[moses]

So I bumped the 3 pin electrical connector behind the distributor (close to the power steering res) when I was changing the oil and it just burst into a dozen pieces, like tempered glass. Old brittle plastic. So what does it do? I can't even tell which way to plug it back in (the inner connector is still good, it's the housing that self-destructed). I tried the car without the connector plugged in and it runs but it jerks once when you let off the throttle and doesn't "find" idle well, although once at idle speed it idles ok.



As always any help gratefully appreciated. Although advising me not to bump things I don't understand would just be wasted.



Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays,

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[rob76turbo]

I think you cracked the housing for the Hall Sensor. It is kind of an expensive part. You may want to PM Flash or RS Barn Pete, as they may be of some assistance to you.

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[Cloud9...68]

I believe that's the Hall sensor. The timing of your post is very coincidental, as I was going to post something very similar about it. The casing of mine too went Crunch! and totally disintegrated when I was working in the general area this past spring and decided I had to touch it for some reason. Not knowing what else to do, I made a "temporary" repair and wrapped the undamaged innards in electrical tape, wrapped a zip tie around the sorry-looking mess, and kind of stuffed it into that miserably inaccessable space between the power steering reservoir, the heater pipe, and the heater control valve. I know, I know, "Bad garage mechanic!"



But, as far as I can tell, my "repair" has caused no ill effects. The shoddy patch job was staring me in the face the whole time I was installing my shiny new heat shield tonight, though, so I was going to start a thread asking what symptoms a dead or dying Hall sensor is likely to give, but you pretty much answered my question. My car isn't displaying any of these symptoms.



But still, I worry it's only a matter of time before my patch job gives out. A few years ago, somebody on this board ran into a supply of Hall sensors, and negotiated a very cheap group buy. Stupidly, I didn't participate. Anybody know of an inexpensive source of these things? Should I proactively replace mine, or just wait until it dies? Thanks.



As far as your case, it seems that all you need is a little trial and error to figure out how to plug yours back in, then you could make a temporary repair like mine while waiting for your new one to arrive.

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[biotechee]

Cloud-



I think the group buy hall sensors were so inexpensive because they didn't come with the factory end connections on it, but I could be wrong. I seem to remember that you would have to resuse the factory connector.



I too did not participate in the group buy so I am not really sure. Perhaps I will search and try to find the thread... Don't see a reason why another group buy couldn't be attempted.



EDIT- Brett968 was the member who organized the group buy and gathered all the parts to make the hall sender assemblies. The thread was started on June 5, 2006 (sorry- I haven't figured out how to link a thread within a thread yet). If you search for "hall" in thread titles only, it will be one of the threads at the top of the list. I don't know if Brett968 is still active...

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[banditsc]

This 928 shop has what appears to be a cheap solution to the problem..

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/3wireconnector.php

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[moses]

thanks for the help, this forum is great.



I'm going to sort this out and do some other work, I'll update when have some good news.



BTW, I'm thinking that the rough running was from the vacuum leak I apparently created by pulling the vacuum hose off the heater valve when I was trying to figure out where the wire from the connector I broke went. But I won't know for sure until I restart the car after the other work.



I wonder what I'm going to break trying to fix the other things I broke. Wasn't there a thread recently about bonehead maintenance stories? In my defence, there is a buttload of very fragile plastic under that 15-year-old engine hood. As I recall I think I once dumped a VW GTi mostly because of all the decaying plastic parts, the metal parts were still fine.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='banditsc' post='64693' date='Dec 26 2008, 07:53 AM']This 928 shop has what appears to be a cheap solution to the problem..

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/3wireconnector.php[/quote]

This looks really good. Does anybody have any experience with this fix? Will it definitely fit around the 968's Hall sensor connector? Thanks.

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[flash]

moses - we are all happy to help - that's why we're here, and why this is THE place for 968 info



that hall sensor is in a very bad place, same as the heater control valve - i never understood that - the are subject to extreme heat from the exhaust manifold, and end up failing as a result - there is now a heat shield available to mitigate that

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[banditsc]

[quote name='Cloud9...68' post='64699' date='Dec 26 2008, 10:16 AM']This looks really good. Does anybody have any experience with this fix? Will it definitely fit around the 968's Hall sensor connector? Thanks.[/quote]



I haven't tried it myself, but I need to, my connector fell apart also. It mentions 944's on there also whice are the same sensor, so it should be fine.

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[xrad]

Mine fell apart , too. Rewired and used Eagle Day connectors.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='xrad' post='64717' date='Dec 26 2008, 06:32 PM']Mine fell apart , too. Rewired and used Eagle Day connectors.[/quote]

Would you by chance remember the type connector you used? Did you use Eagle Day because they have a reputation for being excellent? And do you know if they are likely to be available at local electrical supply stores, or are they generally only available through mail order? Thanks.

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[PorscheDude]

probably only thru mail order. Not exactley a common connector.

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[xrad]

http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html



3 wire weather-proof connector. make sure you get the male and female set...and you may want to pick up the tool and some spare crimps. I always crimp and solder the base of the crimp connections. MAKE SURE that you connect the correct wires together. You may have to pull the dizzy to extend the wires. They are not heavy duty wires coming out of the back of the dizzy.



Additionally, I have used at least 20 or so AMP junior (POWER style) connectors for various projects requiring bosch connectors(from 2 pin injector to 6 pin igniter). These are far better made of a heavy duty fiber/resin and are 'Easy Off' w/one finger spring clip. They are expensive. Eagle Day ships extremely fast so you will have your stuff quickly.



A while back I was looking for a quality bosch style connector. Some cheaper quality and less expensive versions are out there, but the Amp Junior's are the best IMHO.



AND, Eagle Day takes paypal which makes everything much easier!

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks, xrad. Just to be clear, are we talking about part # WMC-100, and then selecting "3-WAY = QTY 2 male and female cdonnectors per pack"? This looks right, just want to be sure.



For some inexplicable reason, my whole Hall sensor connector assembly is tucked way down into the space between the heat shield and the heater pipe, a good distance away from the holder that is supposed to hold the connector. I'm going to have to somehow fish it out of there, and maybe extend the length of the wires to get it back where it's supposed to be. Strange. Anyway, thanks to my new heat shield, the new connector should last much longer.

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[xrad]

Yep. This Hall effect sender has three wires...



(+) for power in

(-) for ground

(Green) for signal to DME



You may have to do some tricky soldering to add some length to the hall sender wires. I would strongly recommend that you build the Male/Female connector with 4-5inch flying leads in red, black, and green FIRST(does not matter in what order the are placed into the connector, as long as they are hooked up to the respective harness and sensor wires). Then you can trim those to length as needed to fit the existing wires.



Two wires should be in a their own wrap (the red and green ones coming from the wiring harness). You may have to trim some of this back to get enough wire to solder well. Avoid crusty corroded wire and cut back to good stuff. Wires from the sensor are small and weak so be careful.



AGAIN: be sure to hook up the right wires and sweat out good connections...you only want to do this once.

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[968gene]

[quote name='xrad' post='64738' date='Dec 27 2008, 07:23 PM'](does not matter in what order the are placed into the connector, as long as they are hooked up to the respective harness and sensor wires).[/quote]



...unless someone comes behind you later and tries to plug and play a new hall sensor, and the wiring was incorrect... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='xrad' post='64738' date='Dec 27 2008, 06:23 PM']Yep. This Hall effect sender has three wires...



(+) for power in

(-) for ground

(Green) for signal to DME



You may have to do some tricky soldering to add some length to the hall sender wires. I would strongly recommend that you build the Male/Female connector with 4-5inch flying leads in red, black, and green FIRST(does not matter in what order the are placed into the connector, as long as they are hooked up to the respective harness and sensor wires). Then you can trim those to length as needed to fit the existing wires.



Two wires should be in a their own wrap (the red and green ones coming from the wiring harness). You may have to trim some of this back to get enough wire to solder well. Avoid crusty corroded wire and cut back to good stuff. Wires from the sensor are small and weak so be careful.



AGAIN: be sure to hook up the right wires and sweat out good connections...you only want to do this once.[/quote]



Great info. Thanks for the tips.

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[xrad]

968Gene: I was expecting Cloud9 to keep his car forever, as we all will.......

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='xrad' post='64762' date='Dec 28 2008, 10:11 AM']968Gene: I was expecting Cloud9 to keep his car forever, as we all will.......[/quote]

That's the plan, although over time I see the car morphing more and more into a track car...

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[xrad]

Hmmmmmm...maybe a turbo??

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