08-25-2008, 10:09 PM
Thought I'd share some pictures of my recent master cylinder replacement. Please forgive the low-res cellphone images - ugly but they get the job done. I would think anyone armed with the Clarke-Garage how-to and these pics should have an easy go of it.
Mostly I wanted to share how much easier this job is if you remove the fusebox first. Just remove the two screws at opposite corners, and lift and twist the harness to create as much slack as possible - the wires are thick and bendy and used to being pretzeled up - be gentle! I used a bungee to hold the fuse box under tension away from the opening it wanted to pop back into - protect your fender!
Here's a shot of after removing same - you can see right down through to the carpet.
![[Image: clutchaccess.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess.jpg)
A shroud covers the clutch pedal. Remove a coupla plastic nuts and it's off.
![[Image: clutchaccess2.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess2.jpg)
![[Image: clutchaccess3.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess3.jpg)
So ahah! there it is... very easy now to remove the clip holding clutch pedal linkage to the master cylinder shaft coming through the firewall. Now - while we're looking at this I want to say that replacing the spindle through the linkage and new clutch cylinder plunger was NOT EASY - contortionism is not possible to avoid under the steering wheel. I found the sheet metal housing surrounding the fuse box and supporting the top pivot point of the clutch linkage left *almost zero* clearance under which to re-insert the spindle into and through the lower, clutch-side pivot point. Eventually, somehow, it went in but I had a bear of a time doing it. Maybe it was the fact that I was upside down on my back with the brake pedal a millimeter from my right eyeball with a shop light clenched in my teeth and with no room to move my arms that cramped my style. Comes *out* real easy, though. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
![[Image: clutchaccess4.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess4.jpg)
Here's the new cylinder ready to install.
![[Image: clutchaccess4aq.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess4aq.jpg)
The factory manual gives a precise measurement between firewall and center of spindle... the Clarke's Garage tutorial translates this into mm you can measure *prior* to installing. Much, much, easier than lying on your back under the steering wheel. In my case, the measurement of the old master cylinder matched the CG spec exactly - nice. That's Clarke's nice write-up under the tape.
![[Image: clutchaccess5a.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess5a.jpg)
Here's the new cylinder on the engine side of the firewall ready to be fixed with two nuts. Paper towels keep any brake fluid drips off the paint.
![[Image: clutchaccess6.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess6.jpg)
Just for fun - here's my version of the famous Flash Stainless Steel Clutch Pressure Hose - just waiting for my Brand New Porsche-Branded Rubber Clutch Pressure Hose to burst.
![[Image: clutchhose.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchhose.jpg)
Hope you find this helpful or informative.
Mostly I wanted to share how much easier this job is if you remove the fusebox first. Just remove the two screws at opposite corners, and lift and twist the harness to create as much slack as possible - the wires are thick and bendy and used to being pretzeled up - be gentle! I used a bungee to hold the fuse box under tension away from the opening it wanted to pop back into - protect your fender!
Here's a shot of after removing same - you can see right down through to the carpet.
![[Image: clutchaccess.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess.jpg)
A shroud covers the clutch pedal. Remove a coupla plastic nuts and it's off.
![[Image: clutchaccess2.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess2.jpg)
![[Image: clutchaccess3.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess3.jpg)
So ahah! there it is... very easy now to remove the clip holding clutch pedal linkage to the master cylinder shaft coming through the firewall. Now - while we're looking at this I want to say that replacing the spindle through the linkage and new clutch cylinder plunger was NOT EASY - contortionism is not possible to avoid under the steering wheel. I found the sheet metal housing surrounding the fuse box and supporting the top pivot point of the clutch linkage left *almost zero* clearance under which to re-insert the spindle into and through the lower, clutch-side pivot point. Eventually, somehow, it went in but I had a bear of a time doing it. Maybe it was the fact that I was upside down on my back with the brake pedal a millimeter from my right eyeball with a shop light clenched in my teeth and with no room to move my arms that cramped my style. Comes *out* real easy, though. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
![[Image: clutchaccess4.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess4.jpg)
Here's the new cylinder ready to install.
![[Image: clutchaccess4aq.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess4aq.jpg)
The factory manual gives a precise measurement between firewall and center of spindle... the Clarke's Garage tutorial translates this into mm you can measure *prior* to installing. Much, much, easier than lying on your back under the steering wheel. In my case, the measurement of the old master cylinder matched the CG spec exactly - nice. That's Clarke's nice write-up under the tape.
![[Image: clutchaccess5a.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess5a.jpg)
Here's the new cylinder on the engine side of the firewall ready to be fixed with two nuts. Paper towels keep any brake fluid drips off the paint.
![[Image: clutchaccess6.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchaccess6.jpg)
Just for fun - here's my version of the famous Flash Stainless Steel Clutch Pressure Hose - just waiting for my Brand New Porsche-Branded Rubber Clutch Pressure Hose to burst.
![[Image: clutchhose.jpg]](http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x129/chakadog/clutchfix/clutchhose.jpg)
Hope you find this helpful or informative.
(This post was last modified: 08-25-2008, 10:12 PM by apex.)

