[MB968]

[quote name='tamathumper' timestamp='1334591574' post='125260']

I read a post saying to apply copper-based lubricants very sparingly, and to never let it get near a bearing because it will disintegrate them, as it's basically metal particles in a clay carrier. I think I'll just go find the Wurth stuff to be safe.

[/quote]



I do respect RS Barn's experience. If I were setting up my car for racing and expected to have it appart often I'd have more of a tendency to use their experience. But since I'm not setting up my car that way, and I don't plan to revisit most of the areas of the car that I am working on now, I find it hard to go against my years being involved in the field of tribology. So, the following is just one person's opinion. Take it for what its worth.



As I stated earlier, professionally I would never have specified a paste for anything but sliding components, and definitely never in bearings (although I've seen info that says some anti-seize pastes (only the moly kind) can be used up to 150,000 dn (diam. in mm times rpm). I do like the use of an anti-seize paste for basically non-rotating parts such as the tensioner pivot pin which is a great application for a paste. And, if there is a fretting corrosion issue between the "upper timing belt gear and the triangle piece that slides on the exhaust camshaft" I could see it working for that. I'm still on the fence for the fork, as it can see a lot of relative rpm to the throwout bearing. I'll probably be using my Olista equivalent for that.



Having worked with lube manufacturers for specialty bearing applications, I can attest to the fact that all lubes, even though they appear the same on paper are not created equal. And, since I'm likely to purchase an anti-seize paste for the pin, does anyone know what the carrier is for the Wurth brand. I'd like to know more about the Wurth product. Two other brands are easy for me to find locally and they both look like they'd work well for the tensioner pivot. Permatex copper anti-seize #09128 has the micro-fine copper in a semi-sythetic grease. Loctite C5-A is a combo of copper and graphite in a high quality grease. I'm tempted to go with the Loctite unless I can find a distinquishing feature of the Wurth product.

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[Cloud9...68]

MB,



Thoughtful post, as always. The only bearings I applied the past to were the needle bearings in the fork, which see close to zero rpm - the only rotational movement they see is the pivoting action about the shaft when the clutch pedal is depressed. Do you think a copper-based anti-seize would be harmful in this application? Thanks.

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[flash]

on the splines, use castrol optimol paste TA. porsche part #000.043.020.00



on the bearings and fork, use olista longtime 3 EP. porsche part#000.043.024.00

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[tamathumper]

I called the dealership, they had no idea what Olista Longtime 3 EP was. Or any other flavor of Olista for that matter.



The guy in the parts department said they don't do any clutch jobs on 968's and I asked what they used for other clutch jobs, and he mumbled something - shortly after which I gave up.



Tits on a bull, I tell you. Nipples on a breastplate.

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[flash]

i just ordered both of them from sunset 2 minutes ago. both in stock. just use the part numbers.

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[MB968]

[quote name='Cloud9...68' timestamp='1334609404' post='125291']

MB,



Thoughtful post, as always. The only bearings I applied the past to were the needle bearings in the fork, which see close to zero rpm - the only rotational movement they see is the pivoting action about the shaft when the clutch pedal is depressed. Do you think a copper-based anti-seize would be harmful in this application? Thanks.

[/quote]

If you have already packed the needle bearings, I'd leave them as is. I don't think you are at any significant risk with the needle bearings; as you said basically zero speed; just don't see anti-seize as the best choice. However, that being said, the fork needle bearings are a real simple application for grease. Probably almost anything reasonable would work well enough, as long as it can stand up to higher temps and not cake with time causing skidding not rolling of the needles. My fork shaft looked a lot like the one shown above where the needles were no longer rolling, and had resulted in depressions where the needles rode on the shaft. My bearings were dry with the old lube caked pretty badly. This could also be a metallurgy issue. If I still had access to a lab, I'd check both the old and the new shaft for hardness. I'd like to know if its reasonable by today's standards.



And I should add, I also like the anti-seize paste for the spline shaft to clutch disc interface. It goes on thin enough that there is very little risk of any coming off and getting onto the clutch surfaces.

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[tamathumper]

There was, effectively, no lubrication on that cross shaft - it was just all full of black powder up in there.

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