[az968]

I'm planning to install stainless steel brake lines when I redo my brakes shortly. Seems like a lot of different brands of DOT-approved - Troutman, Techna-Fit, RS Barn, Lindsey Racing.  Anyone have a preference recommendation? Aggressive street use, not track.

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[MLB]

Hi, i'm wondering do people mean replacing the entire lengths of the brake lines with stainless steel, or are we just talking about replacing rubber sections with flex stainless sections or something like that ?

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[az968]

Replacing just the existing stock rubber hoses with flexible braided stainless lines, the existing metal lines remain.

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[MLB]

Ok i just ordered the stainless brake line kit and bias valve from RS barn. Claimed to be a complete kit, less expensive than lindsey racing. Sounds like a couple good upgrades for safety as well as performance

After listening to people comment about replacing brake lines, I had shuddered at the thought of running all new steel brake lines through the car. I know how tedious that is and I'm pretty anal about getting the bends just right to match stock install. And buying pre-bent is way too expensive, if even available. This sounds much easier :0)

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[az968]

Let us know how it goes, you are a little ahead of ne.

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[MCL968]

I can't imagine replacing the hard lines, that sounds way too tedious for us OCD types.

 

As I understand it, the advantage to the SS flex lines is that they are lined with Teflon hose, while the stock ones are just reinforced rubber. The rubber expands under pressure, diminishing the positive feel of braking. Further, the rubber degrades, causing the fine black particles that eventually muck up the calipers.

 

With the SS lines you are supposed to experience more positive braking and have to flush the braking system less often. I hope to be doing mine soon as well, so if you learn anything important, please pass it on to the group. I am also curious about the bias valve, specifically how difficult the R and R process is.

 

Thanks,

 

Matt

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[MLB]

I plan to take the car out of storage this weekend, and then theres a lot of work to be done incl WP and rad., and probably alternator rebuild.

But i will report back on brake lines and bias valve installation and function, once i find a suitable giant parking lot with no obstacles

;0)

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[flash]

bias valve R&R is a pain in the butt.  dancing around the windshield washer reservoir sucks.  not enough room in there to really get your hand in there either.  take your time, and get used to the idea of brake fluid all over your arm.

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[az968]

Flash, what bias valving did you suggest a while back, just in case I feel like experiencing that pleasurable experience?

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[flash]

5/33

 

i know i put all the part numbers in a thread here somewhere

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[MLB]

Well I've been reading up on brake bias and proportioning valves, for example the following stop tech article:

http://stoptech.com/technical-support/te...ing-valves


This sounds more like something I am not prepared to mess with. I don't even know for sure what the stock setup is, let alone be convinced that I want to change it to something else.

All Pete's website says about the bias valve he offers is that it changes the stock ratio from 3:1 to 2:1.


I have plenty of work to do on the car without delving into this complex issue.

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[flash]

it's really not that complicated.  the factory valve is a 5:18 ratio.  the one i and many others have used is a 5/33 ratio.  the one some guys use on the track, or when installing big reds up front (but not the rear) is a 5:45 ratio.

 

here are the part numbers for the various valves

 

5/18bar 951 355 305 01

<p style="font-size:12px;font-family:Arial;">5/33bar 928 355 305 01

<p style="font-size:12px;font-family:Arial;">5/45bar 964 355 305 00

<p style="font-size:12px;font-family:Arial;">5/55bar 930 355 305 01

<p style="font-size:12px;font-family:Arial;">5/60bar 965 355 305 01

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[MLB]

Well ok. When you said it was a pain in the butt, that was the feather that pushed me over after reading that stoptech article that seemed designed to dissuade any but the most confident and experienced.

Pete got annoyed when i asked about his install instructions, to get another opinion on the difficulty of the procedure (he thought i was being too "nervous" but as a scientist i just want to learn all i can before starting a project)

So, thanks for the part numbers flash, in case he refuses to sell me his kit :0/

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[flash]

big difference between changing the brake lines, and changing the bias valve in terms of effort.  i was referring to the hesitation to change the valve in terms of concept, not effort.  the concept is simple, and the braking improvement is noticeable, assuming you drive hard enough, and know what to do in terms of any rear lockup.  the actual installation of the valve sucks.  it's a tight spot, somewhat blind, and i hate brake fluid.

 

then, of course, you get to bleed the entire system, so be sure you have a motive power bleeder (you cannot bleed the system without one), and plenty of brake fluid

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[MLB]

Yep, bought the motive a few weeks after i bought the car

Such fun in store!

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[RS Barn]

Glad I'm back.

The 5/33 bias valve is one of the best brake upgrades you can do on a 968. Works on both MO30 and OE calipers. Not just a Track modification and doesn't only work with spirited driving. 

The original bais valve is so front biased. The 5/33 adds more rear braking power, which is great. Car stops quicker with less pedal effort. Also less nose dive which leads to more level corner entry.

Actually seems like firmer sway bars or shocks are on car.

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[Bulti]

Does that valve have a Porsche partnr?

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[968workaholic]

928-355-305-02. There is also a 5/25 valve. I would have to look up the part number though. They are all around $100 or so

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[Bulti]

Nice. Thanks!

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[Bulti]

Question: would the 5/25 be recommended more for street use or the one Pete suggests?

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