about that, but on a different thread, or directly.
if you want big torque on a normally aspirated engine, you need to go stroker. there is a guy out on the west coast that is the leading expert on the 968 engine, and how to get big power out of it. he makes his own crankshafts for that. he built my engine. he's been doing it for as long as the engine has been out there. he doesn't advertise, and you will be waiting for a very long time, but he is the best. last i heard, there was a 6 month wait just to get into see him. i won't "advertise" him here, but if anybody wants to go that route, they can contact me.
back to the original question though. look at the flow rate sheet. they should all be matched, but a few sets had a small difference between them. in that case, install the lowest rate injector to the rear, and the highest to the front.
