[Glau]

Well, after spending a few hours cleaning up my '94 cab with just under 40k miles -- it happened! I took the car out for a quick joy ride and sure enough a few blocks after pulling off the highway, I am at a stop light and took off normally then went to shift into second and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor. Pulled over and oil was dripping under the car at the clutch. I got the car rolling, popped it into first, then was able to get it into third and limped home, blowing a few stop signs along the way <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/unsure.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Anyway, I know there are a lot of threads on this topic and I plan on getting the SS clutch hose from RS Barn installed. After investigating a bit I am going to replace the hoses and both master and slave cylinders and it looks like I should be looking at $250-350ish for parts and 2-3 hours for labor? The car has been driving and shifting great so there was no warning and I am assuming the clutch itself still has a number of good low milage years left in it.



I just wanted to re-emphasize to peps that if you thought your lower milage car was safe from this happening its not. This really seems to be an age related issue. Did I missing anything or does anyone have any advise on this topic?



Glau

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[flash]

nope - you got it all - just make sure they use a pressure bleeder - the pedal should be firm and up top, not halfway down before it engages - don't let them tell you otherwise



sorry it happened to you, but yes, it WILL happen to everybody if they don't change that stuff out

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[Jason Judd]

I recently replaced my hoses, and still sometimes I have a clutch pedal that doesn't return all the back...I have to put my foot under the pedal and pull it back; then all is fine...until it happens again.



Kind of a pain on the track, but there's worse things that can happen.



I guess I wonder what I'll have to replace to fix this? Some people have suggested I may have a lazy pressure plate...and others have suggested a bad slave cylinder.



I may wait for RS Barn's lightweight pressure plate this winter and possibly test the slave cylinder at that time, too...How do you test the slave cylinder, though?



Jason

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[josephsc]

I just went through this recently (for a second 968....). I'd also get

* blue line to the reservoir, since you're there and it's cheap -- not necessary but I don't like frayed lines in my engine bay.

* clutch master cylinder gasket to the firewall -- why reuse gaskets?



Tool-wise, you'll need some trickery to get at the master cylinder bolts -- I used a 3/8 drive universal joint socket. 1/4 drive ratchet might have made things easier. Also a really long (10" min) extension to get at the plastic nuts on the plastic cover in the footwell.

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[Darth Vadar]

Just did all of the above on my 1992 Coupe, which had it's clutch hydraulics living on barrow'd time, by the sound of it!



Trust me, it's a lot easier to assemble all of the stuff in the comfort of your garage than out on the side of the highway!



I've got a post up on the Technical Topics that covers both the hardware and the bleeding of the system...



Jason, my gut feeling is that your issue is a Bleeding one...mine did the exact same thing after I first bled it...then I went thru the drill of Push, Hold to a 10 count, Release, and then rebled it again with the Power Bleeder, and it is tight as a drum and comes back to the top every time!

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[mrayner]

My clutch pedal hit the floor today and did not come back up! Luckily I was parked at the Chevron when this happened. I have a 92' 968. Lowish milege (75k). The clutch hose blew and so of course the hydralics failed. I have a new clutch hose, master and slave cylinder on order. I feel really silly for not replacing this earlier especially after reading similiar postings. I regularly service the car and this came without any warning...just age.



To reiterate Glau and what others have said. This will happen to you if you do nothing, (quite a common failure according to my local mechanic) so best be safe than sorry and replace these old parts. I am so glad I was parked with this happened!



- Mike

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[jpk]

I've already replaced mine, but I ran across a good bit of advice recently that would have made the master cylinder install a lot easier. If you pull the main board out of the fuse box, you can have much easier acess to connect the clutch pedal than you would lying on your back under the dash. The board in the fuse box comes out pretty easy - loosen the two big black plastic screws, and the entire board can be (gently) lifted up enough to get to the clutch pedal pin from above. There's another plastic cover for the wire harness underneeth the dash that needs to come out as well.

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[Scott Collins]

[quote name='mrayner' post='56307' date='Jul 14 2008, 05:35 PM']My clutch pedal hit the floor today and did not come back up! Luckily I was parked at the Chevron when this happened. I have a 92' 968. Lowish milege (75k). The clutch hose blew and so of course the hydralics failed. I have a new clutch hose, master and slave cylinder on order. I feel really silly for not replacing this earlier especially after reading similiar postings. I regularly service the car and this came without any warning...just age.



To reiterate Glau and what others have said. This will happen to you if you do nothing, (quite a common failure according to my local mechanic) so best be safe than sorry and replace these old parts. I am so glad I was parked with this happened!



- Mike[/quote]



Mike-



I had the same problem - replaced the blown clutch hose with the SS RS Barn hose and did the bleed with

the Motive Power Bleeder. I had 64K miles at the time. Now have 66K miles. Much firmer clutch pedal feel now. I recommend that RS Barn hose from personal experience.



3-4 hrs was my experience, and I just did the hose and bleed, and I am slow as molasses in January....



Best of luck!



-Scott

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[xrad]

Don't mean to hijack thred but In some other thread, someone mentioned the firewall giving out. I was under the dash today and noticed a heavy three inch long weld across the firewall parallel to the floor. It was painted white but did not look like a robot weld. looked old too. maybe a repair?? anyone else have one?

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