[Rutger Gert-jan]

Hi,



Today I bled the brakes and the clutch cylinders, the brakes are fine. The clutch on the other hand still oprates a bit funny....I changed both slave and master cylinder, during the proces I removed the brake booster as well. Now the clutch pedal does not slam into the firewall like before but at the end of its travel I can still push it a bit further back by hand (untill the spring pulls it back) So is there still air int the system or is there something else? I checked the distance from the firewall to the pivot point from the pedal...it is 147 MM.....



Any thoughts?



Regards,



Rutger

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[RS Barn]

Rutger,

Have someone look at clutch master while you are depressing clutch and see if there is any movement at Master on Firewall. We're starting to see flex there.

Pete

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

Pete,



Before I started on this clutch job I had a crack in my firewall, I welded in a piece of sheet metal...but I will check and let you know how it works out.



Rutger

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

Hi,



I checked the firewall, there is no fles pfeewww. So what should I do? just do the bleeding one more time?



Rutger

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[flash]

it can be tricky



on one car, the blue line was not getting a good seal, and consequently let air into the system every time the pedal was depressed - the danged thing would bleed fine, then we would get around the corner and the pedal would go to the floor



also, when bleeding, make sure that the front left corner of the reservoir stays full - that is where the blue line pickup is for the clutch - there is a small divider between that section and the rest of the reservoir - if the level gets too low, the fluid won't get from the reservoir to the little area up front - air then enters the system - tapping on it can help

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

HI,





Ok, so my clutch still does not work as it should......... I replaced all the parts in there (cylinders, hose, fork, bearings, disk, pressure plate etc....) and the clutch pedal still needs a bit of help at the end of its travel....I bled the system many times and in different ways( lift the rear, leave it sit on all for wheels etc).



The other day I was working on the car (another bleed session) and fitted the dust cap on the slave cylinder, while pushing the rubber thing on the bleed screw I saw tiny air bubbles/ brakefluid seeping at the bottom of this little screw ?!? this is no good ( it is a new slave cylinder from paragon) so I will put the old slave cylinder back and see if it makes any difference, but if this does not fix the problem where else should I look??



I thought of making(adjusting) the rod on the clutch pedal a bit "longer" so that it will build up more pressure, will this work?



TYIA,



Rutger

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[flash]

air at the screw base AFTER closing down? sounds like your bleed screw isn't seating



also, there could be a leak in the blue line - on one car here, after changing the master, we made the mistake of re-using the blue line - looked fine, but was too hard to make a good seal - we had a small leak that let air in - it would work fine after bleeding, and then a few times later, air was in there again



that 2 dollar part kept the owner from driving a fun run

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

Flash,



I did replace the blue hose, I will check the clamps. What about adjusting the rod?

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

Hi,



I made some adjustments to the rod coming from the master cylinder (gave it a few turns to make it longer)....the clutch now works perfect. It seems strange but i did the trick!

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[S_Cal968]

Yes, when serviced my system I marked and measured the engagement of the rod before disassembly - the length is critical.

I don't know if this was mentioned earlier, but a power-bleeder makes bleeding quick & easy and would define any leaks.

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

[quote name='S_Cal968' post='49608' date='Mar 22 2008, 07:49 PM']Yes, when serviced my system I marked and measured the engagement of the rod before disassembly - the length is critical.

I don't know if this was mentioned earlier, but a power-bleeder makes bleeding quick & easy and would define any leaks.[/quote]





I did measure the lenhght of the rod, then added the thickness of the sheet metal....so to me it still seems strange that I had to adjust the rod again to make it work....Anyhow, is there a way to check that everything is working as it should?



TIA



Rutger

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[S_Cal968]

Basically the clutch should actuate smoothly and there shouldn't be any disengagement issues when shifting in & out of gear.

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