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968 Engtine Rebuild 1
#61

lol - well, this is what almost certainly WILL happen:

you'll get it all together, after wrestling with the tight space, and finally bleeding it out, you'll drive it for a little while, and then the weaker and older master cylinder seal will fail due to the increased pressure from the other new parts

do it now or do it later, but if that master is more than a couple of years old, or if the seal ever saw any condensation contamination or deposit contamination, you will be doing it either way
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#62

I need to leave something to fix later, don't I?
BTW, Flash, did you get my PM regarding the DIY I'd sent in?
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#63

lol - there will always be things to do - i just hate having to go back into the same place twice, especially when doing it the first time costs very little - the clutch balancing and clutch master are like that - very few bucks now - royal pain in the butt later

the cross member is similar but more expensive - you already have the motor mounts out, and the engine out - that makes it very easy to change,and it makes it simple to drop the pan with the 3 piece (though you shouldn't have to do it now) - once the engine is back in though it is a lot harder

i did get the PM - i've been nuts today screaming at people to finish my parts

i'll peek at it shortly and get it up onto the site - thanks

good luck
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#64

Wow I didnt realize this engine was going in a car within driving distance. I'd love to see it in person.
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#65

Are you friendly with a decent automotive machine shop? I bet you could have your crossmember cut into three pieces, and have flanges welded to the ends. I'm sure that's what Lindsey does (the fact that they take your existing crossmember as a core is what tipped me off to this...). Not to take business away from Lindsey, as they seem to be a well-respected outfit, but just the cost of shipping the new and old crossmember back and forth to them must get pretty pricey, when you could probably convert your own to a three-piece. Just a thought (one I wish had when I replaced my engine mounts a few years ago)...
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#66

the minute i have to drop the pan i'm changing to it
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#67

"Wow I didnt realize this engine was going in a car within driving distance. I'd love to see it in person. "

Come on down! It's not far, and I'd love to have an assembled car to look at.
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#68

No words needed.
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#69

And the beast regains its heart...
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#70

OK I have to come see it.
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#71

Now would be a good time to replace the two reservoirs with new ones. Your engine bay will look factory fresh!
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#72

Looks amazing in person.
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#73

Great work.
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#74

Engine goes in from bottom installed on cross member with Bell Housing and clutch assy attached
Lower chassis and install cross member bolts.
Then connect TT to bell housing and insert intermediate shaft through clutch assembly
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#75

Pete, It's obvious that is how the car was assembled by Porsche. However, the workshop manual has it going in from the top. Without a lift you don't have much choice. With millimeters to spare it will go in from the top, but it takes (at least) 2 people and a fair amount of patience. This was kind of like the cam timing...scary before you do it for the first time, but not that bad if you go slowly and carefully. I had the clutch assembly and bell housing attached with intermediate shaft slid all the way back on the drive shaft. Actually lining up the bell housing with the flange on the drive shaft tube (TT?) wasn't that bad. More difficult was then lining up the engine support brackets onto the motor mounts that I had already installed on the cross member.
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#76

I am in a frustrating hold. I thought the car might run again over the weekend. However, I had purchased the Canton Racing Products replaceable element oil filter. I saw a lot of very positive posts about this unit on the forum, and I'd always detested the mess in changing the spin on filter on my 944, my 951 and now my 968.
When I tried to put it in, I could not get the gasket in the base to seat in its groove. I thought for sure I had an out of spec gasket. So I waited until this morning to talk to Canton. The very helpful tech claimed that my gasket was ok, just difficult to get in. I talked to him twice, tried very hard to duplicate the method he described, let two others try and finally gave up. Called him again and got a returned goods authorization and sent it back. He said he'd put the gasket in and send it back. So I lose another week.
I'll use the time to go over all the oil, water, and vacuum hose connections. Again.
After being down for a year and a half another week is not a big deal, but still frustrating.
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#77

I know what you mean about the Canton gasket. Mine seemed off too, but I got it to seal. Just throw a K&N on there for now and about 3k miles, then spin on the Canton. I used a K&N prior to the Canton, and especially liked the socket fitting on the top of the filter, which made it really easy to spin off. But still the mess.... Oh well...
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#78

hmmm - i haven't had that problem - what exactly is it doing?
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#79

No way I could get it to stay in the groove. The id and od looked about right, but it's tough to measure a rubber ring diameter to a thou or two. The groove is ~.146" wide and the o-ring is ~.167" wide. No matter how I stretched or pushed or held or whatever, it would just pop out. I spent literally hours messing with the thing, and I had two others try as well. Doesn't matter now. I sent it back, and Canton can figure it out.

By the way, the tech said it was supposed to be like that. However, I can see no technical justification for needing an interference fit with an o-ring. It seals by expansion under compression. No need to "extrude" it first. IMHO, it's just a bad design. If you have a regular spin on filter laying around, note how easy it is to take out the o-ring. The Canton is just a spin on filter with removable guts, and I don't see them knowing something that companies like Fram don't. rant off
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#80

hmmm - i'll have to check that out the next time i have one of mine off - i have a couple of seals here, but have not changed it
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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