[Cloud9...68]

The manual calls for something called Olista Longtime 3 EP, which of course is unobtanium, and the Porsche dealer is closed. I've heard a recommendation to use a copper-based lubricant, but I’m not having any luck finding anythng like this locally. Any suggestions? Enough people say it’s important that I don’t what to take any shortcuts. Thanks.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

the guy working on my engine yelled at me for using the grease i used, so i'd wait and call porsche and see what they say now

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[RS Barn]

Usr Wurth copper paste #08938001. It is a high temperature and pressure paste. Also should be used on timing belt tensioner pivot and upper timing belt gear and the triangle piece that slides on the exhaust camshaft.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

i'll find out what my guy is using too. after how much he harped about using the right stuff on the clutch, i'm inclined to at least find out what all the hoopla is about. he's pretty anal, and has found quite a few things wrong with work i had done. it's all corrected now, and will be much better, but it pointed to the attention to detail.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

Yes, I'm hearing from several different sources how important it is to use the correct lubricant on the moving parts in the clutch assembly. The guy who's helping me put the engine back in has a 964, and he got some stuff from the Porsche dealer for his clutch parts. On the one hand, I don't want to use the wrong lubricant on such critical parts, but on the other hand, I'm out of town next weekend, so if I don't install the engine tomorrow, I have to wait another two weeks. I've got to think the stuff Porsche recommends for a 964 will work equally well on a 968, right?



Edit: Pete, I didn't catch your post. Crap, too late for the timing belt tensioner pivot (I used Swepco 101 Moly grease for that part). Where on the upper timing belt gear do you mean? And as far as the triangle piece that slides on the exhaust camshaft, isn't that the piece that's locked in place in the final step of the cam timing procedure? Why would that have to be lubricated?



Actually, maybe you shouldn't answer these questions, since they would involve major back-tracking on my project, which has already taken about ten times as long as I ever imagined...

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[MB968]

Last week, when I looked into the specs of the Olista Longtime 3EP, I found that it was made by Castrol. And it is a moly-disulfide, extreme pressure (that's what the EP stands for) lithium soap based grease. I purchased a semi-synthetic grease made by Valvoline called DuraBlend. From what I could tell comparing the specs, it meets or exceeds (higher temp application) the Olista 3EP grease.



In my past world a paste was only used when parts had very little relative velocity between them, or when the temp was so high that a normal bodied grease wouldn't work.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

that castrol stuff is what i used on my clutch, and what my builder complained about. i got it from an engineer at castrol. nasty stuff, but slicker than deer guts on a doorknob, and really hangs in there. gets all over everything though.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[DaveN]

Whatever happened to the good old days when Vaseline was the answer to almost everything! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[kwikt]

Been using this stuff from Versachem high temp copper anti seize.Used it on my 968 clutch and also my 911 clutch and other stuff.. Good to 2000 degrees.I think I got it at NAPA.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

I'm getting the impression that a copper-based anti-seize/lubricant has become the material of choice for this application. I'm finding it somewhat difficult to locate, however, so it looks like I'll have to order some online.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[RS Barn]

My experience with Wurth copper paste has been very positive. I learned of it from Will at Precision when I first started. I have taken apart motors and clutch assemblies after years of track driving and high temps to find lube looking just as when originally assembled.

The other places I mentioned use was learned after trying to take apart motors and finding binding and seized parts-ESPECIALLY Timing Belt Tensioner Pivot!!!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

Pete,



Thanks for the inputs. Could you tell me where you buy the Wurth copper paste? I only found one or two places online that carry it, and they were places I'd never heard of. They may be perfectly fine, but I'd rather buy from someone you deal with and can recommend.



I have the new style tensioner pivot, the type with the o-rings, which I bought three years ago the last time I did my belts. I think I used some Valvoline synthetic lube, and it was in great shape when I took it apart this time, so I assume the Swepco I used this time will work at least as well (and of course I replaced the o-rings). I'll definitely use the Wurth next time, and probably err on the early side of changing the belts. I wish I had known about the Wurth for this go-around, but I'll know for next time.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[RS Barn]

I've purchased from CDOC and Wurth. Truechoice or Jason at Paragon could have as well.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

Thanks; I'll give Jason a call in the morning. Man, this stuff is hard to find. CDOC doesn't list it on their website, and Wurth USA looks like it only sells to businesses. But I'm on a mission now...

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[RS Barn]

I'll send a message to Mack at CDOC to see if he some laying around

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[tamathumper]

Are we talking about the same thing as Copper Nev-a-Seize, or am I completely off base? I'll be putting mine back together probably tomorrow and I don't want to use the wrong thing. Olista Longtime just sounds like a porn name to me.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

Not familiar with Copper Nev-a-Seize (although from the description, it sounds like it might be a suitable lubricant), but either the Wurth CU800 that Pete recommends, or Lubri-Moly 508, which I bought from Rennbay after struggling to find any of the Wurth stuff, should do the trick.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[tamathumper]

I compared Nev-A-Seize, Copper Nev-A-Seize, and Nickel Nev-A-Seize today at the auto parts store. The regular stuff is good up to 1600 degrees, the copper stuff is good up to 1800 degrees, and the nickel stuff is good up to 2400 degrees!



I'd never even heard of the nickel stuff before... The Wurth paste is good up to almost 2200 degrees, so I'm thinking the nickel stuff will be necessary if I can't find the Wurth CU800. There's also a stainless steel one good up to 2200, but I haven't seen that on the shelf.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[tamathumper]

I read a post saying to apply copper-based lubricants very sparingly, and to never let it get near a bearing because it will disintegrate them, as it's basically metal particles in a clay carrier. I think I'll just go find the Wurth stuff to be safe.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

Hmmm... Conversely, I read a post on a different forum stating specifically to apply copper based grease to the needle bearings, in addition to all moving non-disk mating parts. It made sense to me, so that's what I did. Any other experienced opinions on this? If it's agreed that this is a bad thing, can the fork be removed by just removing the bell housing window, slave cylinder (which is still off on my car), and the fork shaft, or does the pressure plate have to come out?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.