[flash]

ok - so i'm contemplating a new mod (imagine that) - i need some help from the other side of the pond



i have been thinking about it for a long time now and am getting ready to do it - the RHD cars have the battery in the left rear wheel well - it must sit on a bracket or something - i need a part nubmer, or a pic or something so i can figure out my mod



i'm thinking of moving the battery to the right rear wheel well - it's a weight thing - plus, i want to put the sub on that side



i'd be changing to a different battery that is more square and taller, so it fits in the hole



i want to see what they did on the other side though, rather than start from scratch, though that may be what i end up doing anyway



so, a part number for the bracket would be great - so would the group number for the battery

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[Duffer4126]

Sorry for opening a old thread.... Is there a DIY or write up with pictures of this change? Looking to make this mod. Also.

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[Eric_Oz_S2]

Shall I take some photos of the boot mounted battery tray in my s2?

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[flash]

i have not done a DIY. it involved making a tray assembly, a set of isolator blocks, a long 4200 strand cable, and new ground cable. all in, doing it myself, i think i spent about $200 on it, not counting the gel type battery required when you do this, as it is then in the passenger compartment, which would allow dangerous outgassing.

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[Duffer4126]

Understand... When I did it in the 70's to my 2002s.. I started with a Sears marine battery case vented out the bottom rear of car. Can I get a few pictures from the gurus here who have move there batteries. I have seen rear battery rack that connects to tops of shock towers and battery sets in the rack.



Rich

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[flash]

we don't have rear shock towers. the only place it can go is behind the wheel well. that requires making a saddle, suspending it, and then mounting the battery in it.



rhd cars came with the makings of a battery location in the rear (cabs actually had it there). lhd cars did not.



additionally, the voltage drop from front to rear makes the connections and cable very integral to the success of the project. standard battery cable and lead connectors did not work well. i lost nearly a volt. i had to go with gold connectors, and 4200 strand 0 guage cable.



further, this would also then require a corner balance, as shifting that much weight from front to rear really throws things off.



so, between the battery, the assembly to mount and move it, and the corner balance, you're looking at a grand or so.



i had planned to make the saddles, and have higher connections sell them, but it pretty much fell on its face, due to a lack of enthusiasm. likely this was a result of the cost factor.

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[Duffer4126]

Thanks... Sound like something to move down the list of changes for a while. Guess I need to slow down on the mods and just get more seat time on the track and back roads. Then work the list again base on what I have now and what the I think I need. And based on all the info in this great 968 group of owners, should be FUN!

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[flash]

yeah - it's a valid mod, but it's pricey for what you get, and quite a job. you may or may not decide to do it, once you have had a chance to spend time with the car. it's hard to avoid the urge to get in and change things though. i've ended up reversing a lot of what i originally did, because i didn't spend enough time with the car first.

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[Rap]

Seat, harness and roll bar are good mods for the track.

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[flash]

valid point, but back on topic, the battery move was a good thing for me, but then, i drive a cab. i needed to move weight to the rear, as the cabs are 75# front heavy. the hardtops start off 66# tail heavy. so, it's not as much of an issue, until you start deleting other weight. then you may need to do it to balance things back out.

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[Eric_Oz_S2]

I disagree that it is difficult or expensive.



For starters you do not need a gel battery. Row cars had normal lead acid batteries.



A tray would not be that hard at all to install.



My friend converted a lhd 951 to rhd and installed the battery in the rear using standard battery cable and connectors. No problems.



No disrespect, but from my experience I think you are overstating the problems with this conversion just a little. What I would say though, is that for a normal lhd car the benefits would be minimal apart from potentially increased battery life.

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[Duffer4126]

Agreed... Need to get seats(Beard?), harnesses(Simpson) rotors(Zimmerman?) pads(???) wheel/tires(track set & street set)...etc .. Then start a diet plan. So I guess I need to read! Then read some more.... Then ask the 968 gurus here.

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[ampegboy1]

At last I can be of use <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> My battery went flat so I pulled it out to charge this morning and photographed the tray. Apologies for the quality of the camera-phone pic!







This is for a right-hand drive (UK) 968 Sport (coupe). Left-hand side of the picture is towards the rear of the car. Top of the picture is the left-hand rear wing, behind the wheel. Top-right corner is the wheel-arch. Yellow area bottom-right is the foam lining of the carpet cover, folded back over the boot floor. Beige pipe on the left-hand side is the vent hose for the original battery. Bare cable on bottom-left is the ground cable, black cable on top-right is the positive.



Michael

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[flash]

thanks - this shows some of the things needed. note the drain hose. that would require punching a hole in the car (not something many want to do). the tray is welded in (again, not something many want to do). getting it fitted properly would require a press break and a shear to make a plate that wouldn't bend or collapse under the impact loads while driving (not generally available to most people)



it's not all that complicated, but if you don't have the stuff, it can be a daunting project. i did it, and it works fine. however, i had access.



the costs are still the costs though.

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