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Rear Hatch - Cosmetic Fix
#1

I have read all the info on the delination of the rear hatch. Whilst mine is not perfect, it definately does not need emergency surgery just yet.

The visible cracking of those areas of exposed glass paint does really annoy me however. I would love to see a nice clean line when I walk past the rear hatch.

Has anyone has any success in dealing withthe cosmetic issues of the paint? I am thinking of glass paint or some other solution.

Thanks in advance.

Love the great info on the forum by the way. I have picked up heaps of great advice here. I have only had my car for 7 or 8 months and still really enjoying it - still yet to see another one on the road which I really like.

About to hembark on the air-box/chip project, which I gather has started an obsession with some!! I need to give some attention to the 968 as I have been a little obsessed with my landcruiser of late and dealing with the aftermath of our 5600km trip across the midddle of Australia.

Thanks,

Peter R
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#2

This is a common problem with the hatch. I had mine delaminate and purchased a used one expensive, and had it put on. Unfortunately even though it was good when I brought it this newer one is starting to delaminate already. If you find a fix I would love to try it. I hate the look of the separation on the top of hatch. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]
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#3

This definitely is not a "fix" but im just now taking the hatch almost completely apart and putting it back together little bit by bit... basically im just getting some 3m trim adhesive and gasket material where the hatch is coming away from the glass just to make it watertight again and im either using electrical tape or repainting a clean edge along the trim. the tape would be temporary of course and as far as the possibility of painting, it depends on how much of the old stuff i can get off without damaging anything...
also, as an aside, ive found that all but two of my tabs that hold the trim on to the side of the glass were not connected anymore. there were screwed on behind the hatch but the gasket adhesive material wasn't holding the base on anymore. this was the source of most of my rattling so im re-adhering that as well... i believe little fixes like these are our only option short of buying other hatches that are just as old...
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#4

[quote name='sydneyman2007' date='Apr 13 2010, 12:56 PM' post='91050']
This definitely is not a "fix" but im just now taking the hatch almost completely apart and putting it back together little bit by bit... basically im just getting some 3m trim adhesive and gasket material where the hatch is coming away from the glass just to make it watertight again and im either using electrical tape or repainting a clean edge along the trim. the tape would be temporary of course and as far as the possibility of painting, it depends on how much of the old stuff i can get off without damaging anything...
also, as an aside, ive found that all but two of my tabs that hold the trim on to the side of the glass were not connected anymore. there were screwed on behind the hatch but the gasket adhesive material wasn't holding the base on anymore. this was the source of most of my rattling so im re-adhering that as well... i believe little fixes like these are our only option short of buying other hatches that are just as old...


FYI.

I ended up doing the folowing and am pleased wih the results. My hatch is not too bad, doesn't leak water or whistle. It used to annoy me everytime I walked by the car. Now I don;t even notice which is great.

1. I scratched off the black edging on the inside of the window that was peeled/degraded with a razor. I then masked it up and painted with Krylon Flat Black which adheres to glass. This has come up very well. This all took no more than 1.5 hours as the krylon dries in 10 minutes. Note that it takes some time to properly cure though.

2. I then cut out a strip of 2mm thick black rubber (wide enough to cover the degraded glasss paint) and attached it the outside of the hatch glass. It takes a bit of care to cut in into the curved ends (i made some templates first). Once I had it fitting snugly, I used a Fuller black adhesive silicon and stuck it to the window. I was not happy with my first effort as the silicon was not smooth enough and consequently the the rubber strip looked like it has a case of cellulite! I had to pull it off and applied the silicon with a spatula as thinly as possible. The silicon is good as it can be cleaned up fairly easily if you get it wrong. If I did it again I would even try a drop of Turps or Thinners to the silcon to spead it even easier. Unless you were a 968 fanatic, you would even notice that this is not original. This strip has the added benefit of keeping the sun out and helping with what I suspect is an inevitable degrading of the bond.

3. I have had three goes at the tabs that hold the trim in place. I ws pleased that i put the effort into making a tool to take those slotted nuts off. In the end I have used an exoxy and don't overtighten the little nuts.

4. I also took off my wiper which I think may be a good thing for hatch integrity down the track however that is a purely subjective assessment on my part. I prefer the look without the wiper though.

Best of luck. Hope these thoughts help you!!

Regards,

Peter
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#5

thanks peter, thats a great idea! im going to start doing exactly that as soon as i can properly glue those stupid tabs on the trim again... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img] and agreed on the wiper adding stress to the glass. even if it isn't, i also agree that it looks better without...
Chris
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#6

Peter, I'm confused about your fix. If I understand correctly:
1. you removed all the cracking and peeling black paint,
2. Painted the inside of the glass with with Krylon Flat Black
3. Then you made a rubber strip that sits on the outside of the glass to cover the newly painted black parts?

I don't understand the third step. Did you do this just to protect the glue n the hatch or did the black paint not come out is good as you hoped?


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#7

Hatch delamination is one of the worst things anout these cars. At least on 944's, a hatch can be found for $50. Not the case with a 968. 

These threads may help.
http://www.9xauto.com/.htm

http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=1774

http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtop...hl=Delamination

Delamination search results:
http://www.968forums.com/index.php?act=Sea...2BDelamination 


If worst comes to worse, you could buy a 944 hatch and a replica TRS wing for about the same cost as a used 968 hatch. 
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#8

[quote name='Johannvb' date='Apr 13 2010, 11:08 PM' post='91085']
Peter, I'm confused about your fix. If I understand correctly:
1. you removed all the cracking and peeling black paint,
2. Painted the inside of the glass with with Krylon Flat Black
3. Then you made a rubber strip that sits on the outside of the glass to cover the newly painted black parts?

I don't understand the third step. Did you do this just to protect the glue n the hatch or did the black paint not come out is good as you hoped?


Actually, I hadn't listed these in order of attack as I actually did step three first as it turned out. There were a number of reasons for this.

1. I had read about this idea on other threads and had also seen it done on another car and thought it looked good.
2. I also had some doubts that I could get a clean edge and not damage the internal metal frame but I do feel that this would be do-able with care.
3. One other benefit was that I could get a very straight and clean edge on the strip as opposed to an upside down masking job - you might be better than me at this.
4. I was also interested in the fact that the black paint kept any possible UV out of the area of the bond but this may not have any more than a psychological benefit!! I had noted other comments on this point in the forum. Having to redo the hatch in total is something that I want to avoid if at all possible!!

This turned out so well that I left it at that.


Definately you could simply simply repaint this area as well. I don't see any troubles with painting first with care and, if you are not staisfied, going the strip route. I think which way you go would depend on how clean a finish you could get when you remove the paint (and not scratch the inside frame). Interestingly, the other areas of my hatch that had flaking paint seemed to start at the inside edges and te integrity of the paint improved the closer I got to the frame - so I did not need to worry about the internal frame. On the top it was flaked right up to the glue. I supose this was relative to the amount of UV each area had received over the years. We get plenty of sun over here!!

Hope this makes sense. I must stress that I am absolutely no 968 expert but had read all the posts, seen another example and, once I had found a aerosol paint that seemed to do the trick, jumped in and did this. I am very happy with the results as this was one of the most unsightly and annoying issues issues to me.

Good luck,

Peter

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#9

Mine got to the point that it was separating along the top and funneling in the rain. Noisy too! I found a glass place in Westbury, NY that removed, cleaned and re-set the hatch glass for $300. Looks great.
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#10

I have seen so many posts about the rear hatch that I went out last night to exaimine mine. Not sure what I am looking for but generally it looks ok. Some areas in the corner look like the black paint is not contacting that glass, but they are small.



What causes the delamination to start with:? Are there any steps that may be taken to prevent it?



thanks:rob
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#11

Could someone post a picture of a delaminated one?
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#12

For cosmetics I just solved this today. I had been given a myriad of solutions from masking and painting the inside of the glass. ARE YOU KIDDING? To, you name it. Today I went to a sign maker. He used black vinyl from 3M and ran about a 1" band along the top of the glass on the outside that looks perfectly natural. Then a band on the lower outside beneath the wing that covers that area as well. He charged $45 as I was having some graphics done at the same time. But $100 would have been totally acceptable to me.
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#13

I took the plunge tonight and removed the hatch. I intend to disassemble everything I can and then try to really understand
it, and then reinstall it after re-adhering the glass to the frame. I also have new struts but I have heard that they can
be a problem by being too strong for the frame. Has anyone had any experience with this issue? Any suggestions would be
appreciated.
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#14

I had bought my 968 coupe from RS Barn when Pete was still in business, so he was keeping the name of a glass shop under wraps, so to speak. But now that he is out of the business, you might call him and get the name of the glass shop, that Pete used to fix, my rear glass. It is a great job, and looks great also. Pete told me the window was getting loose and leaking which is why he had it fixed.

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#15

I just did this to tidy up the hatch.

 

 

Cleaned off as much paint as i could with various blades and scrapers then cleaned all the edge of the hatch with panel wipe.

 

Masked up with 3M fine lining tape thats the orange bit, then painted in the what should have been the black bit with Dinitrol Glass Etch Primer

 

[Image: 4BD41FF8-1BDE-48ED-B9BC-E017CDB48569_zps4pkznenb.jpg]

 

The end result

 

[Image: E62231E0-8336-47CA-AE23-733A629A3CEC_zps8fmabtcm.jpg]

 

If the hatch frame has started to seperate away from the glass then thats a whole new bag of onions

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#16

I was making decent though difficult progress in removing the glass from the frame. I was 5/8's completed and I shattered

the glass. I understand why it happened but did not recognize it at the time. I obviously need a replacement. Is it possible to use a 944 glass? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Now this will give me time to sand and paint the car. It is red and pink. Thank you for any help.

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#17

the glass is the same I do believe

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#18

Glass is the same. Removing it can be tricky. I found the propane torch method easier than trying to cut it out. Use the torch to heat the frame until the adhesive starts to  smoke. Then use a wood tongue depressor or plastic to separate the frame from the glass. Work your way around the frame until your donor 944 glass is out of the frame. Then the fun starts. I used paint remover to get rid of the old glass primer. It takes 5-6 coats waiting the recommended time before the old black primer is gone. You can use a razor blade to speed it up. While we are on the subject, never use a razor blade dry on safety glass. The risk of scratching the glass is way to high. Even a slight scratch will create a stress riser in the glass. It may last forever or break within days. Always use a liquid to "lubricate" the glass and blade. To create the black surround I used Dow Betaprime  5504G primer. Its made for all common substrates and is extremely UV resistant. Unlike the original product causing the separation issues. When you are halfway done, the glass will go from this,    

To something like this-

 

   

 

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#19

Thank you guys. I looked at two 944's and was nearly certain the glass is the same. Thank you for the confirmation. I also appreciate the torch idea. That had not occurred to me at all. I will let you all know what happens. Thanks again.
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#20

If I recall correctly, the hole in the glass for the wiper motor shaft on the 944 is smaller than the 968 glass. Other than that the glass are the same.
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