[adelbalso]

To check wheel bearings, excellence magazine a month back, in the tech Q&A they recommend jacking up one corner, and moving the wheel from the 12 and 6 o'clock positions.



I did this and found a lot of play on my drivers front wheel, and none on the rear drivers (figured one side was enough, and I'll fix both sides when I find a wheel lock key).



Is there an adjustment for wheel bearings? I seem to recall on older cars you would tighten them down until the play disappeared and then pin the nut holding it all together.



Can anyone check a manual to find out?



Thanks in advance.

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[PorscheDude]

Online manual for down load.

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm



Yes, they are adjustable. May be a good time to clean and repack the bearings.

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[sasilverbullet]

be careful not to adjust ALL the play out. They should wiggle "slightly" when bone cold. This is to allow for expansion when they heat up.

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[PorscheDude]

When you get those wheel locks off, here are some good replacements......



http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=4706

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[adelbalso]

[quote name='smokiemon968' post='43937' date='Nov 23 2007, 07:00 PM']When you get those wheel locks off, here are some good replacements......



http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=4706[/quote]



Thanks for the tip on the downloadable manuals. That is very helpful, I've been to three stores and haven't found a 968 manual yet.



Nice wheel locks, I recognize them from the car manual. I have chrome wheels though, so I'll probably pick up either all new lug nuts, or a new locking set that is chrome to help hide them.



Hopefully the dealer will come through and get ahold of the previous owner to find out where the key is.



From the look of the manual, it's not easy to remove the front wheel bearings to repack them. A bunch of heating parts somehow, and special tools, a press, etc.



I'll probably just adjust them to reduce the play, and close them back up.

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[sasilverbullet]

the manual makes everything look difficult!



Normal set of tools and if you've done other cars, ours it not much different...be brave and tackle it!

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[968rz]

All those "special tools" are for changing the bearings not repacking them, the hardest part about repacking is getting the old seal off the rear of the hub (putting the new one on is easy).

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[RickP]

Speedy,

If your locks are Porsche, your local dealer has a master set and can get the old ones off for you.



Rick

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[flash]

if it is the late style locks, not the ones that use a regular key like a door key, but rather the ones that look like "normal" lug locks, they are made by mcgard - there are 50 different keys, and most dealers have them all in a set



if you can get the dealer to tell you which number it is (1-50) you can call mcgard and they will sell you the key for something like 16 bucks

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[adelbalso]

I went to two tire shops, and porsche, and not one person had ever even seen this style of locking nut before.



At my regular tire shop, they broke them free for $40, and were going to give me free lug nuts to put on. I came back a bit later, locks are off, but not new nuts. They didn't have the ball style lug nuts that are on the porsche wheels.



So I'm on 4 lugs for the moment.



When I get all the parts for a brake job, I think I'll repack and adjust the wheel bearings at the same time.





Can anyone tell me the PN for that seal that needs to be replaced?

Can anyone tell me the PN for the tool required to push the pistons back into their bores to install new thick pads?

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[bob blackwell]

Well, I use a large pair of channel-lock pliars and they work just fine. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[adelbalso]

[quote name='bob blackwell' post='44452' date='Dec 8 2007, 02:46 PM']Well, I use a large pair of channel-lock pliars and they work just fine. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.[/quote]



I recently red through a couple brake job threads, and found many people use channel locks pliers, or a screwdriver. I'm not sure how the screwdriver plan works, it seems you'd have to use the disk brake surface to get leverage, and I wouldn't want to gouge that. I'll try the channel locks or a big c-clamp (if I can find mine).



Is this the PN for the seal in the back?

477-405-641-M30



From Pelican parts diagrams.



So the consensus is, without any special tools, I should be able to remove the wheel/caliper/disk/bearings/seals, replace seals, inspect and repack bearings, reinstall parts, replace brake pads, bleed brakes (I'm using speed bleeders) without any trouble.



Thanks everyone, I can't wait to do this, I want to work on it during my Christmas holiday.

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[jpk]

As cheap as the bearings are, I would just replace them; but then you have to deal with pressing out/in the outer races.

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[ldeprat]

[quote name='jpk' post='44567' date='Dec 12 2007, 09:16 PM']As cheap as the bearings are, I would just replace them; but then you have to deal with pressing out/in the outer races.[/quote]And that is the tricky part. I went through the process of "baking the hubs and freezing the races" on my old 944 but it was still a bear getting them in and out without special tools and a press.



Easiest is just to repack and adjust.

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[PorscheDude]

Last time I did the bearings on my 944, I took them to a local automotive machine shop to have them R&R the races. They charged me less than $20.

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