[williamoss]

this may not be the response that you were looking at. but in 1980 without any experience of auto mechanics I took on the project of rebuilding a Toyota engine from the head all the way down to the crank and bearings. First I went to Sears and made a sales man very happy as I bought a full set of metric everything with 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 drives, Tork wrenches etc. Shallow a deep sockets the works, and a nice tool chest to put everything into it. I glad I did this back in 1980 as I hate to think what it would cost now. I also bought some special tools from Snap on as they have all the special tools one needs for all the different cars. Like you I took lots of pictures but what I did differently to you was if I took a part out with 5 screws I taped those screws into the holes so in 6 months when I put the part back on all 5 of the screws washers and nuts were already in the proper holes. I ended up do the brakes valves re-bored the cylinders turned the crank the bearings new clutch the works front to back. Did not have to touch the transmission as it was OK. After the entire project i had 2 screws left over which i never figured out where they went.

This project was to not drive my 924 D production in the winter. I drove the Toyota Beast for 6 years and never had any trouble with it.

Good luck to you on this project.

William Moss
Tigard OR

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[Lear35A]

William makes a good point. You WILL forget where stuff goes, so pictures, parts catalog, workshop manual, etc. are musts.
I put my fasteners in little cartons labeled with the item they are used with. The problem with tape is cleaning the part. But DO something so you know what every fastener is for!
Lance

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[Lear35A]

One major item has now been decided. After my first, and very enjoyable, conversation with Pete at RSBarn, I ordered his flywheel with pressure plate and clutch disc. And taking his advice I ordered quite a few other odds and ends. I gave my credit card a workout, but I want to do this right and was glad to get the benefit of Pete's experience. Thanks Pete!
Lance

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[Joel968]

Did Gary Grimes do the machine and sleeve work?

Cheers,
Joel

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[Lear35A]

No, Tim at Engine Systems, Inc in Tucker did the work.
Lance

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[Lear35A]

OK, I am now into the reassembly. Here's a few views of where I stand. I did the "outside" of the block before the crank and pistons just because of the order the parts came in. So far I see no disadvantage to doing it this way. I am glad I took a lot of pictures, but I did not take enough. Little things like where little brackets go are not shown clearly or at all in the PET or workshop manual. My real challenge will be on the head with cam timing and then getting everything hooked up in the engine bay. This part has been straightforward and pretty easy. My hours of clean up work are paying off; my hands are not getting dirty as I put this back together.

My mantra is: " I will not add up all the parts invoices; I will not add up all the parts invoices; I will not add up all the parts invoices..."

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[Monstrous4Banger]

Well, since your not adding up all the invoices......time for a turbo! hehehehehe

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[apex]

Lear - good on ya - nice to see some progress. Keep us posted.

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[tim944s]

Great pictures! Thanks for the good reading too.

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[JWahlsten]

What kind of pistons and rings are you using since you are now running them in steel instead of the cylinders themselves? You may have addressed this earlier, but I didn't go back to the beginning. Great project!

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[Lear35A]

Progress is being made albeit more slowly than surely. The bottom end is buttoned up. I am so paranoid about oil leaks. I hope I used the sealant properly. I wonder what it would cost to run this thing on a dyno before I put it back in the car? I would so like to know there are no leaks. I'll be sweating it; that's for sure.

I dropped the head on before I left today just to see it there. Looks pretty good, huh [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]

Is there anybody in the southeast that's done the cams and worked out the tools for the timing that would like to come help me? I'd come get you in my plane (and bring you back too), buy a good lunch, the whole deal.

The shop that did the sleeving ordered the rings special from some racing outfit in Las Vegas. I'm staying with the stock pistons.

And the other side

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[flash]

lol - though i should have guessed, if we knew you had a plane, we could have had you go load your engine, go up to PA, pick up max, and then fly out here, so he could have done yours and mine at the same time, and we could have made a whole "hoo-ha" out of it - you would have had to make 2 fuel stops each way, but it would have done it

hmmm - a quick look at 35A prices makes them look pretty darned attractive..........

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[Lear35A]

Now that's a LOL. My plane's a Mooney, which is why I limited my inquiry to the SE. I do fly a 35A for an individual who can afford the fuel a LOT more than I could ever dream of. Fun ride. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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[flash]

interesting - i have been looking at options for a plane lately - trying to decide between owning, time share, leasing, renting, yada yada

fortunately the wife is in a unique position to facilitate that, so it may turn out a lot better than what i have had to do in the past

anyway, back to the topic - i would look at contacting rs barn and seeing what they might be able to hook you up with - the network is large

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[firefish]

The Mooneys are pretty fast as far as SEP goes.

BOT:
What are the advantages of running a sleeved block (save for fixing the crack off course)? Stiffer walls, better choice of rings?
How are the sleeves secured in the engine block, I'm guessing they have a lip up top and that they are lowered into position?
How wide is the steel surface for the head gasket to seal against?

Your engine looks like new, good work! Can I send you mine? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

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[Lear35A]

As expected the reassembly is going slowly. I had a setback this week and had to go backwards some. It seems I didn't have the so-called oil pump toothed sleeve slid properly into the pump. This meant taking off all the belt related stuff, removing the pan, removing the oil pump and then putting everything back.

Thanks to 968Forms member Steve I am going to use a 944S2 pulley with my 18# RSB flywheel.

I am ready to tackle the cam timing. I just have to set up my 2 dial indicators, and I'll go at it.

Picture is how things are looking now.

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[flash]

you will need to make a couple of modifications to run the S2 pulley - not hard, but needed - only took me a few minutes - the pulleys are the same diameter at the grooves, but they don't fit exactly the same

1. you will need to open up the hole in the plastic cover about .30" diameter, as the S2 pulley has a rear shoulder that interferes

2. you will need to replace the lower balance belt guide retaining screw with a socket head cap screw and grind down the flutes on the head of the screw, reducing the diameter by about .020" - this is to clear the rear shoulder of the pulley

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[Ryan]

Lance, have you made an adapter to pressurize the variocam tensioner? I remember someone on this site made one and it looked pretty simple if you weld.

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[Lear35A]

Flash, thanks for the heads up on the S2 pulley adaptation. I took a close look at things and quickly saw the conflict between the pulley flange and one fastener on the balance shaft belt guide. Here's a picture of the screw where I turned down the head as much as I could. It's still close, but safe. I do not see a conflict with the plastic cover. Here's a picture where you can see the slight gap between the cover and the flange on the pulley. It should be ok.

Ryan, generous forum member Jim loaned me his variocam pressurization tool-the official factory part!

Firefish, I'm going to get and post some more info on the sleeves. I honestly don't know the process, but you have made me curious.

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[flash]

interesting - mine touched the cover when the pulley went around - as i said though, i only had to remove a little bit to make sure it cleared under load (when the rubber flexes)

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